Masking metallic paints

Yeah, that tends to happen with metallic paints. I'm not sure the exact reason, but it's happened to me even with a full day's cure.

I read about masking metallic paints with wet newspaper a while ago. I haven't tried it yet myself.

I have started masking metallic paints and Alclad with strips of Post-it, the area that has the low-tack adhesive.  Not sure, but wonder if the problems we have with masking tape is that some of the adhesive stays on the paint surface, or somehow affects the sheen of the surface. The adhesive on Post-it notes seems to not transfer easily.

Hello!

I believe the glue in most masking materials has some solvents in it, and those solvents mess with the surface. On some metalizers it's obvious that the tape lifts some of the metallic particles out of the paint coat, damaging it. Some metallic coats never seem to dry - like those spray can chrome silver stuff - seems not-quite-cured even after months! I always wonder how do people get those mosaic-metallic finishes on cold war aircraft - but I will find out!

Have a nice day

Paweł

I do believe 3-4 hours is not enough curing time. Heck I wait a day for any paint before masking. 

Never had a problem with Alclad, Floquil or MM Metallics except the MM Metalizers that need to be sealed prior to masking. Post it notes are very good for masking.

hypertex

Yeah, that tends to happen with metallic paints. I'm not sure the exact reason, but it's happened to me even with a full day's cure.

I read about masking metallic paints with wet newspaper a while ago. I haven't tried it yet myself.

wet newspaper ? hmm... i'll try to look into it :) Thx Hypertex

Don Stauffer

I have started masking metallic paints and Alclad with strips of Post-it, the area that has the low-tack adhesive.  Not sure, but wonder if the problems we have with masking tape is that some of the adhesive stays on the paint surface, or somehow affects the sheen of the surface. The adhesive on Post-it notes seems to not transfer easily.

 

Post-it ! guess I'm gonna give it a shot... :) Thanks Don

Pawel

Hello!

I believe the glue in most masking materials has some solvents in it, and those solvents mess with the surface. On some metalizers it's obvious that the tape lifts some of the metallic particles out of the paint coat, damaging it. Some metallic coats never seem to dry - like those spray can chrome silver stuff - seems not-quite-cured even after months! I always wonder how do people get those mosaic-metallic finishes on cold war aircraft - but I will find out!

Have a nice day

Paweł

Yes ! That's what i mean exactly. How did they do it ?? Some even have 3-5 metallic variations on a single fuselage. And it's so NEAT !!

plasticjunkie

I do believe 3-4 hours is not enough curing time. Heck I wait a day for any paint before masking. 

Never had a problem with Alcla, Floquil or MM Metallics except the MM Metalizers that need to be sealed prior to masking. Post it notes are very good for masking.

Yes, that is my fault.... i thought the silver was cured since it was dry and sunny all day long... i should've waited longer. well then, dear Sir, if you'd be so kind to share, what kind of technique/material did you use for masking those metallics ? Please :)

I'd really increase your cure time. I try to go 5 days to a week with any enamel/ lacquer. Seriously, I just find something else to do. You can also de-tack tape, and last take it off immediately, like within minutes.

GMorrison

I'd really increase your cure time. I try to go 5 days to a week with any enamel/ lacquer. Seriously, I just find something else to do. You can also de-tack tape, and last take it off immediately, like within minutes.

 

SeiYuusha

 

what kind of technique/material did you use for masking those metallics ? Please :)

 

I have several rolls of masking tape ranging from the Dollar Store, Blue painters tape, Shurtape and Tamiya brand. 

Shurtape is very low tac and available from Sherwin Williams paint stores. I use it on metallics cause of the low tac qualities. The Blue Painters tape is also good on metallics. For picking out panels I use post it notes.

Again, I have used regular masking tape on Alclad paints an hour after application and have not experienced any lifting or blemishing. Other paints need more curing time. 

Remember Blue painters tape comes in a range of grades, to painters identified by how long it can be left in place, how recently the paint was applied and whether or not there is surface texture. You want the orange kind, also its of course more expensive but it is designed for freshly painted smooth surfaces.

plasticjunkie

I have several rolls of masking tape ranging from the Dollar Store, Blue painters tape, Shurtape and Tamiya brand. 

