Creating A waterline Guide

That makes no sense.

Bill

Bill ;

I don't know why you say that . If you have a model and subject it to the same treatment with Talcum Powder on the water , it's essentially the same thing . Plus , with black chalk dust it's easier to see !

    The powder is drawn by static electricity to the line between water's surface tension and it's own properties letting the powder stick temporarily !

Prove it !!! LOL. Always explanation begots understanding.

Hey Now :

      I don't know about you , but this method with Talc was one I picked up in an old model ship book about thirty years back or longer .Works well ,

   I can't prove it until you try it .That's the proof !

Your idea makes perfect sense tank builder.

OK maybe Im missingt something here. So you put the model in water with the black chalk take out of the water and I can see how that would mark the waterline. So now you have a wet model with black chalk on it what do you do next? I have marked waterlines for along time and never had to put the model in water. I dont get it.

Bill

Oh I've heard of this one. But it doesn't really work unless the sides are more or less vertical, like a modern oil tanker I guess. Under the stern counter you'll only be approximate, at best.

The craziest version of this problem I ever encountered: the Russian ship Borodino. She had draft markings in Cyrillic, and they ran under the stern not only correctly spaced vertically, in other words farther apart on the surface from each other, but the number got taller too so it looked "right from a horizontal viewing. In a small boat I guess. Tried everything I could think of, but gave up.

Tanks I think you posted this about three days too early.

Bill ;

Oh my my friend .You gently set it aside and let it air dry .Then take a pencil and put dashes along the line .Wash the chalk off and you've marked the waterline for taping . With a set of pencil marks to guide you .

I get it

Bill

Hello!

While I only had to mark a waterline once, some time ago, I found a method that works and gets you a nice pencilled line without water - it works like follows:

You put your ship on an even surface, like a table top. You jack the ship so that it sits even, with the waterline parallel to the table top. then you take a block of a hard material and lay a pencil on top of that block, so that the tip of the pencil is exactly on the height of the waterline. Then you trace around the hull by moving the block along with the pencil - and it can be done in about 10 minutes - the jacking up of the hull included.

Hope it helps - good luck with your projects and have a nice day

Paweł

I've read about that "wet" method of waterline marking several times. I've never tried it, but I see some problems with it. To begin with, the water and the model have to be sitting absolutely still.

I've got a cheap little gadget called an Accu-scribe, which I bought at Woodcraft. It simply holds a pencil at whatever height and angle you set. To each his/her own, but I can't see an advantage to the wet method over the Accu-scribe.

There is a piece of wisdom in there. When marking a waterline (I use the "dry" method) a series of dashes beats a line. Then let the tape take a somewhat natural curve.

I'm not sure why something so simple has to be made so difficult.  Pick one of these up for $15 and be done with it....

https://www.grizzly.com/products/Surface-Gauges-4-7-/H2712

or from any number of other suppliers.  If you're modeling ships, I can't see how you couldn't have one of these in your collection of tools.

Paul

Yes, and for holding the ship I have one of those machinist vices.

When there's a keel.

As soon as the hull is painted, I switch to pedestals.

All these work , Fellas !

     I was just passing on something I was told about .I use a home-made hull scriber most of the time .This chalk or powder method is how I did it years ago and forgot all about .

      I have a special jig than holds the ship level on all planes and then I lock it in place , scribe and paint away . It's a jig I made from LEGO components .      T.B.