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Gluing post painting - Tips/Technique?

3 replies
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  • Member since
    September, 2017
Gluing post painting - Tips/Technique?
Posted by Chris JT on Friday, December 08, 2017 4:39 PM

Hi All,

I am just after on some tips on gluing post painting. As an example in a lot of tutorials the control surfaces are painted separately and then glued on post weathering, same goes for pylons/weapons and the like.

Of course ideally I'd be be using a hot action glue as it cures so quickly but this is very risky with the paint. I have CA, PVA and the testors clear parts cement which are both slow to dry which makes setting parts quite difficult and I also find the testors dries with a yellow hue.

Any tips on the best glue/technique to use?


  • Member since
    May, 2009
  • From: Poland
Posted by Pawel on Friday, December 08, 2017 5:31 PM


I always recommend glueing as much stuff as practicable before painting (and it's a lot). Sometimes it's better to leave a subassembly off, but it's mostly when the partition is practicable for glueing.

When the joint is OK I scrape the paint away and use lacquer thinner for glueing. Sometimes I take CA (risky!) and for things like chrome emblems on a high gloss finish there's nothing like white glue - because you can was it down when it gets where it doesn't belong.

Some setting time is desirable to allow for corrections when glueing and maybe some cleanup should something go wrong.

I heard, that light (UV)-hardening resins, like those used in the dental industry are latest fashion now - didn't try any yet.

What do you mean by "hot action glue"?

Good luck with your builds and have a nice day


All comments and critique welcomed. Thanks for your honest opinions!

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Friday, December 08, 2017 6:16 PM

I know what you mean. Bombs in particular. Try CA and Zip Kick.

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Sunday, December 10, 2017 10:52 AM

I find many times I must glue painted surfaces (or a painted to an unpainted surface) together.  I always then try to remove at least some of the paint. In some cases I can remove it by scraping with a knife blade. If not, I use a pin vise and small drill bit and drill a line of small holes in area of bond.


Don Stauffer in Minnesota


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