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Tips and techniques for fine sanding

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  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 23, 2004 12:53 AM
Use a hole puncher cut out small disks of sand paper. Take the sandpaper disk use contact cement to glue it to a pencil eraser. Gets in tight spots and is very very useful.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 1:06 PM
I have been gluing fine sandpaper to balsa sticks but it is still very hard to get into tight spots. Inside of gun straps without breaking is tough. YES, that really SUCKS to think you're ready to paint only to discover you have alot more sanding to do! Plus my figures I make are just over 3" so you can see every little flaw. I wonder how the professional model sculptors do it.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: Green Bay, WI USA
Posted by echolmberg on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 12:09 PM
I check my manliness at the door and go into a woman's beauty supply store at the mall and grab half a dozen of those buffing sticks. Some have three grits and some have four. They're pretty flexible so you don't have too great of a worry about creating flat spots. When I use the fine polishing side it really buffs the plastic to a high gloss!

I see you are working on figures. Sometimes when I need to sand in a small or narrow area on my figures I'll cut a strip of sandpaper about 1/4" or 1/8" wide and sand it with that.

Hope it helps.

Eric

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 7:32 AM
I forgot to mention that, for sanding, I use all sorts of media: Various grits of sandpaper (look in the automotive section of a local dept store for super fine grits)
Emery boards or sanding sticks, found in the cosmetic -makeup section, very small thin metal files, that can be found in a arts & crafts type store, by the BEADS section (while there, pick up a set of the wire cutters, they work just like the more expensive specialty "Sprue Nips" at a third of the cost)

My most favorite are the thin sanding sponges. They are flexible and let you retain round shapes while sanding. The virtually eliminate flat spotting.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, March 16, 2004 7:25 AM
For ALL of the small seams that I have to fill, I use Testors glue (in the stand-up container). I assemble the parts normally, then sand (lightly ) Afterward, I will wipe the area off with a slightly damp cloth. This removes the dust particles, embedded in the seam and gives you a better look at your work. Just blowing off the part doesn't get it all out of the seam.

If there is still a seam visable, I will run a very thin line of the glue on the seam. I will let dry overnight, then sand.

For larger seams or gaps), I use Squadron's White putty.

It sounds like a lot of work but, as you said, it makes for a much better looking piece.

There's nothing worse than, getting that first coat of paint sprayed on your build and discovering a seam line in plain sight Sad [:(]
  • Member since
    December 2003
Posted by Enzo_Man on Monday, March 15, 2004 12:18 AM
You could take a toothpick and glue some fine sandpaper around it and go at it. Just an idea. Maybe it'll work ??
Aerodynamics is for people who can't build engines.
  • Member since
    November 2005
Tips and techniques for fine sanding
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, March 13, 2004 11:06 AM
I'll post this here since I really didnt get any response on painting section. I make my own military/history figures with a hard epoxy material and they are just alittle over 3". It would seem though that sanding IS the most important part involved (Damn, I hate sanding) Without it you cannot expect to have a nice looking figure, or a nice paint job and do not realize it until you prime! Does anyone have any tips or special tools for final sanding???
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