Lost windows

I've used epoxy in a similar manner.  I had a large resin model of a space ship.  The windshield panes were just molded in recesses, rather deep and large.  I painted them black, and when dry, carefully poured epoxy into the recesses.  After it cured, I had very nice windows with black behind them and it worked fine, and looked natural.  Had to be real careful pouring the epoxy so as not to overrun the recesses.  That was the hardest part.

What kind of epoxy did you use, Don?  I don't think I've ever had any that dried clear.

It used to be that most dried clear, or with a slight amber color.  Now, it seems like more and more are filled with fillers and dry gray.  Anyway, this stuff is JB Weld Clear.  Having a hard time myself finding the clear.  I don't like the plunger container of the JB Weld, but as that type goes, it is not that bad.

Why put up with all the fuss in using epoxy ?  The mixing, the hard to apply viscosity etc.

I've been usuing Testors clear glue/window maker and love the ease of use and results.

These windows are too large for the Testors window stuff.  For larger windows, even if you can bridge the window, it sags as it dries. I could try putting the tape on the back like I did with the epoxy.

However, I find another problem with the Testors windows. I find them a bit too fragile for good masking.  Ordinarily I put a little piece of tape on the back to prevent paint from getting inside fuselage, and wait till the painting is done before applying the windows with that stuff.  Then the problem is getting the masking tape off and out of the fuselage with the model complete.  With the epoxy, it is firm and strong enough to mask, and I pulled the tape on the inside off before I closed up the fuselage.

OH I see.  TY for the explaination, this old dog is still learning new tricks thanks to FSM :)