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Cockpit Photoetch guide

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  • Member since
    January, 2015
Cockpit Photoetch guide
Posted by TheMongoose on Saturday, February 25, 2017 7:26 PM

I am getting ready to start the cockpit on my Thunderbird's F-4E Phantom. I'd like to get some advice on how to apply the PE before I get started :-)

What's the best way to remove the raised detail on the current panels so I don't scratch up the sections I'm not removing?

Do you prep the PE with something before painting it? I have the canopy set and it will need painted. 

I may post this over in aircraft to try and catch some of the Phantom builders too.

1/32 F-4E Phantom II

 

On the bench - 1/72 Sptfire MkVb & for a change of pace a 1/700 USS New York

 

  • Member since
    January, 2017
  • From: East Gippsland, Victoria, Australia
Posted by damouav on Saturday, February 25, 2017 8:15 PM

I have used jeweler's files (or minature small file) and with great care, my dremel with an appropriate attachment. Finish off with sanding stick before attaching PE.

 

Alternatively, you can try scrapping the detail off with a sharp hobby knife.

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  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 26, 2017 3:00 AM

I use a set of needle files and the sanding atachment for my miny drill for larger parts. Thoughi would have done this before any assembely. Not sure what you mean about needing painting, do you mean the PE.

 

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Dragon 1/35th Pz II Ausf F

  • Member since
    January, 2015
Posted by TheMongoose on Sunday, February 26, 2017 8:13 AM

Yep, painting the PE. when brush painting the paint doesn't seem to want to stick, regular testors paints  look more like they are clear. Made me wonder if it needs a special primer for bare metal?

On the bench - 1/72 Sptfire MkVb & for a change of pace a 1/700 USS New York

 

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 26, 2017 8:22 AM

That's a pre coloured PE set, which is why i was confused as to why you want to paint it. Normally PE does not need anything special, but it may be what is used to colur it is resisting the paint.

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Dragon 1/35th Pz II Ausf F

  • Member since
    January, 2015
Posted by TheMongoose on Sunday, February 26, 2017 11:32 AM

Sorry, i see where i caused the confusion. The set comes with the canopy parts too and those have to be painted. I only have the pre painted instrument panel in the pic. 

On the bench - 1/72 Sptfire MkVb & for a change of pace a 1/700 USS New York

 

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Sunday, February 26, 2017 11:36 AM

Now i got ur. Well, not sure why your having issues painting it. You say your brush painting, are you useing Acrylics.

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Dragon 1/35th Pz II Ausf F

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Far Northern CA
Posted by mrmike on Sunday, February 26, 2017 1:43 PM

There are a couple things to know about finishing "raw" PE. First is to wash the fret in a mild solution of household vinegar and rinse well. This takes off any residue from the etching process and preps the metal. Second is to prime it with a good quality metal primer. I use an automotive metal primer that contains an etching chemical to help it "bite".

With these two easy steps you can go ahead and finish using either acrylic or enamel paints and expect good results. Hope this will help you!

Mike

  • Member since
    January, 2015
Posted by TheMongoose on Sunday, February 26, 2017 7:43 PM

I was using testors enamels on the one set of PE that I did previously. This set will be done with Vallejo acrylics. I'll try washing and prepping the pe this time.

On the bench - 1/72 Sptfire MkVb & for a change of pace a 1/700 USS New York

 

  • Member since
    December, 2002
  • From: Bury St Edmunds, Suffolk, England
Posted by Bish on Monday, February 27, 2017 1:58 AM

That is strange that this is happening. I have never washed PE and only recently started priming, but usually airbrush it. See if washing helps, there must be somthing that is reacting against the paint.

 ''I am a Norfolk man, and I glory in being so''

  

On the bench: Dragon 1/35th Pz II Ausf F

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, March 03, 2017 10:26 AM

I hear a lot about washing pe and we have our own ways of doing things that we feel comfortable with. I  have to say that but I have never washed pe and have gotten excellent results with airbrushing the pe to be painted such as the canopy mechanism as an example. I use MM enamels and no primer and the paints sticks just fine. However, Vallejo will scratch off easily if not primed with an enamel primer.

To remove the raised details I use  a chisel exacto blade and sanding sticks.  If it's not self adhesive then I either use Aleenes Tacky Glue or Gorilla Super Glue Gel. 

  • Member since
    January, 2015
Posted by TheMongoose on Monday, March 06, 2017 6:01 PM

ok I think I have a good method down now. I got the gorilla super glue and that is working way better than the tamiya thin or medium superglue. I watched Aaron's video on doing this and it looks like I'm doing it right but my PE parts don't stick together wihth just the thin glue, even just to hold them until I can apply a heavier glue.

I used automotive acid etching primer since I had that around for a car project. I washed the parts in white vinegar and then applied 3 light coats of the primer. This worked much better than my last experience with painting PE. I still had some mottling of the primer on the 1st coat so next time I will try washing the PE in a plastic bowl rather than sponging it down. The Vallejo paint covered in 1 coat after this.

On the bench - 1/72 Sptfire MkVb & for a change of pace a 1/700 USS New York

 

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