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Will liquid cement fog clear plastic?

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  • Member since
    August, 2012
Will liquid cement fog clear plastic?
Posted by JMorgan on Thursday, May 24, 2018 3:45 PM

I need to glue a chopper fuselage together with the canopy in place. I know superglue will fog the plastic. Will plastic cement do the same?

  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Thursday, May 24, 2018 3:52 PM

Only if there's direct contact. I usually find that applying Future to the clear part eliminates CA fogging, also.

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by steve5 on Thursday, May 24, 2018 5:20 PM

I have  used tamiya extra thin liquid cement very lightly on clear plastic, with no ill effects . You could test it on some scrap first .

 

  • Member since
    August, 2014
  • From: Willamette Valley, Oregon
Posted by goldhammer on Thursday, May 24, 2018 5:43 PM

Testors makes a clear glue for canopies, and windows, and Pace 560 is another, slightly stronger.  Both dry clear.  Can also use Elmers white glue or 5 minute epoxy, but will have to clean any excess right then.

 

Have used both the Testors and the 560, and the 560 is my go-to now.

  • Member since
    July, 2013
Posted by modelmaker66 on Thursday, May 24, 2018 9:45 PM

Yes.

  • Member since
    September, 2014
Posted by rooster513 on Friday, May 25, 2018 7:59 AM

Like Steve I've used it Tamiya Extra Thin without issue. I especially like if for the front portion of the canopy, makes a nice solid bond with the fuselage. Only takes a little bit. 

-Andy

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Friday, May 25, 2018 9:05 AM

The Testors window cement is not very strong.  I would not glue a fuselage together with it.  Two other options not mentioned yet are epoxy, and the new laser hardening cements, that come with a lazer or blue LED.  The latter is my go-to for working around transparencies.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    August, 2013
Posted by Jay Jay on Friday, May 25, 2018 1:11 PM

I second the Bondic ( a.k.a. laser glue ) It's tailor made for clear parts.

 

 

 

 

 

 I'm finally retired. Now time I got, money I don't.

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Friday, May 25, 2018 5:10 PM

I find Testors Clear Parts Cement more than adequate in strength and clarity to cement clear parts. Aleenes tacky white glue is also excellent drying invisible. 

If there is no venting for the regular plastic and CA glue fumes to escape then most lightly fogging will occur. As mentioned Future protects against fogging.

 GIFMaker.org_jy_Ayj_O

 

 

Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Sunday, May 27, 2018 2:55 PM

Hi;

 Coat it in future and glue away .

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Monday, May 28, 2018 9:56 AM

Tanker - Builder

Hi;

 Coat it in future and glue away .

 

I have tried that, but got frosting anyway.  One of the guys that recommended it said that I have to just wash it off the inside of windows with alcohol- the frost comes off with the future.  However, for some uses, like the front windscreen on airliners and bombers that doesn't work, 'cause the fuselage is already closed up and you can't get to the back.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

  • Member since
    June, 2014
  • From: New Braunfels , Texas
Posted by Tanker - Builder on Thursday, May 31, 2018 6:44 AM

Don ;

   I Never put the Windscreen / Cockpit windows in/on till last then its a Clearcoat of Testors Modelmaster on the back ( Inside , then I glue it in place . ) If it isn't under stress White glue should be just fine . As said I use Aleens 

  • Member since
    November, 2009
  • From: Twin Cities of Minnesota
Posted by Don Stauffer on Thursday, May 31, 2018 9:47 AM

Tanker - Builder

Don ;

   I Never put the Windscreen / Cockpit windows in/on till last then its a Clearcoat of Testors Modelmaster on the back ( Inside , then I glue it in place . ) If it isn't under stress White glue should be just fine . As said I use Aleens 

 

I find the stress on white glue to be when sanding and filling masked cabin windows.  They must be inserted from the back, and hence before gluing fuselage halves together.  I mask them much later, and I have popped windows in while triming the tape around the windows, or when sanding out the fuselage near the windows.  I don't know how many times I have had windows pop in, and boy, they can be a monster of a job to retrieve.  And almost impossible to glue back in because of the flange on the back side.  I will not risk it any more on airliners or bombers with windows.  It is hard enough on cars with windshields or rear windows with inside flanges.

 

Don Stauffer in Minnesota

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