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I need to know what techniques work best to make plastic look like scorched, burned metal. Specifically, I'm working on a model of a wrecked diesel locomotive that I'd like to make look fire scarred. From what I've seen of prototype photos, it looks like the paint burns off, leaving relatively shiny sheet metal exposed, with smoke smudges around the edges of the exposed areas, but I'm not finding a huge number of such photos. I did find one photo-- which I now can't locate again for the life of me-- on which the surface resembled something that I can only characterize as a charred, pitted barbecue grill. I'd love to recreate that! But I'm open to all suggestions/techniques. Thoughts?
Depends on how the metal was finished before the fire. For painted metal, it simply turns black and a fine coat of flat black applied with an airbrush works. Usually it does not burn completely off- it carbonizes and sticks to the metal. If you have an old pan you don't want any more, put a little cooking oil (very little) in it, and put it on the stove with the heat turned up to max, and let it sit for ten minutes or so. Now you have a good sample of what it should look like :-) Keep a small fire extinquisher or package of baking soda handy.
For bare or chrome plated metal, it is harder. Heat causes rapid oxidation and thick oxide layers build up, creating thin, translucent coatings of various colors depending on the metal. For instance, hot chrome takes on a rainbow stain going from violet through blue to red rose. For some reason, non of the metals seem to take on a green cast, though.
Alclad sells a number of shades useful for burnt metal.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
You really need to Google a modeler named "Scratchmod" he used to be here, but runs a few of his own forums.Rob is without a doubt the King of Destruction.Check out some of his work and techniques,I'm sure you will be impressed and pick something up.
Once metal has been burned, it usually oxidizes pretty quickly. Especially ferrous metal such as iron and steel. Aluminum has a tendency to melt into slag or turn to powder depending upon the thickness of the original item. Google some images of knocked out tanks for some ideas of burned out stuff. As far as techniques for recreating that look go, I am as much in awe of the modelers who can make it happen and the dark about them as well...
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
I found scratchmod-- he has his own site, by the way-- and his work is indeed amazing. Unfortunately, the stuff I found deals more with damage from rust and age rather than fire. However, I DID find, over on Youtube, a video called Painting Burnt Iron which replicates the sort of "rainbow" effect of hot fire on steel. I'll reiterate the steps for anyone who might have an interest, but you should go watch the video. Basically, you start with a base coat of silver or chrome or whatever color you imagine the raw steel to be. Then, starting where the fire was least hot, spray a so-thin-its-almost-translucent coat of a bright brass color. Where it burned hotter, spray a similar coat of translucent violet, and where it burned hottest, a coat of cyan. It's an incredible look and now I have to go track down these colors (I mean, seriously, besides mixing it with something else, who would have expected a use for VIOLET?).
I've had some success with those Tamiya weathering powders that come in burnt orange and burnt blue. I did a UFO model with scorch marks from re-entry that came out decent. Wish I had pics of it.
Chris
"Some say the alien didn't die in the crash. It survived and drank whiskey and played poker with the locals 'til the Texas Rangers caught wind of it and shot it dead."
dirkpitt77 I've had some success with those Tamiya weathering powders that come in burnt orange and burnt blue. I did a UFO model with scorch marks from re-entry that came out decent. Wish I had pics of it. Chris
I've also been experimenting with the Tamiya weathering powders in those colors and agree that with work it comes out pretty nice. I've found that they trick to using them is to use very small amounts and overlay the colors.
On the Bench: Lots of unfinished projects!
I tried the Youtube technique I described above, with light sprays of dark blue , violet, and brass over steel (or, in my case, Reaper Miniature True Silver, which is what I had on hand) and WOW! It really does give the effect of metal exposed to extreme heat. And that's with just tube acrylics from Michaels thinned with windshield wash fluid.
What I've used in the past is a paste product from the hardware store , but , the fellow said people use it for antiquing stuff .
I got brass , steel and smoke and rubbed them on a F-4-Js cans, in 1/32 scale and as I added each color they came out great . The product is called Rub-N- Buff . I have also used it to metalize aircraft .You buff till you are cross-eyed and then clear-coat All I could say , at the time was WOW. the Antique Silver and Chrome worked amazingly well .
I actually use Rub n Buff all the time. I think it's great stuff. My first experiment with the Youtube technique was over RnB Antique Silver. My. next one was over paint, though. I didn't want to wait 24 hrs. for the RnB to dry!
Hi ;
I have found that as you rub , Gently , I might add , then keep it under a warm , Not Hot ! Light it sets up sooner ! Then from there on , till you clear-coat it wear Cotton Gloves !
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