Sanding In Tight or Small Areas

I finally was able to get a coat of primer on the top half today. Noticed a couple of places that needed somw cleaning up. Even so, I'm very happy with how things are turning out, and maybe I can get get it ready for the base coat this week. Here's a couple of pictures to show it looks now. Thanks again! Happy Easter everyone!!!!!

Thank you for asking your question! It may not be helpful to me, but maybe someone else here who probably had the same question but was afraid to ask will no doubt enjoy these suggestions. You can also use small strips of aluminum, copper, and brass to glue sandpaper to as well. Anything that will help keep a flat smooth even finish will be most assuredly appreciated by others who are looking for it as an answer to their modeling prayers/questions too! Every little bit helps.

~ Cobra Chris

Hi All,

I just wanted to post a couple of pictures show my progress now that you were able to help me. The popsicle sticks worked great, and I was able to sand the areas in question very cleanly. Especially where the frame meets the nacelle, and the grooves at the tips of the nacelles. Thanks again to all of you for your help!

Tom

Thanks Cobra Chris! I did use popsicle sticks, and it works great! I was able to ge the tight areas filled and sanded. I'm going to try to post a couple of pics tonight, and hopefully will be able to get some primer on it this weekend.

Tom

tdwi66

Thanks for all of these great suggestions guys!! I knew it would be a good idea to ask the community about my problem. What I settled on was using a popsicle stick with the round end cut off. I simply wrapped a piece of 320 grit around the squared end, and it worked like a charm! I will post a picture in a day or two with results. You guys are all great, and thanks again for you help!

Tom

 

~ Cobra Chris

Thanks for all of these great suggestions guys!! I knew it would be a good idea to ask the community about my problem. What I settled on was using a popsicle stick with the round end cut off. I simply wrapped a piece of 320 grit around the squared end, and it worked like a charm! I will post a picture in a day or two with results. You guys are all great, and thanks again for you help!

Tom

You could also make custom sanding sticks taylored to whatever your needs are:

https://flic.kr/p/psLd3N][/url]Sanding Stick-02 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

https://flic.kr/p/pJYuzZ][/url]Sanding Stick-04 by N.T. Izumi, on Flickr

I use double sided tape to attach the sandpaper.  Use tweezers to hold the small ones.  I have also stuck a piece of rubber band as well as foam tray bits between the "T" backing and sandpaper to deal with curved areas.  HTH.

Use red glazing spot auto putty.Let dry then use a cotton swab dipped in acetone base finger nail polish remover.Rub into the small areas till smooth.Practice w/ parts.

I found the ultimate electronic sander at Wall Mart for less than half the price of Micro Mark's $92.00 sander. 

It's a $37.00 Amope' electronic finger nail buffer found in the cosmetic section. (Not the barrel/roller type used on feet ) It's a battery operated little gizmo that really gets into any small area and does the job quickly. ( I saw it on TV ) It does way better than my modified electric toothbrsh.  I simply removed the  sanding material from the 3 supplied attachments , slapped on some double stick foam weather strip tape and added my own sand paper.

So far the thing sanded down an entire 1/48 sabre paint job and spot jobs on 4 other models including very tight spots on wing roots etc. and the batteries are still going strong since December. It's like this thing was first made for models and not finger nails.

3M makes two foam sanding pads that may work.  One is only in a few grits, and is about an eighth of an inch thick with a couple of medium grits available.  The other is a perforated pattern one, a bit thinner, with lots of fine grits available, especially a 600.  The perforated pattern allows water to flow through and around the abrasive (it is wet or dry pad).

For long straight channels I use a length of basswood strip wood and make u-shaped folded sandpaper that just surrounds the piece.

I get so envious of how lucky you guy's in america are , those thing's on ebay are between $40 -$75 ,with postage ., for 1 packet . think I'll pass .

Bick

I use 'sanding sticks' for areas as you show. The ones I have (from Hobby Town IIRC) are about 1/8" square. 5" long and have two grits one on either side of a stiff foam board and the grits range from very fine to very coarse. Easily cut to length and are 'safe sided', i.e. you can sand a 90 deg corner and only sand one surface. Flory models sells similar (from Sprue Bros). I find them very useful.

