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Using Bondo

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  • Member since
    June, 2017
  • From: Pottsboro,Tx
Using Bondo
Posted by Mars on Wednesday, September 20, 2017 10:28 AM

I noticed, on a plane I built about a year ago, that the Tamiya putty I used shrank over time. Has anyone used Bondo on their models?

  • Member since
    January, 2013
Posted by BlackSheepTwoOneFour on Wednesday, September 20, 2017 1:13 PM

Bondo is for bodywork on cars, not plastuic kits. So no on Bondo. Most of us use putty specially made and used for plastic kits, be it Perfect Putty, Tamiya putty, etc...

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Wednesday, September 20, 2017 1:21 PM

No, not the body panel stuff, but their glazing compound is very useful. It's not too expensive, and dries quickly and sands well.

 

  • Member since
    August, 2005
  • From: Mansfield, TX
Posted by EdGrune on Wednesday, September 20, 2017 2:45 PM

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

Bondo is for bodywork on cars, not plastuic kits. So no on Bondo. Most of us use putty specially made and used for plastic kits, be it Perfect Putty, Tamiya putty, etc...

 

 
Disagree.  Don't limit yourself to hobby items that only have a hobby manufacturer's name on them
 
Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty (Bondo Red) is an excellent seam filler for plastic models.   It is a solvent putty - same as Squadron Green,  Squadron White,  3M, and several others.   It is the same stuff, repackaged, as Dr MicroTools red putty.    It has its advantages,  it is a fine grain and sands & feathers well.  It is inexpensive, a 4.5 oz tube is less than the cost of a smaller tube with a hobby manufacturer's logo.   It is widely available at auto supply stores (Pep Boys, Auto Zone, O'Rileys, Menards, etc.)  Disadvantages include an overnight drying time, shrinkage, surface etching due to the solvent, and softening plastic if you use it to imbed noseweight then enclose the fuselage with no place for the solvent to evaporate to (ask me how I know this).
 
Geez Alert:  Squadron came out with their first body putty 30 to 40 years ago when they found out that the California car modelers were using 'real' body putty to make their custom creations.  They packaged some 'real' putty in smaller, more modeler-friendly packages at not a greater price discount.  IIRC Testors also had some - a cellulose based product - that had attrocious grain and didn't sand well.
 
Bondo also makes a Professional Glazing & Spot Putty (Bondo White).  This is a 2-part catelyzed putty.   Non-solvent, you mix the hardener with the putty squeezed from the tube.   Mix a quarter-sized dab of resin with a peas sized dab of hardener.   You can control the working time with the amount of hardener used.   Fast hardening,  very fine grain, non-shrinking.  Sands & feathers well.   This is great for the occasions where you are on a roll and don't want to wait overnight for the solvent putty to dry.  Available at the auto stores mentioned -- and I think I may have seen it at Lowes Hardware
 
Bondo Body Filler -- in the can is very similar to Bondo White.   The benefit here is that it comes in a larger package which is great when you need more for the scratchbuild project you are working on.   Grain isn't as fine as Bondo White,  but it still sands & feathers well.  Inexpensive.  Another trade name I've seen it under is Evercoat.  Definately seen in Lowes, Home Depot, & Ace hardware.    I've used it for more than plastic hobby work.   It also has had some applications around the house.
 
More esoteric stuff -- Google Buzz Budzik for his Youtube videos.  He is a dentist by training and he swears by dental resin (magic pink powder & water) for filling.
 
Like I said,  don't limit yourself to only model products which have a model manufacturer's name on them.   There are many equivalent products from other disciplines.   Where do you think the hobby industry came up with them -- definately not R&D on their own nickel!  Keep your head on a swivel and be ready to try new things.
 
 
  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by modelmaker66 on Wednesday, September 20, 2017 3:15 PM

I use the Bondo glazing and spot putty exclusively and it is the best filler I have ever used.

  • Member since
    September, 2013
Posted by Marcus McBean on Wednesday, September 20, 2017 10:05 PM

I used Bondo on a 1/96 freighter I am slowly building.  At 4 feet long Bondo was the only way I was going to be able to fill in the seams and stay sane.  It sanded very easy and was easier to use than I thought it would be. I just had to remember to make a batch I could use before it started to get hard without leaving any leftover.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, September 21, 2017 9:00 AM

The reason I use auto spot/glazing putty is cost.  While a big tube costs more than the small tubes sold in hobby shops, the cost per ounze comes out much cheaper. It is a cost savings, as long as you remember to put the cap on immediately after squeezing out some (if whole tube goes hard from leaving the cap off you lose your investment).  I have had my current tube for about five years, and umpteen models.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    March, 2015
Posted by JohnnyK on Thursday, September 21, 2017 12:21 PM

I an currently building a 1/48 scale B-29. I will need to fill the long joints in the wings and fuselage. I will try using the glazing/spot putty. 

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, September 21, 2017 1:03 PM

I'd respond as follows, Johnny. I'm just an OK modeler, but I have never been any good at putting natural metal finishes over putty. I know it can be done, but it is really difficult.

My own approach, FWIW and that's not much, would be to really work at getting the best mechanical connection you can, to the point where the liquid cement causes melted plastic to close the gaps.

  • Member since
    July, 2004
  • From: Sunny So. Cal... The OC
Posted by stikpusher on Thursday, September 21, 2017 6:01 PM

I like using gel CA for a lot of my gap filling. It won't crack, chip, or shrink like some putties do, and can be sanded and polished to a mirror smooth finish if need be. 

Ya just have to start your sanding during the "sweet spot" of the drying process. Too soon and you may end up with some not yet dried stuff in your sanding stick. Wait too long after it dried and cured and you'll be dealing with a substance as hard as steel and sand away much of the surrounding area. 

I've never tried bondo myself, so I can't say anything for or against it.  But there are so many products out there for the same purpose.  

 

F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!

U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!

N is for NO SURVIVORS...

       - Plankton

LSM

 

  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Sunday, September 24, 2017 12:13 PM

Mark ;

 Right on the money there . BONDO has it's uses in modeling .If your'e going to fill in or contour plastic . Make sure to sand the surface with 320 grit .That will give the BONDO a better grip .

    Yes it is hotter than Regular plastic putty . I feel it works and feathers better . Finish up with primer and touch up with 3-M Spot glazing Putty .

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, September 25, 2017 9:15 AM

Tanker - Builder

Mark ;

 Right on the money there . BONDO has it's uses in modeling .If your'e going to fill in or contour plastic . Make sure to sand the surface with 320 grit .That will give the BONDO a better grip .

    Yes it is hotter than Regular plastic putty . I feel it works and feathers better . Finish up with primer and touch up with 3-M Spot glazing Putty .

 

A bit confused with your post, Tanker-builder.  Do you mean using the Bondo spot putty, or the Bondo brand two-part polyester filler?  Bondo as a brand makes both. If you mean the spot putty, why use two brands of spot putty?

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

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