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It's official... I HATE working with Photo Etch!

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  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: Denver, Colorado
It's official... I HATE working with Photo Etch!
Posted by MrStecks on Monday, August 28, 2017 9:38 AM

Arghhh!  I hate working with PE!  I've started the Eduard 1/32 P-47 Dottie Mae, and it comes with loads of beautifully crafted PE.  I assumed that working with it would be easier in this larger scale, but it's actually worse!  So much more detail, which means tons of intricate bending! And the "instructions" only show the finished pieces, without telling you the correct order of bending the bits!

Arghhh!  Is it really worth all this agravation?  Oh and then there's the CA glue!  How... HOW do I keep gluing random bits of scrap plastic to my elbows?

Ugh...  (pant, pant, pant...) sorry for the rant.  I just had to get that off my chest.  The build is um, progressing.  Slowly.  With lots of shouting. 

Mark

 


On the bench: Eduard 1/32 P-47 Dottie Mae

In the queue: Eduard 1/48 F6F-3 Weekend Edition;  Tamiya 1/32 P-51 Mustang;  Eduard F2 190A-9 ProfiPACK Edition;  WNW 1/32 Fokker D.VII (Fok.) "Early";  Revell 1/48 B-25J;  AMT 1/48 Lockheed Vega;  AMT 1/48 Stinson Reliant SR-9;  Revell 1/48 TBF Avenger;  Hasegawa 1/48 Nakajima E8N1 Type 95 Reconnaissance Seaplane (DAVE) Model 1

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, August 28, 2017 9:51 AM

Somehow I managed to model for 40 years without it.

Hang in there. Definitely doesn't mix with being frustrated.

 

  • Member since
    August, 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Monday, August 28, 2017 10:14 AM

Juat a few little tips from your Uncle Jay to ease your pain;  I've done lots of PE and here's the techniques that work for me.

No fancy benders for me ,I use a pair of wood chisels or a combination of a razor blade and a #17 or #18 Xacto blade (the flat chisel type)

 

 

 I use Gel CA, easier to work with in most cases. Dab the part into a blob of CA and wipe some off if you hafta.

To help eliminate the part from pinging off into the wilderness from your tweezers use a "sticky stick " to handle/hold the tiny parts when glueing. You can buy them or make your own with a tiny dab of blue tack or modeling clay on a toothpick. I use "Drum Stick Wax" from a music store. Stick the part to the toothpick, dab into the CA and install, wait a few seconds and the PE will come free of the toothpick.

For me a large lighted magnifier is a must ( old eyes don't cha know )

I hope this helps, happy modeling.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    May, 2013
  • From: From the Mit, but live in Mason, O high ho
Posted by hogfanfs on Monday, August 28, 2017 10:19 AM

I use Gator Glue here for PE. It allows much more setting time, and is water soluble. 

  • Member since
    January, 2009
  • From: hamburg michigan
Posted by fermis on Monday, August 28, 2017 10:19 AM

You're not supposed to be using CA on your elbows!

There's a reason momma said, "keep your elbows off the table!!!

Propeller

For CA...I use a palette (in my case, I use the foil from a Nesquik container...a piece of foil or plastic lid...about anything really will work). I put a drop of CA on that (kept a short reach away....away from elbows!), and use the pointy end of a piece of stretched sprue to transfer the CA to the part, or in the case of very small parts, I'll put the glue to where the part is going to end up.

I get your frustration with the somewhat vague-ness of the folding instructions...that can get quite frustrating! Figuring that stuff out is part of the fun though, too!

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, August 28, 2017 12:26 PM

Jay Jay

Juat a few little tips from your Uncle Jay to ease your pain;  I've done lots of PE and here's the techniques that work for me.

No fancy benders for me ,I use a pair of wood chisels or a combination of a razor blade and a #17 or #18 Xacto blade (the flat chisel type)

 

 

 I use Gel CA, easier to work with in most cases. Dab the part into a blob of CA and wipe some off if you hafta.

To help eliminate the part from pinging off into the wilderness from your tweezers use a "sticky stick " to handle/hold the tiny parts when glueing. You can buy them or make your own with a tiny dab of blue tack or modeling clay on a toothpick. I use "Drum Stick Wax" from a music store. Stick the part to the toothpick, dab into the CA and install, wait a few seconds and the PE will come free of the toothpick.

For me a large lighted magnifier is a must ( old eyes don't cha know )

I hope this helps, happy modeling.

 

I second JJ's comments.  I also use CA gel to tack the PE in place, but for larger pieces go back and finish with thinned white glue (1:1).  This works well on long pieces like ship railings and such.