Shurtape is very low tac and available from Sherwin Williams paint stores. I use it on metallics cause of the low tac qualities. The Blue Painters tape is also good on metallics. For picking out panels I use post it notes.

Again, I have used regular masking tape on Alclad paints an hour after application and have not experienced any lifting or blemishing. Other paints need more curing time. 

 

Blue Painters, got it ! gonna look around for it too... or at least look on ebay & amazon...

Gerhard

De-tac the Tamiya tape on the back of your hand before applying it.

 

CP60 tape is the one I have. Forgot to ask what brand paint you used.

plasticjunkie

CP60 tape is the one I have. Forgot to ask what brand paint you used.

i used Gaianotes. 

Scotch brand has one called "removeable tape." It is very low tack and masks well with a fine edge. If applied then painted immediately, followed by quick removal, it leaves no residue and hasn't lifted anything yet, metallics or other.

If left for any appreciable length of time, (days,) then it does seem to leave a bit of a film that can't be seen, but can be felt, sort of a slightly greasy/tacky sensation. Bottom line, Tamiya and Post-It's are my favorites.

Patrick

Palm of your hand or forehead work too.

I use MM Metalizers for all my NMF's...and Tamiya tape to mask. Metal paints are pretty weak and peel up really easily. What likely happened, in you case is some of the metal came up with the tape, but some stayed in place. I'll stick and peel the masking take to the palm of my hand, several times, before placing it on the model. I usually seal the metalic first (lacquer clear gloss), but not always. You will have better luck if you seal it first.

patrick206

Scotch brand has one called "removeable tape." It is very low tack and masks well with a fine edge. If applied then painted immediately, followed by quick removal, it leaves no residue and hasn't lifted anything yet, metallics or other.

If left for any appreciable length of time, (days,) then it does seem to leave a bit of a film that can't be seen, but can be felt, sort of a slightly greasy/tacky sensation. Bottom line, Tamiya and Post-It's are my favorites.

Patrick

thanks, Patrick :)

i guess i just have to revise my masking strategies. still gotta learn a whole lot more :)

fermis

Palm of your hand or forehead work too.

I use MM Metalizers for all my NMF's...and Tamiya tape to mask. Metal paints are pretty weak and peel up really easily. What likely happened, in you case is some of the metal came up with the tape, but some stayed in place. I'll stick and peel the masking take to the palm of my hand, several times, before placing it on the model. I usually seal the metalic first (lacquer clear gloss), but not always. You will have better luck if you seal it first.

seal the metallic... hmm, that's something i rarely do. basically i just want the frames/insides to look like bare metal... haha.

but i'll give it a try. Thanks fermis :)

I use Testors Model Master Metallic paint straight from the rattle can. Iused two colors, aluminum and stainless steel, in my B-24.

First I painted the smaller areas with stainless steeel. After that dried, I sealed it with Testors Metallic Sealer and then I masked those areas with Tamyia yellow tape and then sprayed the wing with aluminum. I stick the tape to my forehead to remove some of the adhesive before I apply it to the model. I have never had a problem.

JohnnyK

I use Testors Model Master Metallic paint straight from the rattle can. Iused two colors, aluminum and stainless steel, in my B-24.

First I painted the smaller areas with stainless steeel. After that dried, I sealed it with Testors Metallic Sealer and then I masked those areas with Tamyia yellow tape and then sprayed the wing with aluminum. I stick the tape to my forehead to remove some of the adhesive before I apply it to the model. I have never had a problem.

Awesome, sir !! that's exactly the kind of look i want(ed) to achieve.

so, this Metallic Sealer, can i substitute it with other brand of clear paints, say Mr. Super Clear III or Gaia EX Clear ? as i use airbrush, and those are the ones that i have... will they yield similar results ?

I have had it where the tape leaves like a dull area where the tape was, not lifting it but changing the sheen. Why does that happen? How can I avoid it?

Post-It Note paper.

Tanker - Builder

Post-It Note paper.