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Masking metallic paints

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  • Member since
    December, 2010
Masking metallic paints
Posted by SeiYuusha on Tuesday, February 07, 2017 11:24 PM

Hello...

i had problems masking metallic paints, so i thought i need some advices from the best expert modellers :)

i wanted to do a 2-tone metallic paint, silver & gunmetal respectively. sprayed silver first, mask, then gunmetal. the problem was, when i peeled the masking tape, the silver was marred... ? i don't really know how to describe it, let's say the once glossy smooth silver became unevenly blurred.

i didn't wait for too long before masking, though, just about 3-4 hours.

is it because the silver hadn't really cured ? maybe i should wait a little longer, say, a day to a week ?

or, is the masking tape's adhesive "harmful" to metallic paints ? (this one's a bit absurd, but oh well.. who knows ?)

fyi, i used TAMIYA's masking tape (the yellow ones), Silver & Gunmetal were Gaianotes.

Thanks in advance, any advice is greatly appreciated.

Tags: masking , metallic , paint
  • Member since
    October, 2010
Posted by hypertex on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:47 AM

Yeah, that tends to happen with metallic paints. I'm not sure the exact reason, but it's happened to me even with a full day's cure.

I read about masking metallic paints with wet newspaper a while ago. I haven't tried it yet myself.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 8:27 AM

I have started masking metallic paints and Alclad with strips of Post-it, the area that has the low-tack adhesive.  Not sure, but wonder if the problems we have with masking tape is that some of the adhesive stays on the paint surface, or somehow affects the sheen of the surface. The adhesive on Post-it notes seems to not transfer easily.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    May, 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 4:35 PM

Hello!

I believe the glue in most masking materials has some solvents in it, and those solvents mess with the surface. On some metalizers it's obvious that the tape lifts some of the metallic particles out of the paint coat, damaging it. Some metallic coats never seem to dry - like those spray can chrome silver stuff - seems not-quite-cured even after months! I always wonder how do people get those mosaic-metallic finishes on cold war aircraft - but I will find out!

Have a nice day

Paweł

All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

www.vietnam.net.pl

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 5:57 PM

I do believe 3-4 hours is not enough curing time. Heck I wait a day for any paint before masking. 

Never had a problem with Alclad, Floquil or MM Metallics except the MM Metalizers that need to be sealed prior to masking. Post it notes are very good for masking.

  • Member since
    December, 2010
Posted by SeiYuusha on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:29 PM

hypertex

Yeah, that tends to happen with metallic paints. I'm not sure the exact reason, but it's happened to me even with a full day's cure.

I read about masking metallic paints with wet newspaper a while ago. I haven't tried it yet myself.

wet newspaper ? hmm... i'll try to look into it :) Thx Hypertex

 

Don Stauffer

I have started masking metallic paints and Alclad with strips of Post-it, the area that has the low-tack adhesive.  Not sure, but wonder if the problems we have with masking tape is that some of the adhesive stays on the paint surface, or somehow affects the sheen of the surface. The adhesive on Post-it notes seems to not transfer easily.

 

Post-it ! guess I'm gonna give it a shot... :) Thanks Don

 

Pawel

Hello!

I believe the glue in most masking materials has some solvents in it, and those solvents mess with the surface. On some metalizers it's obvious that the tape lifts some of the metallic particles out of the paint coat, damaging it. Some metallic coats never seem to dry - like those spray can chrome silver stuff - seems not-quite-cured even after months! I always wonder how do people get those mosaic-metallic finishes on cold war aircraft - but I will find out!

Have a nice day

Paweł

Yes ! That's what i mean exactly. How did they do it ?? Some even have 3-5 metallic variations on a single fuselage. And it's so NEAT !!

 

I do believe 3-4 hours is not enough curing time. Heck I wait a day for any paint before masking. 

Never had a problem with Alcla, Floquil or MM Metallics except the MM Metalizers that need to be sealed prior to masking. Post it notes are very good for masking.

Yes, that is my fault.... i thought the silver was cured since it was dry and sunny all day long... i should've waited longer. well then, dear Sir, if you'd be so kind to share, what kind of technique/material did you use for masking those metallics ? Please :)

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:37 PM

I'd really increase your cure time. I try to go 5 days to a week with any enamel/ lacquer. Seriously, I just find something else to do. You can also de-tack tape, and last take it off immediately, like within minutes.

  • Member since
    December, 2010
Posted by SeiYuusha on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 7:58 PM

GMorrison

I'd really increase your cure time. I try to go 5 days to a week with any enamel/ lacquer. Seriously, I just find something else to do. You can also de-tack tape, and last take it off immediately, like within minutes.

 

Yes, gonna do exactly that ! Hopefully it will work this time.
  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 8:15 PM

SeiYuusha
 
what kind of technique/material did you use for masking those metallics ? Please :)
 

I have several rolls of masking tape ranging from the Dollar Store, Blue painters tape, Shurtape and Tamiya brand. 

Shurtape is very low tac and available from Sherwin Williams paint stores. I use it on metallics cause of the low tac qualities. The Blue Painters tape is also good on metallics. For picking out panels I use post it notes.

Again, I have used regular masking tape on Alclad paints an hour after application and have not experienced any lifting or blemishing. Other paints need more curing time. 

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 8:50 PM

Remember Blue painters tape comes in a range of grades, to painters identified by how long it can be left in place, how recently the paint was applied and whether or not there is surface texture. You want the orange kind, also its of course more expensive but it is designed for freshly painted smooth surfaces.

  • Member since
    December, 2010
Posted by SeiYuusha on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 10:26 PM

plasticjunkie

I have several rolls of masking tape ranging from the Dollar Store, Blue painters tape, Shurtape and Tamiya brand. 

