Will liquid cement fog clear plastic?

Only if there's direct contact. I usually find that applying Future to the clear part eliminates CA fogging, also.

I have  used tamiya extra thin liquid cement very lightly on clear plastic, with no ill effects . You could test it on some scrap first .

Testors makes a clear glue for canopies, and windows, and Pace 560 is another, slightly stronger.  Both dry clear.  Can also use Elmers white glue or 5 minute epoxy, but will have to clean any excess right then.

Have used both the Testors and the 560, and the 560 is my go-to now.

Yes.

Like Steve I've used it Tamiya Extra Thin without issue. I especially like if for the front portion of the canopy, makes a nice solid bond with the fuselage. Only takes a little bit. 

The Testors window cement is not very strong.  I would not glue a fuselage together with it.  Two other options not mentioned yet are epoxy, and the new laser hardening cements, that come with a lazer or blue LED.  The latter is my go-to for working around transparencies.

I second the Bondic ( a.k.a. laser glue ) It's tailor made for clear parts.

I find Testors Clear Parts Cement more than adequate in strength and clarity to cement clear parts. Aleenes tacky white glue is also excellent drying invisible. 

If there is no venting for the regular plastic and CA glue fumes to escape then most lightly fogging will occur. As mentioned Future protects against fogging.

Hi;

 Coat it in future and glue away .

Tanker - Builder

Hi;

 Coat it in future and glue away .

 

I have tried that, but got frosting anyway.  One of the guys that recommended it said that I have to just wash it off the inside of windows with alcohol- the frost comes off with the future.  However, for some uses, like the front windscreen on airliners and bombers that doesn't work, 'cause the fuselage is already closed up and you can't get to the back.

Don ;

   I Never put the Windscreen / Cockpit windows in/on till last then its a Clearcoat of Testors Modelmaster on the back ( Inside , then I glue it in place . ) If it isn't under stress White glue should be just fine . As said I use Aleens 

Tanker - Builder

Don ;

   I Never put the Windscreen / Cockpit windows in/on till last then its a Clearcoat of Testors Modelmaster on the back ( Inside , then I glue it in place . ) If it isn't under stress White glue should be just fine . As said I use Aleens 

 

I find the stress on white glue to be when sanding and filling masked cabin windows.  They must be inserted from the back, and hence before gluing fuselage halves together.  I mask them much later, and I have popped windows in while triming the tape around the windows, or when sanding out the fuselage near the windows.  I don't know how many times I have had windows pop in, and boy, they can be a monster of a job to retrieve.  And almost impossible to glue back in because of the flange on the back side.  I will not risk it any more on airliners or bombers with windows.  It is hard enough on cars with windshields or rear windows with inside flanges.