In some cases I even use the white glue mix for the primary glue.  Most PE parts are so light and low inertia that you do not need a very strong bond, as long as you do not drop the model too frequently :-)

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March, 2007
  • From: Northeast WA State
Posted by armornut on Monday, August 28, 2017 1:24 PM

I will echo the above Mr. Stecks, while PE can and most of the time is an exercise in frustration and Websters "street thesaurus" the results and satifaction of getting it right make it worth the effort. This may sound silly but try outlining your pieces that you have to bend on a piece of card stock, place indications of where the fold line is, then cut the piece out and fold it up. It may help you determine what side of the object needs to be addressed first and so forth. If it gets to the point of AAAARRRRGGGGHHHH, WALK AWAY for a while,  cool down and approach it later. As for glue EVERYWHERE.....man that is just an unfortunate side effect of building, I wind up with fiddly bits in....well you get the point. Good luck, have fun and of course ask.

we're modelers it's what we do

  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by MrStecks on Monday, August 28, 2017 1:28 PM

Thanks for the tips and support guys.  I did switch to a CA gel on this build, that worked well for the most part.  But there was one large part last night that just instantly set up, I don't know why.  And of course, it was crooked.  Some shouting ensued.  I quickly grabbed a razor blade and tried to get under it to loosen.  Only succeded in bending up a corner, causing some of the paint to flake off.  There was quite a bit more shouting at this point.  lol

Never thought about trying the thinned white glue.  I'll give it a try tonight.  So far I haven't lost any parts to the carpet monster, though I kind of wish I had.  hahaha...

Cheers, Mark


On the bench: Eduard 1/32 P-47 Dottie Mae

In the queue: Eduard 1/48 F6F-3 Weekend Edition;  Tamiya 1/32 P-51 Mustang;  Eduard F2 190A-9 ProfiPACK Edition;  WNW 1/32 Fokker D.VII (Fok.) "Early";  Revell 1/48 B-25J;  AMT 1/48 Lockheed Vega;  AMT 1/48 Stinson Reliant SR-9;  Revell 1/48 TBF Avenger;  Hasegawa 1/48 Nakajima E8N1 Type 95 Reconnaissance Seaplane (DAVE) Model 1

  • Member since
    May, 2017
  • From: Denver, Colorado
Posted by MrStecks on Monday, August 28, 2017 1:32 PM

armornut

...This may sound silly but try outlining your pieces that you have to bend on a piece of card stock, place indications of where the fold line is, then cut the piece out and fold it up. It may help you determine what side of the object needs to be addressed first and so forth.

 

Oh, that's a good idea.  This one particular piece that drove me nuts last night involved five different folds that all piled up on one another.  I'm not sure my order was correct, but it seemed to stack up okay. 

Cheers, Mark


On the bench: Eduard 1/32 P-47 Dottie Mae

In the queue: Eduard 1/48 F6F-3 Weekend Edition;  Tamiya 1/32 P-51 Mustang;  Eduard F2 190A-9 ProfiPACK Edition;  WNW 1/32 Fokker D.VII (Fok.) "Early";  Revell 1/48 B-25J;  AMT 1/48 Lockheed Vega;  AMT 1/48 Stinson Reliant SR-9;  Revell 1/48 TBF Avenger;  Hasegawa 1/48 Nakajima E8N1 Type 95 Reconnaissance Seaplane (DAVE) Model 1

  • Member since
    January, 2017
Posted by ecotec83 on Monday, August 28, 2017 5:51 PM

Wish i had some useful advice, but i don't. My first time using photo etch was an eduard kit on a tamiya panther tank. Between the tiny parts, ca glue malfunctions, broken bends, vague and scary instructions (i.e remove this, file this, cut this off) and the inability to envision where parts needed to be bent it was a bad experience. I eventually ended up going through the whole instruction sheet and crossed off anything I felt was not worth the time or would add little to the build.  I may have even come up with a few new curse words while doing it.

  • Member since
    April, 2009
  • From: Longmont, Colorado
Posted by Cadet Chuck on Monday, August 28, 2017 8:19 PM

If I happen to buy a kit with PE in it, the first thing I do is throw it out!!!  If you somehow manage to appy it, you can't see it on the finished model, anyhow.  Waste of time.

Computer, did we bring batteries?.....Computer?

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Monday, August 28, 2017 9:06 PM

Sort of tongue in cheek...the geniuses who design the stuff sure don't do it at the scale in which it is cut.

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