Gluing with shaky hands

i live in lake elmo.  eastern suburbs

i live in st paul

Thanks for the tip

 LOL shipwreck. easier said than done

When I model, I just hold my breath!

I've got a "wrist pad," from the computer department of Office Depot, on the edge of my bench. Makes modeling much easier on the wrists and forearms.

I also keep a few blocks- odd size pieces of wood handy as hand props.  With the model sitting on bench surface, sometimes on a large model the working hand has to be higher than is comfortable, and my arm is cantilevered away from body.  So I will put a block of wood on bench surface so that my wrist and forearm can rest on block.  Now only my wrist muscles are involved, not arm/shoulder muscles.  Try to reduce the distance between your fingers and whatever ties you to the world.

I'll offer a suggestion that may seem silly, but as I've watched other folks I've been surprised at how many aren't conscious of it. Whenever you're gluing, or painting, or doing anything else with parts, find a way to rest the part on the bench. Holding it in one hand while applying the glue or paint with the other mathematically doubles the "shake factor."

Also, brace your hands in such a way as to minimize the number and size of the muscles you're using. The tiny muscles in your fingers can do a much better, steadier job of gluing and painting than the big ones attached to your elbow. So get into the habit of resting your forearm on the bench, and let your fingers do the work.

I once watched a jeweler at work at his bench. When I walked into the room I thought I was talking to a man who was four feet tall. He was sitting on a stool that brought the bench top even with his elbows, so he didn't have to bend his back for hours at a stretch. I don't suggest that approach for model builders, but resting your wrists on the bench is a good habit.

Like I said, all that may seem ludicrously obvious. But I've been surprised at how many people don't know it.

f86saber9

hey don where in Minnesota you live?

Coon Rapids- northwest suburb/exurb of Twin Cities.  Belong to about four modeling clubs in area.

thanks everyone for your great suggestions. I live in a large metro area and I am wondering where are all the hobby shops. I am amazed to find just 2 worthy shops. micheals and hobby lobby outnumber them .

hey don where in Minnesota you live?

Chuck, one of the advantages of the ruling pen is that you don't ever have to deal with the end clogging shut. It will still sometimes get plastic glued to the two inner surfaces, but, when it does, you make sure it is empty of cement, and draw a folded sanding film through it from the "hilt" towards the "blade tips", and snap, just a couple of passes and it is clean. (kind of like a honing motion and speed)

Lol, you do have to hold it correctly, though,,,,,,,,when I was first taught to cement with one, I hadn't drawn with one beforehand, so I didn't know not to hold it by the "wrong sides", but, only by the solid sides,,,,,I had old fashioned Testors liquid cement going down my fingers toward my wrist. Capillary action works at all times, even when you aren't ready for it.

Rex

Touch 'N Flow works very well for me, although there is a learning curve, and you have to hold your tongue just right….When it works, it's great.

A drafting pen is how we used to do it back before the Touch-n-Flow days.  I always thought a pen point would work too, but, I never tried it. It would seem to give the advantage of carrying less cement than what fills a drafting pen. Calligraphy kits are still popular, I think. So a Hobby Lobby or Michael's, etc, should carry those.  (show your age and ask for a "Nib and Handle",,,,,just to get the store clerk muddled, lol)

Sometimes a drafting compass comes with an ink point that swaps out with the lead holder. You could buy one of those compasses, swap out the ink point and put a steel pin in there, and wind up with a cement applicator and a pair of "poor man's dividers" all at once.

Rex

In any cases where I can apply the glue from inside I do so.  Hull halves of ships are accessible this way before deck is put on. I have done airplanes where a lot of half seam is accessible from wing opening.  I sometimes wonder if an old (non-fountain) pen handle and pen point could be used.  One would have to dip pen in solvent many times to do a very long seam, but it still may be doable.  I also have thought of a drafting pen. I should have one around, but have been unable to find it lately.