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Looking for help on a poor canopy seam removal

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  • Member since
    May 2016
Looking for help on a poor canopy seam removal
Posted by Imperfectionist_Drew on Monday, May 30, 2016 3:58 PM

Hello all fine modelers! After using countless tips & tricks posts to flat out basic 101 fundamentals, Ive came to a point to where I am in the need of some suggestions or brutal honesty. After removing a handful or so of canopy seams with ever increasing succes (or atleast to my standards) I sadly did this one quite poorly... Ive included some pictures at different angles and this is after hitting it with wet grit 600(VERY LIGHTLY to just bring out some of the 'deeper' gouges) followed by 1000, 2k, 3.2, 3.6, 4, 6, 8, and finally 12k followed by a bath in future. What Im looking for is somehow to revive my wrongdoings, or should I just chalk it up as a loss and move on while learning from this mistake. Anything would be greatly appericated, and if all you do is read this untill now I still thank you!

 

 

 

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, May 31, 2016 9:15 AM

I find that after I am done with about 1000 grit, dipping the canopy or other transparent structure into Future smooths out any residual fog.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Tuesday, May 31, 2016 11:29 AM

Hello!

To be honest I don't quite see the problem from the photos.

For work like that I usually take the nail polishing file (the one with multiple grades of abrasive) - and then dip in furure, and it works for me. Good luck with your projects and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    February 2006
  • From: Boston
Posted by Wilbur Wright on Tuesday, May 31, 2016 4:33 PM

It's hard to see, however did you first use a #11 blade to lightly scrape the seam off before beginning sanding, and cause striations by doing that?  If that uis the case you'll have to sand them out

 

I always use a #11 blade very carefully first... then wet sand 600, 1K, 1500, 2K and thats it then Future.

 

However I pretty much agree with Don.

  • Member since
    June 2016
Posted by DMWilson on Thursday, June 2, 2016 2:59 PM

I saw something in one of the tutorials (this web site) where the "pro" was discussing something that you could dip the canopy in that would remove the scratches and return you a clear "like new" canopy. Sorry I don't recall which one but it should be easy to search out.

  • Member since
    May 2016
Posted by Imperfectionist_Drew on Thursday, June 2, 2016 5:24 PM

Yeah I made sure  start with a brand new #11 blade... And I did dip it in future/klear Crying I sanded out what I had felt semi comfortable with because I was scared to acciddently sand to much in fear of certain spots looking like weird indentations. Thats why I went ahead and did tye future dip hoping it would seal thos up like all of the previous canopies I have finished without any of the troubles this one has given me... And I apologize for the late reply Ive been super busy with school this week and but Ill be back at it this weekend.

  • Member since
    May 2016
Posted by Imperfectionist_Drew on Thursday, June 2, 2016 5:28 PM
Its future/klear/pledge floor care which is acrylic based, which I have done, but still thank you for thr reply!
  • Member since
    September 2009
Posted by Cobra 427 on Thursday, June 2, 2016 10:48 PM

Why not use either Meguiars' No. 7 Showcar glaze, or No. 9 swirl remover? You can also use Plastix which is made for clear acrylic. I've used these will excellent results for model parts both coloured, and clear. No need for messy cover ups, or spraying clear, or future over it, and the canopy will remain exactly as it should be without worry of discolouration at a later time, incompatibility, or other problem. Just rub the sanded area with a cotton swab with the polish on it until clear without scratches - problem solved!

 

~ Cobra Chris

Maybe a picture of a squirrel playing a harmonica will make you feel better?

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2016
Posted by Imperfectionist_Drew on Friday, June 3, 2016 1:44 PM
Cobra- The Meguiars' brand I'm not very familiar with, but googling it made me think of a can of tire shine(the wet look) my father had a few years back. Going to their site and under the Americas car care products tab there wasn't anything that had a # at the end of its name. There was 2 products thay kind of caught my eye though was something called 'PlastX clear plastic cleaner & polish' and 'ScratchX' but didnt look into them at all are they close to what you were talking about? And to everyone else, I'm sorry my replies are taking SO long to post, I guess I'm still on the newb probation period and EVERY reply has to get approval before it'll actually show up... I was under the impression that only the original 1st post needed to be approved.
  • Member since
    June 2016
Posted by DMWilson on Saturday, June 4, 2016 10:30 PM

...andthen there is this nifty how to article on polishing canopies that I came across, at the following link

http://modelingmadness.com/scott/basics/buff.htm

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