SEARCH FINESCALE.COM

Enter keywords or a search phrase below:

Weathering With Oils v Acrylics

10319 views
10 replies
1 rating 2 rating 3 rating 4 rating 5 rating
  • Member since
    May 2012
  • From: Pennsylvania
Weathering With Oils v Acrylics
Posted by pilotjohn on Friday, February 13, 2015 11:03 AM

All;

I have been reading a lot about weathering with oils and reading the book from Mike Rinaldi titled Tank Art.  I have just a tube of oil in burnt umber for doing some panel washes but lots of acylic colors.  I was wondering if anyone had tried using the acrylics and some drying retarder to do a similar kind of thing with the filters and rendering?  I don't want to have to buy a lot of oil tubes if my acrylic stash can do the trick.

Just curious as to what knkowledge and experience you all may have.  Thanks!

John

  • Member since
    March 2010
  • From: MN
Posted by Nathan T on Friday, February 13, 2015 11:45 AM

Oil paints are king!! Don't need a whole lot of colors, mainly earth tones, black, and white.

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by JMorgan on Friday, February 13, 2015 3:17 PM

Acrylics don't spread as easily as oils and even with retarder they are not as good.

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Friday, February 13, 2015 5:01 PM

When it comes to washes, nothing beats oils in my experience.  You only need a few colors and they will last forever.  

Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Friday, February 13, 2015 6:07 PM

Yup. My few attempts at washes with acrylics have not turned out well, except in a few cases of flesh tones. In the past I mostly used enamels for their superior properties in washes, and recently stepped up to oils. You can't beat oils.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, February 14, 2015 9:03 AM

There is a third alternative to oils and acrylics.  Enamels can be used for washes and dry brushing.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: East Coast
Posted by CarnivourousDonut on Sunday, February 22, 2015 10:05 PM

As someone who is about to embark on trying oils for the first time, I"m having a difficult time finding a step by step (or so, more or less) guide on *how* to use them...

I will be weathering 1/35 tanks.

So correct me here please:

A dab of the oil in the right place.

a damp (with paint thinner) brush applied to the oil dab, and brushed downward (or in the direction where it needs to go)

Wait for it to dry and then clearcoat it

Correct? Wrong?

Let's rattle the cage, crack the machine. Let 'em know who you are, shine to be seen.

  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by AndrewW on Monday, February 23, 2015 9:32 AM

What you are describing above is a dot filter.  I've had the best success when I've applied the paint to a bit of cardboard as a palette and given it about ten, fifteen minutes to soak away the excess oil, thereby leaving mostly pigment.  Next, a small dot, and as you say, a lightly damp 'thinner' paint brush.  I personally dab the 'thinner' paint brush out on a paper towel and then test against the back of my hand.  When it leaves only a slight amount of sheen, I gently wipe, as I don't want to remove the oil paint, but smear it.  I use a large fan brush for this purpose.  

If you are looking for a pin wash, or panel line wash, I again set the oil paint on cardboard, allowing the excess oil to soak away.  I mix the pigment with turpenoid until I have something about the consistency of a cup of coffee, and then apply to panel lines, letting the capillary action carry the mixture along the lines.  In other words, a light hand.  Excess can be wiped away with turpenoid as described above.  

It all depends upon the look you are aiming to achieve, and this is only my technique, I'm sure everybody has their own.  I'm also sure you'll have to find what works for you.  Personally, I use both techniques over a gloss coat, especially the pin wash.  As I'm still experimenting with dot filtering, I use it over a gloss only in case I make a mistake, it's easy to clean away.  This being said, I think dot filtering 'bites' better into a semi gloss or matte coat, I'm just a little scared to try that.  

Life is hard, it's even harder when you're stupid - John Wayne.


  • Member since
    February 2011
Posted by Hokey on Monday, February 23, 2015 6:07 PM

After applying these - filters and washes - how long do u wait to "wipe"?

  • Member since
    August 2012
Posted by AndrewW on Monday, February 23, 2015 10:16 PM

Washes, I wait 20 minutes or so, the drier it becomes, the more the excess will 'streak' for me, which can look good on aircraft.  Filters, I start wiping right away.  You don't want that to dry and stain.  You also want to watch what sort of finish you're working over  (enamels, acryls) and do a test piece first.

Life is hard, it's even harder when you're stupid - John Wayne.


JOIN OUR COMMUNITY!

Our community is FREE to join. To participate you must either login or register for an account.

SEARCH FORUMS
FREE NEWSLETTER
By signing up you may also receive reader surveys and occasional special offers. We do not sell, rent or trade our email lists. View our Privacy Policy.