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Use rubber latex gloves to hold the part then use a small flat file.Rotate while you lightly file.Next glue the part and blend with liquid cement.Let dry then inspect.Now sand with sand paper in place.
I use my Dremel as a quasi-lathe in this way, too.
The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.
Hi;
If I am going to replace the part , with one more to my liking . I just find the right size sprue chunk , maybe just a little oversize .( To allow for sanding ) Chuck it in my drill and then use files or sanding sticks I get at the beauty supply store .( They are an inch wide ).
Never have had problems this way . Just don't forget . When you do this .Make sure the part is centered in the chuck by giving it a gentle turn and watching the piece . T.B.
ugamodels A jeep fire extinguisher is about the diameter o f lead in a #2 pencil.
A jeep fire extinguisher is about the diameter o f lead in a #2 pencil.
Depends on scale. A 1:32 or 1:35 extinquisher would be about 3/32 inch. 1:24 scale about 1/8 inch, easy to work with.
Don Stauffer in Minnesota
I type on a tablet. Please excuse the terseness and the autocorrect. Not to mention the erors.
Interesting idea! I should have tried that.
Here's something I did today.
The ship kit I am working on came with undersized propellers, with the wrong number of blades. I have PE blades as part of the larger set, but they require reuse of the hubs.
Cutting off the blades left stubs.
So I took a twist drill that is a good force fit into the hole in the hub, chucked it up in a drill motor, and turned it at medium speed with a file, and then sand paper.
Before:
After:
Modeling is an excuse to buy books.
A work-around for something like that is to find styrene stock rod or tubing the same diameter as the existing extinquisher. If you can find it, cut a piece to length, saw off the top end of extinquisher and glue it on end. Before you cut the tubing to length, sand or file the rounding over on the bottom end by twirling the stock in your fingers while you hold sandpaper or needle file against it.
Even with a Flexi-file you can still end up with flat spots if you are not careful. I keep the sanding stick moving, change the sanding pattern, slightly increase the sanding area around the central area you are sanding so it blends in better with the part. Don't use a heavy hand, go lightly.
stikpusher Rotate the item that you're sanding and well as change the angle of your sanding stick as you rotate the item. Sand around the circumference and not along the length of the cylinder. Not up and down, side to side. -Mr Miyagi
Rotate the item that you're sanding and well as change the angle of your sanding stick as you rotate the item. Sand around the circumference and not along the length of the cylinder.
Not up and down, side to side.
-Mr Miyagi
This is the method i use.
I have a flexi file that i use on fuselages and the like but i find i still get flat spots.
I am a Norfolk man and i glory in being so
On the bench: Airfix 1/72nd Harrier GR.3/Fujimi 1/72nd Ju 87D-3
You need a "Flex-i-File!" It's the perfect solution to your question.
http://www.flex-i-file.com/flex-i-file.php
Gimme a pigfoot, and a bottle of beer...
F is for FIRE, That burns down the whole town!
U is for URANIUM... BOMBS!
N is for NO SURVIVORS...
- Plankton
LSM
I'm sure you will get better response's , but what I use sometime's , is tamiya sanding sponge's . their is give in it , doesn't create flat spot's , hope this help's .
steve5
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I needed to sand off the mounting plate for a fire extinguisher for a jeep (to use the PE bracket ). I scraped with a knife and attempted to sand. The result is not round, although it probably doesn't matter in this instance, as it will be hidden.
But how do you sand small round cylinders and keep them round?
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