 

I make my own by shaping popsickle sticks with my dremel and gluing small scarps of sandpaper to the finished product.

hogfanfs

I don't have a good suggestion for sanding what you currently have. But, this is why I use Perfect Plastic putty for those type of seams. I can fill the seam then use a q-tip with water and spread to the point it doesn't need sanding. Or very little sanding.

 

Vallejo's putty works the same way, correct?

These are the sanding needles he was talking about:

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/sanding-needle-blue-medium-240grit/FLX00000402/product.php?s=4-3&t=2-2&u=2-2

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/sanding-needle-white-fine-320-grit/FLX00000403/product.php?s=4-3&t=2-2&u=2-2

https://www.scalehobbyist.com/catagories/Paint_and_Construction/sanding-needle-grey-coarse/FLX00000401/product.php?s=4-3&t=2-2&u=2-2

I got mine at Hobby Lobby. With a 40% coupon, it's a steal.

Wow, this is all so great!!! Thanks guys! You've all given me a lot of ideas, and something to think about.

I will definitely try some PPP, and pull that trigger.

I hadn't thought about using foam core even though I work with it sometimes on my job.

I do have some Squadron sanding sticks that I haven't opened yet although the sanding needles or, the Sprue Bros options are looking like the direction i may want to go.

I'm going to sleep on it, and let you know in a day or two, and let you know what I tried.

Thanks again, and have a great week!

Tom

Sprue Bros. also sells sanding needles that are about about 1/8" diameter and 4" long, and have one end tapered. They are really handy but unfortunately don't come any finer than 320 grit.

What I like to do most of my detail sanding with are homemade "blocks" made from 1" x 2" strips of .005 & .010 styrene. Using rubber cement, I wrap them with wet & dry sandpaper in a variety of finer grits. A local automotive paint store sells sheets that go from 180 to 2400. While this "tool" is a little time consuming to set up, it's super cheap and every bit as good as the sanding sticks made specifically for modeling.

Hope this helps!

Mike

I use 'sanding sticks' for areas as you show. The ones I have (from Hobby Town IIRC) are about 1/8" square. 5" long and have two grits one on either side of a stiff foam board and the grits range from very fine to very coarse. Easily cut to length and are 'safe sided', i.e. you can sand a 90 deg corner and only sand one surface. Flory models sells similar (from Sprue Bros). I find them very useful.

I concur with hogfanfs and patrick on the perfect putty. Pull the trigger.

TDWI - I give a strong second for PPP, really good stuff and so easy to work with.

When I'm faced with a difficult and tight area to sand, I resort to foam bits in varying degrees of density/rigidity. When the foam is cut and shaped to the form needed, I wrap it with the appropriate sandpaper grit.

Some foam is quite flexible, others of the cellular molded type are a bit more stiff and shape retaining. For cutting them to the shape required, I use an electric carving knife. The advantage of the lower density foam is it's flexibilty, it becomes a bit more adaptable at conforming to the area to be sanded, as in the multiple "corregated" surfaces in your photos.

The more dense foam will be more apt to retain the shape as carved, so the sanded area remains consistent throughout the surface. Any of the mentioned foam bits can also be attached to sticks, using contact cement or cyano.

A little experimenting will tell you if you like the idea. I hope  it does.

Patrick 

Sanding needles? I am ashamed to admit that I had not heard of those before your post Sir. I will stop by the hobby shop during my lunch and see if they have any in stock. Thanks!

I've looked into Perfect Plactic Putty but, haven't pulled the trigger on buying it yet. None of the local hobby shops carry it, and I would have to order it online. Of course I'm impatient and want it today!lol! If you really think it's worth it, I should give it a try.

Thank you GMorrison! What I use is Aves Apoxie Sculpt, and I have grown to love it! Once it's mixed you can form it into small strips, and drop it right into the seam. Wet your finger a little bit to keep the Aves from sticking to it, and to smooth it into place. Aves does not shrink however, you do have to give it a bit more elbow grease that standard putty. In my opinion it is way better than Miliput or Tamaya's epoxy putties.

I don't have a good suggestion for sanding what you currently have. But, this is why I use Perfect Plastic putty for those type of seams. I can fill the seam then use a q-tip with water and spread to the point it doesn't need sanding. Or very little sanding.

Too tight for sanding needles?

You are sure doing some clean work there. I'll be interested to hear what the suggestions are, as well.

Frankly, I'm impressed that you got joint filler in there so neatly!