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Aligning Fuselage Halves

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  • Member since
    June 2016
Aligning Fuselage Halves
Posted by David from PA on Saturday, July 30, 2016 6:21 AM

Hi All,

I was wondering, for future reference, how most of you align fuselage halves when the locator pins have been sanded off in order to get a better seam?

David From PA

 

 

  • Member since
    May 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Saturday, July 30, 2016 8:16 AM

Hello!

If I have to sand off the pin, I can later drill a hole in the right place and put a short piece of wire there - that gives me a new, better pin that is temorarily removable, before I glue the parts together. But sometimes the pins are missing from the start - in this case I glue several tabs made out of plastic sheet to both halves of the fuselage (making sure that they don't "colide") and that helps. Also, using liquid glue (I use lacquer thinner) helps, because it gives you time to fine-tune the alignment while the glue sets (and it takes some time). I hope it helps you - good luck with your builds, please post some pictures and have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    December 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Saturday, July 30, 2016 9:34 AM

I often find that even with pins, they don't line up all that well. I do it with touch and eye. And as pawel says, liquid weld gives you time to move the halves to get them right. I just start at one end and keep checking as i add the glue.

I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so

 

On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Saturday, July 30, 2016 9:50 AM

If the pins and sockets create problems, I first try to fix them.  Usually, drilling the socket hole a bit bigger and deeper fixes the two main problems, slight registration errors, or pin bottoming out in socket.  If that still does not fix problem, or if kit lacks pins, I use slow drying glue and do best I can.

One big problem that has no easy fix is when the height of one side of the kit is different than the other side. In that case no amount of shifting can eliminate the steps, only minimize them.  Sometimes a couple of those new clamps with micro adjustments can reduce the problem by creating just the right amount of squeeze on the larger side, but never seems to eliminate the steps entirely.  Lots of scraping, filing, and filling are the only recourse on these kits.

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    June 2016
Posted by David from PA on Saturday, July 30, 2016 10:49 AM

Thanks all for the suggestions. Not having trouble with the F4F but was thinking of doing the 1/32 P38 and, since that one is a bare metal plane, it might be a bit easier to hide the seams if I sand off the alignment pins. I will post pics when I have a camera other than the one on my phone. 

David From PA

 

 

  • Member since
    September 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Saturday, July 30, 2016 11:17 AM

Also I work from the top down. If a misalignment is inevitable, I'd prefer it on the bottom.

 Modeling is an excuse to buy books.

 

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Wednesday, September 21, 2016 1:59 PM

Hi;

   Promise not to laugh ? I take the fuselage pins off all my aircraft .Then I run the fuselage edge down on 800 grit wet sandpaper . Twice only for each side and not much pressure either . Now glue the top together .

 Yup , let it dry !  Now , clamp and glue the bottom together . Sometimes you can squeeze a little , aligning it perfectly and let dry very well .Tha clamping does two things . It keeps alingnment and lets a wee bit of glue softened plastic to ooze out . When dry you sand this and you won't hopefully need any filler .     T.B.

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