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Chrisk-k I use odorless turpenoid (Mona Lisa brand) for oil washes on surfaces painted with Tamiya acrylics, with or without Future. I've never had an issue.
I use odorless turpenoid (Mona Lisa brand) for oil washes on surfaces painted with Tamiya acrylics, with or without Future. I've never had an issue.
i use that too on Tamiya, MMA,, Vallejo, ComArt (Iwata a/b acrylics) without any barrier and never had an issue with any of them.
Никто не Забыт (No one is Forgotten)Ничто не Забыто (Nothing is Forgotten)
G Morrison , could you tell us the name of the gear made by weber please
GMorrison biased by the knowledge that I am creating brown juice on the surface of the model.
biased by the knowledge that I am creating brown juice on the surface of the model.
Sounds like the pilot had a big ol' wad of "chaw" goin'. He needed some place to spit!
Gary
"All you mugs need to get busy building, and post pics!"
I know that, I was teasing you. I am of the dry brush and pin wash variety too. My attempts at filters get biased by the knowledge that I am creating brown juice on the surface of the model.
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
GMorrison Ahh Don, I see you haven't yet discovered the new world of "filters". Still trying to figure it out myself.
Ahh Don, I see you haven't yet discovered the new world of "filters". Still trying to figure it out myself.
I was referring to pin washes. To me, pin washes and filters are two different things. I have not used dot filters yet- I either airbrush a translucent/transparent coat of different colors to get the effect, or sometimes I get the effect with dry brushing. But to me a pin wash is to create thin lines, not large areas.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
Maybe ya'll could gimme a definition (or example) of 1. Wash; 2. Pin Wash. 3. Filter?
Maybe you are applying too much wash. Try to get it just down in the crack/line. If I do it right I do not need to wipe anything off- the wash stays in the panel line.
One factor I did not see mentioned is how long you are letting your coat of future dry, and more importantly, cure, before you start your oil wash process. I find Future (or its current derivative, Pledge Floor Care) takes longer to cure than other acrylic top-coat products. I personally use Vallejo satin varnish before utilizing an oil wash and after it fully cures I have no issues with mineral spirits lifting any of the varnish or the paint underneath. I let my Vallejo varnish cure overnight before hitting it with oil/mineral spirits. I have found Future sometimes takes up to 3 days to fully cure and thus safe to apply the oils. -Len
Ditto that. I buy stuff made by a company named Weber. Over Future, no problem.
Iwata HP-CS | Iwata HP-CR | Iwata HP-M2 | H&S Evolution | Iwata Smart Jet + Sparmax Tank
You're very weclome Bro. I'm so glad to be a part of your success but I am just "paying it forward" relaying the info I have received from the many excellent modelers on here.
Happy modeling.
Jay
I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.
I'm not sure I reading you right so I'm just guessing, but maybe the oil wash wasn't dry enough. I let my oils dry at least 2 days, often more b4 anything else is done to the model. I schedule the application of oils when I know the SWMBO has a hefty honey do list coming up so she busies me up with something else and I am not tempted to work on my model prematurely .
Or maybe it's your oil thinner, I got advice from the good people here and use Terpenoid, an oderless turpentine, and not had any problems with it. I don't think it's the Future.
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