Seasoned Modeler....with Wash Phobia - HELP!

So, I've been using the MIG washes and here's what I've noticed.  First, I don't take the wash and put a coat over the entire model.  I do it in pin washes.  Second, I let it dry for 5-10 minutes or so.  Third, if I want streaks, I take a Q-tip lightly moistened in regular old Testor's enamel thinner, and gently clean the lines in the direction of airflow.  If I don't want streaks, I take a dry Q-tip and gently rub at the places where I don't want the wash.  I stress gently.  No need to go full bore on it.

Thanks!  Seen and read ‘pin’ wash many times.  I need a remedial instruction here: what is a pin wash?  Details please - and thanks!!!

Yeah High Wycombe! A pin wash is when you use a small brush to apply a wash to just panel lines, rivets or other areas instead of all over wash. Typically you can just touch the brush to one part of the panel line and capillary action will move it along the rest of the panel line (if the wash is thin enough that is).

Mix your media. 

If you paint in acrylics, seal with Future or a compatible clear GLOSS paint.  Make your wash with an organic solvent, mineral spirits, turpentin, Turpenoid, Humbrol, etc.  It should be ‘mild’,  not an aggressive material such as lacquer thinner.  Apply your wash and wick it off with the same thinner. 

If you paint in enamels seal with  compatible clear GLOSS paint such as Model Master,  Humbrol or your favorite.   Make your wash from an acrylic solvent (water, alcohol) and use  acrylic paints for the color.   Apply and wick as before

Use a GLOSS sealer as it allows the wash material to be manipulated better   Flats have pigment particles which trap the wash pigments resulting in a ‘cloudy‘ or stained appearance

CLear gloss also allows you to fix mistakes better.  Happy with your paint job - seal it and try the wash. Not happy with the wash - remove it and try again.  Happy with it - seal it and move to your nex step; a second wash, pastels, etc

So - Future for acrylic finish only?   And some other type gloss for enamel finish?  All my gloss coats are water based - Model Master.  Micro Sol.  Never have used an enamel gloss other than out of a spray can. the kit I am working on has a Tamiya spray can finish - so I need something other than Future to coat it based on your feedback?

If you're using an acrylic gloss clear, use an enamel or oil based wash as mentioned above.

Future is an acrylic gloss clear coat.

Everyone else is going to think I am crazy ;

 When I do a wash on a ship I wait till all the hull numbers and stuff have dried , under that coat of semi-gloss clear Acrylic .( yeah I know , I said , I hate the stuff , but I am starting to see the merit thereof . )

 Now I then get the good paint lids out .These are Model Master sized lids .Fill each one with distilled water and then load my Mini-Palette with the colors I'll need . I have then dipped a brush in the water ,then the tip in the paint , and starting at the main Deck dragged the brush downward and backward , Lightly .

 Then come back with a flat brush and distilled water and almost dry , drag it further down in the right direction . This is new for me too . But I have a very old model I did this with enamels forty years ago . I am doing , What is it ? learning from my mistakes .

 I do advise this . If you don't like what you see , Immediately remove it with a soft Make-Up Blush brush , and start over . Those are nice and big and very soft .

 After fifty five years that's where I am at . Guess what ? Those Acrylics ain't so bad after all !

There are many techniques and how-to videos on youtube. Check those out to learn how it's done visually. Learn to do it on a cheap kit before trying it on your current build until you've gained some confidence and comfort in doing it. This way, you'll get an idea whether it's too much, too little or just right to your liking. 

I know several modeler friends who use watercolors diluted to washes for weathering.

Hello all.  A year later and I'm working on the Tamiya 1/48 F-15A - nice recessed stuff all over and I want to wash it.  So - I will seal with PFG.  Will use MIG washes.  Will wait - ? - 15 minutes to dry?  Then gently remove the wash with - ?  Laquer thinner?  Mineral spirits?  As always - thanks.  

EdGrune

Mix your media. 

If you paint in acrylics, seal with Future or a compatible clear GLOSS paint.  Make your wash with an organic solvent, mineral spirits, turpentin, Turpenoid, Humbrol, etc.  It should be ‘mild’,  not an aggressive material such as lacquer thinner.  Apply your wash and wick it off with the same thinner. 

If you paint in enamels seal with  compatible clear GLOSS paint such as Model Master,  Humbrol or your favorite.   Make your wash from an acrylic solvent (water, alcohol) and use  acrylic paints for the color.   Apply and wick as before

Use a GLOSS sealer as it allows the wash material to be manipulated better   Flats have pigment particles which trap the wash pigments resulting in a ‘cloudy‘ or stained appearance

CLear gloss also allows you to fix mistakes better.  Happy with your paint job - seal it and try the wash. Not happy with the wash - remove it and try again.  Happy with it - seal it and move to your nex step; a second wash, pastels, etc

 

 

 

Mig enamel washes are pretty hot,don't slop them on pretty heavy.

Use mineral spirits or lighter fluid NOT lacquer thinner. It will strip the paint off, sealed or not.

Thanks - in short, PFG, wash - mineral spirits.  Any other suggestions for a wash that may not be as dicey as the MIG wash?  Do you recommend using an enamel, diluted with mineral spirits as the wash?  If so - what ratio?  again - thanks to all for your help.

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

There are many techniques and how-to videos on youtube. Check those out to learn how it's done visually. Learn to do it on a cheap kit before trying it on your current build until you've gained some confidence and comfort in doing it. This way, you'll get an idea whether it's too much, too little or just right to your liking. 

 

I just started using an acrylic wash from Wilder called Aqualine . The wash can be reactivated with water after it has dried. Another nice thing is that they dry "dead flat". The cost is $5.60 per bottle. They are available at http://shop.lastcavalry.com/wilder/. I'm going to do a pin wash on a bomb.

The wash is really thick. It has the consistancy of ketchup. It is intended to be mixed with water. There is enough in each bottle to last through many models.

The bomb on the right is pre-wash, the bomb on the left is post-wash. I initially painted the bomb with a rattle can held about three feet from the bomb. I used a light mist so that the paint was almost dry when it hit the bomb whish resulted in a rough surface. First I used flat black and then olive drab. Next came the Wilder wash. I used black smoke, brown rust and some brown mud on the bottom. The Wilder wash is really easy to use and there is no need to seal the base paint.  If you don't like the results just remove the wash with water. I really like that it dries dead flat. Wilder also makes pastels and thick washes to simulate mud .