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New to working with resin, need some pointers.

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  • Member since
    April, 2017
New to working with resin, need some pointers.
Posted by Dancing Imu on Sunday, July 29, 2018 7:02 PM

Hi there.  I'm working on a Special Hobby 1:48 V-173 Flying Pancake.  It has some resin parts in some very exposed places along the landing gear.

I've never worked with resin before, so I know very little; well, nothing, really - about using it.

I'm not sure which tool I should use to remove the parts from the rail (or is it still the sprue?).  I also don't know what kind of glue to use.  I don't want to experiment and find out that I'm dissolving the parts.

Any help or tips would be extremely appreciated!

Tags: aircraft , resin
  • Member since
    September, 2012
Posted by GMorrison on Sunday, July 29, 2018 7:54 PM

It's not all that different from styrene. The biggest difference is that little resin parts are brittle and break easily. Also it can't be assembled with solvents, like styrene can.

I guess the right term would be the "pouring block".

The best way to remove parts is with a saw, leaving some of the block on the part. Putting any stress on the part as a pressure slice with a razor blade or cutters would may snap it at it's weakest point.

Resin sands easily, so once the part is free, hold it firmly and rub it on sandpaper taped to a flat surface to remove the rest of the block. Sometimes this is quick, sometimes it requires removal of a lot of resin. 

Resin dust is bad to breathe. For an operation as described above, just be careful to sweep up the dust and dispose. But if you are using a belt sander or a Dremel, wear a dust mask.

It glues to itself with epoxy, but it glues to both itself and styrene with CA, so that's the best adhesive.

One of my favorite things about resin is that a good source can make a piece that equals the detail of an assembly of a dozen parts in styrene.

I hope that's helpful,



  • Member since
    April, 2017
Posted by Dancing Imu on Sunday, July 29, 2018 8:24 PM

Very helpful, many thanks, Bill.

  • Member since
    November, 2008
  • From: Central Florida
Posted by plasticjunkie on Tuesday, September 04, 2018 8:20 AM

Wash the parts in Dawn to remove the oils and any other junk then air dry them. Use a good primer like Tamiya or Alclad. I like to use Gorilla Super Glue Gell on the resin parts for a super strong bond.




Too many models to build, not enough time in a lifetime!!

  • Member since
    September, 2006
  • From: Bethlehem PA
Posted by the Baron on Wednesday, September 05, 2018 5:06 PM

The others have covered the big points-wash the parts to remove mold release (I use a couple drops of SuperClean and warm water), wear a dust mask when sanding, use epoxies or CA glue.

I would add that it's a good idea to pin some joins for added strength, especially where a join is a simple butt join-two pieces with flat surfaces, butted up against one another.  Such a join will not stand up to shear forces and will easily break.  I use various types of wire for pinning a join, from straight pins, to paper clips, to brass rod.

Hope that helps!

The bigger the government, the smaller the citizen.



  • Member since
    September, 2017
  • From: western North Carolina
Posted by kensar on Friday, October 12, 2018 12:29 PM

I use a jewellers saw to separate the pieces from the pouring blocks.

For very small parts, I use a side cutter, as is used for styrene parts.





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