Using oil paints as a filter - question about decals

redryder

Thanks guys. How long do I have to wait for the protective acrylic coat to dry/cure before attempting the oil wash?

Generally do you apply washes and filter before or after applying decals?

i use artist oils all the time over acrylic paint and decals with no clear coat and have no problem. my decals usually have a SOLV SET on top but that's it. i do pin washes i filter the entire vehicle in multiple coats and no problem with TAMIYA, MMA, POLYSCALE. just finished a 4 color filter on a 1/76 MK-1 FEMALE and am finishing up a 1/72 BTR-80.

on a 1/72 i will base coat in the morning, silly putty  and camo coat in the evening and start oils the next morning. no lift off or bleed through problems. i do prime everything with ACE NOW rattle can primer

Apply Future or a clear acrylic varnish to seal the decals.  The white spirit doesn't attack an acrylic paint.

Let me throw in my .02.

I don't like using rattle cans cause they don't offer the precise control an AB offers but you can decant Krylon paint into a container then use it in your AB. I like using the Krylon decanted black primers.

I recall a discussion about the "acrylic Lacquer" and I believe it was described as a lacquer (solvent) based and not a straight acrylic like Future or MM Clear acrylic flat. Not certain on this one.

You cannot use a solvent wash over enamels as it will be lifted by the solvent wash so a barrier coat has to be applied. I usually apply Future to gloss up the model for decals and to prepare it for oil paint pin washes. The pin washes will easily flow into panel lines, molded louvers and screens etc creating a sharp tone. I let this dry for a day or so then shoot clear flat acrylic to prepare the surface for color modulation and washes. The flat finish gives the oil paint teeth to grab on and create subtle color variations. If you do this step over a gloss coat, the oil wash will slide off and settle into the sharp details and recesses.

I apply the decals then do the weathering and washes so that the markings match the overall finish. Hope this helps.

I've seen Krylon spray cans in the shops which claim to be "Acrylic lacquer" based top coats. Can I use those as undercoats for oil washes?

Depends upon what you use as to how long you should wait.

If an acrylic like Tamiya clear gloss, 24 hrs should be enough. If its a lacquer base, perhaps 48 to be sure.

I always apply filters and pin washes after decals (and over a clear gloss coat).

Thanks guys. How long do I have to wait for the protective acrylic coat to dry/cure before attempting the oil wash?

Generally do you apply washes and filter before or after applying decals?

I've dabbled with artists oils diluted with mineral spirits. As Tojo and hypertex said, you do need a dissimilar base beneath it (acrylic). It will not only protect the decals, but also the underlying paint (if it is non-acrylic).

I believe you will find that the barrier coat is surprisingly effective.

Yes, a clear coat will protect the decals. It doesn't have to be gloss, though. Flat will work just as well. Your choice. I use MM acrylic clear flat myself. As always, run some tests on some scrap.

Chris

Yes for sure,you would want to protect the decals before beginning any weathering process.iI think an acrylic clear would not be affected by oils.