Milliput for seams?

That will probably be the best way to do it. Milliput would be best if say there was a marked step between the two halves. Milliput, used and shaped with water, is very good for re-creating perfect curves, or difficult ones where sanding is hard or likely to damage details...

Thanks for the info gentlemen. I definitely have some food for thought as I do this bow section.
What I might do is press Milliput into the bow section to the point that it does not move anymore, and then use squadron putty on top of that.
The bow section is pretty small so I think this would be do-able.

Do you think this will work?

Thanks again,

DJ

The problem with Milliput is that it does not 'melt' the plastic as a normal plastic filler. Therefore, what you have when the Milliput has dried is still a weak joint. If there's any chances of the plastic flexing then do not use Milliput 'cause a new break will appear soon enough! If you can first fill in the inside with Milliput so that no flexing is possible anymore, then you have a better chance of using a second 'load' of Milliput to fill in the gap, although I'd recommend that you do not limit the Milliputed area to the gap.

Milliput is good AHHHH another U Boat addict welcome to the drug my good sir, getting back to milliput don't do what I first did when it came out(showing my age) put it on like you were mending holes in a rusty car, its miles better in thin layers and allow at least 24hrs between sanding or it comes out in great big lumps I've used it for years and I am very happy with it
Nick.

I use it quite a bit, I find the only drawback over the other filler I use (Humbrol) is the drying time. I would think it will fill the seam nicely &, as you say, provide a bit of structural support. It's quite solid, once set.
At a joint like you have, I would roughen the edges slightly to give the filler a 'key' to grip to, and leave it as long as you can to set, at least 24 hours.
Pete