Shurtape is very low tac and available from Sherwin Williams paint stores. I use it on metallics cause of the low tac qualities. The Blue Painters tape is also good on metallics. For picking out panels I use post it notes.

Again, I have used regular masking tape on Alclad paints an hour after application and have not experienced any lifting or blemishing. Other paints need more curing time. 

 

I only have TAMIYA's ... i don't think anyone sells Shurtape in indonesia, but i'm gonna look around. :) btw, sir, which type of Shurtape that you used on metallic ? is it the CP 60 ?
 

GMorrison

Remember Blue painters tape comes in a range of grades, to painters identified by how long it can be left in place, how recently the paint was applied and whether or not there is surface texture. You want the orange kind, also its of course more expensive but it is designed for freshly painted smooth surfaces.

 

Blue Painters, got it ! gonna look around for it too... or at least look on ebay & amazon... Toast
  • Member since
    November, 2016
Posted by Gerhard on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 11:06 PM
De-tac the Tamiya tape on the back of your hand before applying it.
  • Member since
    December, 2010
Posted by SeiYuusha on Wednesday, February 08, 2017 11:33 PM

Gerhard
De-tac the Tamiya tape on the back of your hand before applying it.
 

i have lots of hair at the back of my hand... haha. Thanks for the advice, i'll give it a shot for sure :)
  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Thursday, February 09, 2017 6:22 AM

CP60 tape is the one I have. Forgot to ask what brand paint you used.

  • Member since
    December, 2010
Posted by SeiYuusha on Thursday, February 09, 2017 7:13 AM

plasticjunkie

CP60 tape is the one I have. Forgot to ask what brand paint you used.

i used Gaianotes. 

  • Member since
    March, 2013
Posted by patrick206 on Saturday, February 11, 2017 1:29 PM

Scotch brand has one called "removeable tape." It is very low tack and masks well with a fine edge. If applied then painted immediately, followed by quick removal, it leaves no residue and hasn't lifted anything yet, metallics or other.

If left for any appreciable length of time, (days,) then it does seem to leave a bit of a film that can't be seen, but can be felt, sort of a slightly greasy/tacky sensation. Bottom line, Tamiya and Post-It's are my favorites.

Patrick

  • Member since
    January, 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Monday, February 13, 2017 4:55 PM

Palm of your hand or forehead work too.

I use MM Metalizers for all my NMF's...and Tamiya tape to mask. Metal paints are pretty weak and peel up really easily. What likely happened, in you case is some of the metal came up with the tape, but some stayed in place. I'll stick and peel the masking take to the palm of my hand, several times, before placing it on the model. I usually seal the metalic first (lacquer clear gloss), but not always. You will have better luck if you seal it first.

  • Member since
    December, 2010
Posted by SeiYuusha on Monday, February 13, 2017 8:27 PM

patrick206

Scotch brand has one called "removeable tape." It is very low tack and masks well with a fine edge. If applied then painted immediately, followed by quick removal, it leaves no residue and hasn't lifted anything yet, metallics or other.

If left for any appreciable length of time, (days,) then it does seem to leave a bit of a film that can't be seen, but can be felt, sort of a slightly greasy/tacky sensation. Bottom line, Tamiya and Post-It's are my favorites.

Patrick

thanks, Patrick :)

i guess i just have to revise my masking strategies. still gotta learn a whole lot more :)

 

fermis

Palm of your hand or forehead work too.

I use MM Metalizers for all my NMF's...and Tamiya tape to mask. Metal paints are pretty weak and peel up really easily. What likely happened, in you case is some of the metal came up with the tape, but some stayed in place. I'll stick and peel the masking take to the palm of my hand, several times, before placing it on the model. I usually seal the metalic first (lacquer clear gloss), but not always. You will have better luck if you seal it first.

seal the metallic... hmm, that's something i rarely do. basically i just want the frames/insides to look like bare metal... haha.

but i'll give it a try. Thanks fermis :)

  • Member since
    March, 2015
Posted by JohnnyK on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 4:47 PM

I use Testors Model Master Metallic paint straight from the rattle can. Iused two colors, aluminum and stainless steel, in my B-24.

First I painted the smaller areas with stainless steeel. After that dried, I sealed it with Testors Metallic Sealer and then I masked those areas with Tamyia yellow tape and then sprayed the wing with aluminum. I stick the tape to my forehead to remove some of the adhesive before I apply it to the model. I have never had a problem.

 

 

 

  • Member since
    December, 2010
Posted by SeiYuusha on Wednesday, February 15, 2017 7:15 PM

JohnnyK

I use Testors Model Master Metallic paint straight from the rattle can. Iused two colors, aluminum and stainless steel, in my B-24.

First I painted the smaller areas with stainless steeel. After that dried, I sealed it with Testors Metallic Sealer and then I masked those areas with Tamyia yellow tape and then sprayed the wing with aluminum. I stick the tape to my forehead to remove some of the adhesive before I apply it to the model. I have never had a problem.

Awesome, sir !! that's exactly the kind of look i want(ed) to achieve.

so, this Metallic Sealer, can i substitute it with other brand of clear paints, say Mr. Super Clear III or Gaia EX Clear ? as i use airbrush, and those are the ones that i have... will they yield similar results ?

  • Member since
    May, 2006
  • From: Irmo, South Carolina
Posted by Shipwreck on Wednesday, February 22, 2017 6:35 AM
I just finished a B-29 in NMF. Each time I varied the panels using blue tape it would damage the underlying Alclad 2 paint. Low stick Frost King brand was OK! Cure time probably was not a question because it was over a least a week; and yet some people do not seem to have a problem masking Alclad 2 paint. The primer may need to be considered; I used Tamiya primer, and black decanted Tamiya rattle can.

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