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TIP: Using #0000 Steel Wool on models

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  • Member since
    July 2008
  • From: Summerville, SC
Posted by jeffpez on Friday, August 14, 2015 5:25 PM

From doing some woodworking it's cautioned that you shouldn't use a water based clear finish after using steel wool because you'll get rust spots. I assume the sdame holds true for plastic. I'd aoid using it.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, August 14, 2015 9:10 AM

There are such good rust colors available in hobby paints it seems like a lot of effort to make your own rust.  Also, for weathering powder, real rouge is basically just rust.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    April 2004
  • From: UK
Posted by Jon_a_its on Thursday, August 13, 2015 7:03 AM

plasticjunkie

 Sprue-ce Goose

Chrisk-k
Don Stauffer

I have used it a few times.  The problem I have with it is that the tiny pieces of steel wool that break off- a sort of steel "dust" seems to be harder to remove than ordinary sanding dust.

Absolutely. IME, micro pieces of steel wool are more difficult to remove than sanding dust. .............. Moreover, steel wool debris seem to stick to the surface more strongly than sanding dust.   

 What about a thorough rinsing in a water bath?
Let the debris settle and let oxidation turn the debris into a "rust" sludge that can be filtered and dried for eventual use in small amounts on armor builds?
Is that feasible? 
  

I have tried making that soup and it did no go well at all.

 

 
Distilled water, a bunch of 0000 wire wool, stir/breakup/polish a bit of steel/etc. main point is to collect water/sludge in a jar & allow to dry.
 
Genuine 1:1 rust, I added it to red colour to paint exhausts with, but not much else.

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  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, August 12, 2015 8:34 PM

Sprue-ce Goose
 
Chrisk-k

 

 
Don Stauffer

I have used it a few times.  The problem I have with it is that the tiny pieces of steel wool that break off- a sort of steel "dust" seems to be harder to remove than ordinary sanding dust.

 

 

Absolutely. IME, micro pieces of steel wool are more difficult to remove than sanding dust. .............. Moreover, steel wool debris seem to stick to the surface more strongly than sanding dust.   

 

 

What about a thorough rinsing in a water bath?
Let the debris settle and let oxidation turn the debris into a "rust" sludge that can be filtered and dried for eventual use in small amounts on armor builds?
Is that feasible? 
 

 

I have tried making that soup and it did no go well at all.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Wednesday, August 12, 2015 5:47 PM

Chrisk-k

 

 
Don Stauffer

I have used it a few times.  The problem I have with it is that the tiny pieces of steel wool that break off- a sort of steel "dust" seems to be harder to remove than ordinary sanding dust.

 

 

Absolutely. IME, micro pieces of steel wool are more difficult to remove than sanding dust. .............. Moreover, steel wool debris seem to stick to the surface more strongly than sanding dust.   

 

What about a thorough rinsing in a water bath?
Let the debris settle and let oxidation turn the debris into a "rust" sludge that can be filtered and dried for eventual use in small amounts on armor builds?
Is that feasible? 
  • Member since
    November 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Monday, August 10, 2015 11:08 AM

Yes 0000 steel wool will polish the plastic. I just hate that leftover fuzz that is anoying to remove as it goes everywhere so if you blow it be careful with your eyes. I've heard that  bronze wool is even better because it won't leave the microscopic scratches that steel wool leaves.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    December 2011
Posted by Chrisk-k on Friday, August 7, 2015 1:47 PM

Don Stauffer

I have used it a few times.  The problem I have with it is that the tiny pieces of steel wool that break off- a sort of steel "dust" seems to be harder to remove than ordinary sanding dust.

Absolutely. IME, micro pieces of steel wool are more difficult to remove than sanding dust. If you use tack cloth (or something similar) to remove steel wool debris, you'll end up with a ton of micro sratches on the surface (i.e., steel destroys plastic). Moreover, steel wool debris seem to stick to the surface more strongly than sanding dust.   

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  • Member since
    May 2006
  • From: Chapin, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Friday, August 7, 2015 12:46 PM

Don, I have a package of 0000 on my work bench. I usuallly forget to use it (then I forget a lot of things lately). Steel wool works great, but it is a good idea to crank up your airbrush and hit the model with it before adding paint!

On the Bench:

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  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, August 7, 2015 9:14 AM

I have used it a few times.  The problem I have with it is that the tiny pieces of steel wool that break off- a sort of steel "dust" seems to be harder to remove than ordinary sanding dust.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    September 2003
  • From: AandF in the Badger State
Posted by checkmateking02 on Tuesday, August 4, 2015 2:42 PM

Nice tip!  Thanks.

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    August 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Tuesday, August 4, 2015 12:57 PM

Good tip.  You ought to send this one in to the Mag.   They'll pay you 15 bucks for it when published.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    January 2014
  • From: Nampa, Idaho
Posted by jelliott523 on Tuesday, August 4, 2015 8:51 AM

Sounds like a great tip, I'll have to give it a shot as well.

On the Bench:  Lots of unfinished projects!  Smile

  • Member since
    September 2005
  • From: Illinois: Hive of Scum and Villany
Posted by Sprue-ce Goose on Tuesday, August 4, 2015 7:35 AM

I'll give it a try.

Thanks for the tip ! Big Smile

  • Member since
    June 2014
TIP: Using #0000 Steel Wool on models
Posted by USAFASME7 on Tuesday, August 4, 2015 7:27 AM
I wanted to share a technique I kind of stumbled upon last year. #0000 Steel Wool (#000 = "Four-Ought"). A bag of 12 pads costs $4.00 and will last a year or more through countless models. I use the steel wool to smooth finished seams, after putty, sprue-goo, etc have been scraped / sanded away. The steel wool actually POLISHES some plastics to the point where you can see minor surface defects when held against the glare of your light source. Obviously it's not going to polish clear canopies, but could be used as a mid-grade abrasive in the seam removal process. It's also good for gently rubbing along all the edges of ALL model parts before or after assembly; especially where flash has been cut / scraped / sanded away. Since it conforms to any contour, it's the perfect sanding medium for a final finish. I also use it to LIGHTLY rub the entire model down before primer. Everyone knows that shiny surfaces don't hold paint as well as microscopically scuff-sanded surfaces do. It knocks the shine off of the parts so to speak. Anyway, I thought I'd share the tip. The guys in my model club had never heard of it. Just be sure and flow all the tiny steel wool particles off of / out of the model prior to painting.

--Rob

Glue Sniffer since 1977

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