HELP! HELP!

The fogging is fine etching that occurred when the CA glue cured and gave off fumes.

It's possible to remove the canopy, and then to try to polish it out, sanding and polishing with ever-finer grades of sandpaper and polishing pads, and then dipping the canopy in clear acrylic, but that might be more work than you're willing to apply.  I'd use the spare you have, or look for a new canopy, like a vacuform, if available.

Dip the clear parts in Future Floor Polish,( aka Future), that will help keep the glue fog at bay. You can also try simple white, ( Elmers ), glue applied with a toothpick.

     As for painting, I have never had any trouble painting Tamyia canopies however it has been along time since I built an aircraft. I would think that the dip in Future would help here too.

As was said before I always coat my clear parts with Pledge then I can use any type glue to cement them in place. As for painting the canopy try SpruBrothers or Scalehobbyist for Eduard paint mask the mask you need comes in both 1/48 and 1/72 it will have all the different pieces you need to do your Lancaster GOOD LUCK              ACESES5           

Crazypat, I tried to get Pledge or Future in Australia and could not get it BUT I brought Long Life Self Shining Floor Polish from Bunnings. The Bunnings web site says not to use on Plastic HOWEVER the bottle states and the Pascoe's web site (addlifetoyourfloors.com.au) states Use on linoleum, vinyl, plastic, rubber, sealed wood and sealed cork to give your floors that final finish.. It is about $12 per bottle but is 1 litre so should last for ages (unless you start using it on the floors!!!). The web site also says it is avaliable at Woolworths or IGA but I could not see on Woolworths web site but it is on Bunnings web site.

BEFORE DOING ANY SANDING...

...try cleaning up the 'frosted' areas with denatured alcohol on a cotton swab. Sometimes the haze is just CA fumes that reacted with moisture in the air, and will wipe away fairly easily.

Worth a try. Might save a bunch of time and trouble

Les.61

Crazypat, I tried to get Pledge or Future in Australia and could not get it BUT I brought Long Life Self Shining Floor Polish from Bunnings. The Bunnings web site says not to use on Plastic HOWEVER the bottle states and the Pascoe's web site (addlifetoyourfloors.com.au) states Use on linoleum, vinyl, plastic, rubber, sealed wood and sealed cork to give your floors that final finish.. It is about $12 per bottle but is 1 litre so should last for ages (unless you start using it on the floors!!!). The web site also says it is avaliable at Woolworths or IGA but I could not see on Woolworths web site but it is on Bunnings web site.

 

thanks les will give it ago dont see many stralians on this foram good to catch up with ya.

gregbale

BEFORE DOING ANY SANDING...

...try cleaning up the 'frosted' areas with denatured alcohol on a cotton swab. Sometimes the haze is just CA fumes that reacted with moisture in the air, and will wipe away fairly easily.

Worth a try. Might save a bunch of time and trouble

 

will try cleaning it is that stuff the same as metho?

crazypat

that stuff the same as metho?

Correct-a-mundo. Methylated spirit.

gregbale

 

 

crazypat

that stuff the same as metho?

 

 

Correct-a-mundo. Methylated spirit.

 

thanks

I'm sorry to hear of your mishap.  I have done the same thing, and was unable to fix it.  My solution was to dump the whole thing into the trash can.  I would suggest trying to find a replacement clear canopy, otherwise the trash can is the answer.

Les.61

Crazypat, I tried to get Pledge or Future in Australia and could not get it BUT I brought Long Life Self Shining Floor Polish from Bunnings. The Bunnings web site says not to use on Plastic HOWEVER the bottle states and the Pascoe's web site (addlifetoyourfloors.com.au) states Use on linoleum, vinyl, plastic, rubber, sealed wood and sealed cork to give your floors that final finish.. It is about $12 per bottle but is 1 litre so should last for ages (unless you start using it on the floors!!!). The web site also says it is avaliable at Woolworths or IGA but I could not see on Woolworths web site but it is on Bunnings web site.

 

Dont bother with the Long Life floor cleaner.

Nope, they are toast, vegemite added.

You could certainly find some new ones. If you'd Pledge on first, it would have worked.

But it's tough, I've had canopies fog when I glued in the tail wheel.

thanks greg cleaned the canopy with metho came out just like new ataching it with pva wite glue and is all good thanks

crazypat

thanks greg cleaned the canopy with metho came out just like new ataching it with pva wite glue and is all good thanks

Glad to hear it!

Just remember...we want photos when it's done.

I have started using that UV hardening glue, that comes with a laser (probably actually a very blue LED). It works great!  It does not fog transparent plastic and is far stronger than the white glue based canopy cements.

I was a little apprehensive about the cost, but I have probably used it on a dozen kits, and just now replaced it.  Worth it!

I am enthusiastically with Don as to the UV-cure resin "5-Second Fix" type adhesives. A bit pricey 'off the shelf' (though there are good deals to be found you-know-where, if you don't mind shipping from China), it's one of the few "as seen on TV" products that actually seems to work as advertised.

A godsend for clear parts---easy to wipe away excess, before you hit it with the UV light, and dries hard and crystal-clear, with actual strength that the PVA-type glues don't have. Can even be sanded, if need be, with about the same hardness as styrene, and fine-sanded/polished/buffed out to restore clarity if required.

Great stuff! (And credit where it's due, I was actually put onto it originally by one of Mr. Stauffer's earlier posts!)

You diggers should come with subtitles.  Is "metho" methyl alcohol, aka methanol?  And did applying it to the fogged parts actually restore them to a clear state?

Don Stauffer

I have started using that UV hardening glue, that comes with a laser (probably actually a very blue LED). It works great!  It does not fog transparent plastic and is far stronger than the white glue based canopy cements.

I was a little apprehensive about the cost, but I have probably used it on a dozen kits, and just now replaced it.  Worth it!

I think that's similar to the UV-curing resins used in dentistry.

the Baron

 

 

Don Stauffer

I have started using that UV hardening glue, that comes with a laser (probably actually a very blue LED). It works great!  It does not fog transparent plastic and is far stronger than the white glue based canopy cements.

I was a little apprehensive about the cost, but I have probably used it on a dozen kits, and just now replaced it.  Worth it!

 

 

 

I think that's similar to the UV-curing resins used in dentistry.

 

the Baron

You diggers should come with subtitles.  Is "metho" methyl alcohol, aka methanol?  And did applying it to the fogged parts actually restore them to a clear state?

 

the Baron

You diggers should come with subtitles.  Is "metho" methyl alcohol, aka methanol?  And did applying it to the fogged parts actually restore them to a clear state?

 

sorry about the absance of subtitles, but it is about time you learnt some true blue Aussie slang. yes i did use methylated spirits 99% pure ethanal and after a fair bit of elbo grease with a cotten bud diped in the stuff it came off. and you can see straight through them like factory. also those who sejested the UV glue i will look into it.

for those of you that wanted photos they are under the Lancaster section on the blog on my website https://collinsp19.wixsite.com/thehobbymodelingguy.

gregbale

I am enthusiastically with Don as to the UV-cure resin "5-Second Fix" type adhesives. A bit pricey 'off the shelf' (though there are good deals to be found you-know-where, if you don't mind shipping from China), it's one of the few "as seen on TV" products that actually seems to work as advertised.

 

I picked up mine from my local building supply/hardware store (Menards).  It was ten bucks, but used it for all clear parts in about a dozen models, so I don't think it was that expensive (10 bucks).

Great move.