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Attaching plastic to metal

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  • Member since
    June 2017
Attaching plastic to metal
Posted by plane nuts on Monday, July 10, 2017 2:02 PM

This may have been covered elsewhere, but I couldn't find it, so...

I purchased two Tamiya 6 x 6 truck models, an airplane re-fueling truck and a cargo truck. Got the re-fueling truck last week and and all is going well.  Just got the cargo truck and find, although the plastic parts, instructions, etc are quite similar, the latter truck has a metal chassis (not yet sure whether or not I like that). Is there anything special I need to know about attaching plastic parts to the metal chassis?

In a related question, are the kits with metal chassis older kits while the newer kits are plastic throughout?  If so, how does one know the difference when puchasing a kit?

TIA for any insghts.

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Monday, July 10, 2017 2:13 PM

No idea on telling them apart other than going to reviews or the makers website for a kit rundown.

As for attaching metal to plastic either CA (superglue) or clear epoxy.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Monday, July 10, 2017 2:13 PM

I use super glue or epoxy to attach metal to plastic. SG works really well. 

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    November 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Tuesday, July 11, 2017 10:52 AM

Ditto.

I have not tried the new UV hardening stuff to do that yet, but I intend to try it.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    December 2013
  • From: Orlando Florida
Posted by route62 on Tuesday, July 11, 2017 11:13 AM

When mating dissimilar parts like metal to plastic I try to use epoxy over super glue as much as possible as super glue is brittle and tends to get very brittle over time.  I have had parts fall off after a couple of years in my display case due to super glue failure. 

Depending on the situation super glue may be the only option but it is something to consider.

  • Member since
    March 2015
  • From: Close to Chicago
Posted by JohnnyK on Tuesday, July 11, 2017 12:33 PM

what epoxy do you use? I have had problems with epoxy.

Your comments and questions are always welcome.

  • Member since
    August 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Tuesday, July 11, 2017 1:15 PM

I use JB Weld 5 min clear, in the .85 oz. double tuEasy to dispense and mix, and you can just push out what you need, not much waste.

  • Member since
    June 2017
Posted by plane nuts on Tuesday, July 11, 2017 1:26 PM

Depending on the circumstances, I use clear parts glue, the standard "hobby glue" in the tube and the liquid "capillary action" type glues.  I have not tried CA or epoxy adhesives. I need JB weld for another (home repair) project, so I think I will try that.

  • Member since
    March 2016
Posted by ardvark002 on Tuesday, July 11, 2017 5:00 PM
plane nuts, I have always lightly sanded the metal and used clear gorilla two part epoxy. Works for me. Aardvark
  • Member since
    December 2013
  • From: Orlando Florida
Posted by route62 on Tuesday, July 11, 2017 6:30 PM

 I tend to use the hardware store epoxy that comes in side by side syringes.  I get 5,30,and 1 hour epoxy.  That way I can use the cure speed I need based on application.  I separate the syringes into two so that I can dispense part a and b separate and mix on a pallet when I am ready.

The brand is usually loktite but the brand usually does not matter since I am not interested in the bond strength as much as not getting brittle over time.  Even cheap epoxy is strong enough for models.  I have used harbor freight epoxy on builds that are years old now with no issues.

  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: Sonora Desert
Posted by stikpusher on Tuesday, July 11, 2017 8:55 PM

Gator Glue is another option for attaching metal and styrene. I used CA on my Tamiya 1/48 Panther for the same purpose. 

A side blurb on the metal parts on some 1/48 Tamiya kits. I don't know how true this is, but supposedly the reason for the metal hulls or chassis was due to some sort of family business deal. A relative of the Tamiya's had a metal business that was needing more business. The model company then added that feature to incorporate them to their 1:48 Armor line. At least that's what was told to us at a recent AMPS meeting by a member in the know about the Tamiya 1:48 line.

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    June 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Wednesday, July 12, 2017 4:04 PM

I hear you !

 What I have been doing is using Bondic Brand .That's the one with the U.V. light for setting it . Plus refills can be had at Hobby Lobby , Home Depot and Hobby Town

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