What glues do I need?

Thin liquid glue, Tube glue (if you need it), CA. Found in hobby shops or online hobby stores.

snowmobilenut

Hello all! Been out of modeling for awhile but have a whole cabinet full of kits to build. Retired so have time and want to start in building again. All my glues are hardened and I have not kept up on what's new or available. Kits are a mix of armour, aircraft,race cars and a ship or two. So my question is......what glues should I be looking to purchase to get started back building and where should I purchase? Thanks in advance!

 

 

The thin liquid cement lends itself well for flowing it into the joint to be bonded, due to what is call "capillary action." Basically, place the parts together and hold, using the small applicator carefully touch the brush lightly just at the seam to be joined, the cement will be wicked out of the brush and along the seam until it's all been spread. Then you just reload the brush and keep going around the length of the seam. A little practice will demonstrate to you just how well this works.

Another staple is Model Master Liquid Cement, thicker than the Tamiya thin stuff, about like the old tube glues. Comes in a black, squarish plastic bottle, with very small metal tube applicator. Recommended for tasks that require cement such as that. There are two in identical containers, same stuff but different sized applicators, one has a much larger tip than the other.

The one I use is the smaller applicator with metal tube, part number 8872. While they both appear to have the same cement inside, this one makes for much more precise application and neater joins.

Then you may also find use for the "instant glues," they have their place, but require great care when applying. Easy to slobber some where you don't want it, (I'm a recognized expert at that,) and not at all good for clear parts like canopies, it creates a "fogging or hazing" effect from fumes.

Those are what I use, others may chime in with their recommendations.

Patrick 

The one I use the most is gel (thick) CA, with the thin regular CA the next most used.  The thin works well if the parts fit super-well, very super fit. I also keep white glue or a variant sold as window/canopy cement, as CA can fog transparent plastic.  I have given up on solvent (liquid) cements- some of the newer styrene kits do not work as well as they used to.

I also keep epoxy on hand for when I need a really strong bond.  Parts must be really clean to get that strong bond, however.

I keep 4 glues on hand.

Testors "cement" and "Clear parts/window maker"...both come in a triangular shaped bottle (black and clear-ish, respectfully). I have recently switched to the Tamiya extra thin (described above) and LOVE it! Then there CA (super glue) that I use for resin, PE, and the fiddly bits.

I use Tamiya model glue, variations of CA, usually the thin and the medium, I find they make great fillers and prefer it over putty any day. Right now I only have the medium from Loctite, I avoid the Hobby Lobby crap like the plague, the stuff loses it's adhesive ability in a very short time. Useless stuff.  Elmers glue is great for clear parts, but I like the Hypo cement better.

I pretty much use CA exclusively but, as Don said, you gotta be careful with it as it can make a mess and ruin a piece; and, since CA was originally developed to bond skin, you will find out pretty quickly that you can glue your fingers to the model a lot quicker than you can glue the pieces to one another!

You CAN use CA to glue clear parts (I do it all the time), but you will first have to "dip" the clear part in Future/Pledge Floor Care Multi-Surface Finish (it was SO much easier when it was just "Future"!) to prevent it from fogging.

I agree with Fermis:  I use Model Master's model glue in the black triangular container with the long thin metal applicator that is built in, as well as the MM clear glue (for cockpit canopies and such).  Increasingly I'm using the Tamiya ultra thin cement because it flows excellently on its own.  And I have both medium viscosity and instant-set thin CA glue.  The medium viscosity CA takes a bit longer to set up and is really good for setting a piece that you then need to adjust a bit.

Good luck!

I tried the future trick on clear plastic, and it still fogged up.  Then someone told me, "you have to remove the future afterwards."  However, that is a bit hard to do if the windows/canopy is already glued in place.

Zap medium CA,  Tamiya extra thin cement, Testors plastic cement, Pacer Formula 560 canopy glue for clear stuff.  I like the 560 as it stays a wee bit flexible so the part gives a little when I bang my fat thumb into it.  Not that that's ever happened. 

I've had the same experience Don had with Future on a canopy fogging when applied with CA glue.  But I've also had the experience where it didn't fog.  So now if I'm gluing a canopy with CA, I put it in my paint booth and turn on the fan.  No more fogging.

CN Spots, where did you get the Pacer stuff?  Sounds ideal!

Chris

Here's what i use in order of most used.

thick super glue

thin super glue

tamiya extra thin, or testors liquid glue 

high quality white glue

testors Orange tube glue, still has its uses!