Advice - removing surface detail for photo etch

I'm not coming up with great ideas for removing that particular surface detail, hopefully others will.

In the meantime, my comment is the first thing I try to do when adding PE is decide will the PE part actually look better? From your pictures, I'm not sure some careully applied paint might actually look better than the PE.

Just for your consideration.

I do not recommend power sanding for this small scale of detail.

I've built this kit twice and love it. I doubt that any PE parts will enhance the kit because the plasric detail is already terrific plus most of the parts will never be seen. I usually use a knife to remove surface detail for PE and then sand if necessary. If you've already completed and painted the interior then it's probably too late to be adding PE. The kit supplied dry transfers for the door sills and engine shroud are terrific but that's as far as I'd go. Please post a few pictures when you're done. It looks like you've done a great job so far.

jeffpez

I've built this kit twice and love it. I doubt that any PE parts will enhance the kit because the plasric detail is already terrific plus most of the parts will never be seen. I usually use a knife to remove surface detail for PE and then sand if necessary. If you've already completed and painted the interior then it's probably too late to be adding PE. The kit supplied dry transfers for the door sills and engine shroud are terrific but that's as far as I'd go. Please post a few pictures when you're done. It looks like you've done a great job so far.

 

Well, those photos are not mine.  I've not started that kit yet.  I used photos from the internet.  I'm beginning to realize that just because I have the PE, doesn't mean I have to use it.  Thanks for the reply.

Dave

Please don't let me discourage you're using the PE. What I'm suggesting is that you look at each peice and decide if it will ever be seen and if so will it enhance the model. I think you'll find some of it will be terrific and some won't. If you already spent the money to buy it you also now have a valuable learning tool. 

jeffpez

Please don't let me discourage you're using the PE. What I'm suggesting is that you look at each peice and decide if it will ever be seen and if so will it enhance the model. I think you'll find some of it will be terrific and some won't. If you already spent the money to buy it you also now have a valuable learning tool. 

 

Thanks.  I try to do something new on every model, just for the learning experience.  Lots of learning presently on an Italeri Mefistofele. Used machined/PE  toggle switches on the dash. Gauge lenses are Bondic UV cured plastic

The wood floorboards and firewall are an idea copied from Harry Pristovnik's build of this model. But I used a thin basswood backing for the pieces; tiny brass nails for the screws.

Very carefully....

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

Very carefully....

 

Yes, I was waiting for that one.

AWESOME ! ! 

Dave ;

 useing P.E. Has to be a judgement call on your part . If you are good at dry - brushing and handling a Molotow pen then I wouldn't even suggest using it .

 There are many times on tamiya and Hasegawa models I do NOT use P.E. , using painting techniques instead .There's no modeling law that says you have to use P.E.

 P.E. is great for grilles and meshes , but a lot of the other detail does just fine with paint .

There are a lot of pe parts out there but the first thing you need to evaluate is if the pe part will add more detail than the kit part. Sometimes a kit part is replaced with a pe one where no detail has been enhanced So why go thru the hassle? Other times the pe shoots up the score 100% and gives a WOW factor to an otherwise plain and sparse area.

As for removing surface detail, I like to go slow and avoid power tools if possible. It’s very easy to remove more and ruin parts this way.