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First step weathering - Armor (mostly)

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  • Member since
    May 2014
First step weathering - Armor (mostly)
Posted by Ceithearn on Tuesday, December 15, 2015 7:13 PM

After many years off, really enjoying building kits again. The goal with each kit is to "one up" each build. The quality and paint on the builds is going fairly well and I would like to begin weathearing. 

Have read many of the posts here, watched Youtube videos and reviewed various product pages. Frankly I am quite nervous about ruining hours worth of work and confused by all the options. Looking at a basic wash or adding mud/dust (armor) to start.

With so many products and techniques out, is there a simple wash I could mix up, dry brush some "dust" on a tank, or apply a glue/dirt mix as mud? 

This is quite an open ended question but one or two simple technique that provides a good result would really add to the enjoyment and provide further inspiration.

Input is greatly appreciated.

 

 

 

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, December 16, 2015 9:08 AM

The simplest weathering technique I know is to dust the lower portions of the model with skin colored talcom powder, available at drug stores.  There are often several tints of skin tone available. It represents dust quite well.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    January 2013
Posted by jibber on Wednesday, December 16, 2015 11:18 AM

A simple oil based wash takes it to another level. There are many pre made but I like to make my own, this way I can make it as heavy or light as I want. 

Heres a simple technique, all you need is Turpenoid and an oil paint. I like to use Abteilung black or umber, they get into recessed areas and show them off better than lighter colors.

1. Pour some Turpenoid into a small cup or container.

2. With a tube of a decent oil base paint, take a smal amount at first and mix it into the Turpenoid. Adjust it accorningly as you like. About the only thing you could do wrong is make it to strong, in the area of 80/20, 90/10 or so. 

3. You can either pin wash this mixture on specific parts or do the entire vehicle. 

You can repeat step 3 if you want but know that a second or even a third wash will really darken it. 95% of the time one time is enough. If you get some wash in an area you want removed, simply get a clean brush and use straight Turpenoid on it until youre satisfied. 

This is very simple and a fun step and decals actually go on easier after this step.

Any questions please ask. Try it on a scrap part first and "Just Do It" its easy and have fun.

Terry 

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Ceithearn on Wednesday, December 16, 2015 11:23 AM

Thank you. Will try that on the Panther, Cromwell, perhaps both if goes well.

Two queries regarding a wash:

1. To make my own wash would thinner and acrylic be ok? Say a black or brown and thinner. Or, is it necessary/recommended to use oil/enamel? Again, there is so much information out....

2. Some posts mention a clear coat of future before the wash, some say the clear coat after. Does it really matter? Results better one way or the other?

 

 

  • Member since
    April 2015
Posted by LrdSatyr8 on Thursday, December 17, 2015 7:13 AM

I like to do something I call the "Dirty Thinner" method.  We all have a bottle of thinner we've cleaned our brushes in.  Well... using that dirty nasty thinner as a wash works really well.  Its thin enough to create a wash, and all the colors that you've used (assuming you started with a clean bottle of thinner) are combined in the thinner to tie the colors  together perfectly.  You brush it on, let it sit a few moments, then wipe it off.  Easy pezy! :)

Things to think about... What would happen if you put a werewolf on the moon?  h is just a little chair and the human brain named itself!

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Thursday, December 17, 2015 3:00 PM

Hello!

For a wash - just be careful that you use paint and thinner that work well together - and don't melt the underlying plastic and paint as well...

You can make good water based wash using water-soluble acrylic paint and water. It's good to add some soap or dish-washing agent to it (really, a very small amount - less than a drop). Adding a little future floor polish might also help break the surface tension of water and make tha wash flow better and not form big drops on the model surface.

And yes, a little practice is much better than reading lots of instructions - so just take a piece of plastic and try it! Good luck with your builds and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    May 2014
Posted by Ceithearn on Wednesday, December 23, 2015 4:13 PM

Thanks so much for the input, really appreciate it. With a few days off over the holidays will give these a try. Looking forward to kicking the kits up a few  steps. 

Have a clear hull T34/85, looking forward to weathering the engine compartment and interior of the tank. 

Will update you on the results, any other tips you feel like sharing please feel free.

All the best.

 

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