Favorite Gap Filler-Uppers?

I usually use CA glue for most applications, but it is a pain to sand.
I don't use accelerator because it makes the CA too hard, I just apply it and wait until it starts to harden and then sand it. But even then it is harder than I would like. For harder to sand areas I use Squadron white putty and wipe the excess away with a Q-tip soaked in fingernail polish remover as the tip on Swanny's site shows. http://www.swannysmodels.com/Seams.html
I have heard people say they like bondo glazing putty used for cars as well as other automotive products used by repair shops. I wish someone would come up with a "wonder filler" that goes on like glass, dries quickly, and sands like polystyrene.

Mike

I prefer Tamiya's Basic putty. Works well, and fills most gaps on the first application. Sometimes, if the gap is especially wide (greater than 1mm), it may take 2-3 coats to conceal the gap. There's two downsides to the stuff. One downside of the stuff is the colour. It's grey, which pretty much requires a primer coat, unless the item is going to be painted grey. The second is how long it takes to dry properly. Sometimes I have to wait a DAY for it to properly dry. But that's only on really thick coats of the stuff. Usually 1-4 hours does the trick.

I've begin with two different fillers on this project so far.

1. Testor's White Putty.

Thoughts: It's crap. It's grainy and doesn't smooth out with acetone. It sands fairly well when dry but if it spread better when wet it wouldn't require nearly as much sanding! :)

2. Squadron Green Putty.

Thoughts: Better than the Testors stuff no question - but still tends to go on rough. Responds somewhat to acetone and spreads reasonably well.

Conclusion: I think I'll stick with the Squadron stuff for this kit anyway. I don't imagine there any easy answer to all the recessed panel lines on the Tamiya F-117A kit. Since the real thing doesn't sport any panel lines (they're all covered and smoothed out with RAM paint/tape/putty on the aircraft) I get to fill all the lines on this kit too. The top isn't super bad, but the bottom sections look like they're going to be a nightmare. I suppose I could leave the bottom sections as they are...but then if I wish to enter the kit in future competitions, I may not do as well with a "half finished" kit.

*sigh*

Wish I could just make them all dissappear magicly!

Bri~

Have you tried making a paste from Talcum Powder and Future?????

I tried this, and it worked really well.

Easy to sand, yes it dries whitish, but you cant have it all.

Mostly I use Tamiya basic putty.
To avoid the grainy texture of the stuff, after the final sand I go over it with some 1200 grade paper, and buff it up to a silky smooth finish.

After the buffing, it will not show up under light paints, except whites.

I use squadron green putty. I used to model warhammer a lot, and they use what they call "green stuff". I believe it's a similar product. Dries, can be sculpted while drying, and sands just fine.
Also, I haven't used it much, but testors filling putty (comes in a gray tube, same size as their tube glue) can come in handy as well.

Hi Zok,

The testors stuff in the grey tube that looks like their glue tubes is their white putty - and frankly I found it sucked in a BIG way on this kit. The squadron stuff isn't nearly as bad though I do wish It wouldn't shrink as much as it does. Ah well. I haven't tried anything using 'Future" just yet as I don't own any future. Perhaps the next time 'round...

Bri~

I had a situation over the weekend that was a bit unique. The inboard ends of the ailerons on the Corsair I'm building are sunken in somewhat, and there was a pretty good gap between the two halves down in that sunken area. Since I'm building the model with the flaps down that gap would be pretty noticeable. The first one I assembled I used Squadron putty on the gap, but it was terribly hard to get in there and sand it. It was pretty rough and dinged up and I wanted something to smooth it out.

I put the aileron in a vise to hold it vertically and put a drop of Future down in the sunken area. Let it dry a few hours and applied it again. After the second application everything was smooth as glass. The second aileron I skipped the putty and went straight for the Future. It took three applications, but once again it was smooth as glass.

Have you tried disolving bits of plastic sprue in slow drying liquid cement, like Testors? You can make it the same color as your kit and any consistency you like. I seem to remember this tip from the dark ages when I was in grade school and the only putty around was the white junk.

I have a book that suggests using styrene stock for filling since it comes in all different types of sizes. The way it is supposed to work, is that you put the oversized strip into the gap, and glue it in with some thin liquid cement (not CA). Trim the piece, and sand a little. Since it's styrene, it sands easily, and the thin cement bonds it real good to the model, all without shrinkage. I have not tried it yet, but plan to soon (possibly this weekend) as I am horrible with any type of putty, or CA technique.

I probably use the most unlikely product for "puttying" my models: It's called Doc Faraday's (or is it Farwell's--I don't have the jar with me) Seal and Heal. You know that black goop you put on a tree when you cut off a branch? The intended use for this Seal and Heal is for that purpose, but it's water-based, a much thinner consistency and a tan color. It's probably not for everybody: Seal and Heal does shrink as it dries (which I've actually learned to use to my advantage), it takes a while to dry (about half an hour) and it might not be available everywhere (I bought it at the plant nursery I used to work at in southern California). On the other hand, Seal and Heal sands really smooth, doesn't attack the plastic, doesn't pit or get rough like the commercial modeling putties can do and it accepts enamels beautifully. (I haven't tried acrylics on it as I use enamels almost exclusively.) And one jar will probably last a lifetime. (I've even once used it as a tree sealer!)

I've used the styrene/glue goop before - it tends to be messy, takes two to three days to dry enough to work on and you end up having a lot of pinholes to fill once you get it filed and sanded to shape. Nowadays if I have a large area to fill, I fill it with Sig Microballons and add thin CA. Even if you hit it with accelarator, it is still softer and easier to sand than CA alone.

Believe it or not, I've used Elmer's Fill 'N Finish Interior Light Wood Filler. Stuff has microballoons, sand amazingly smooth. Dries fast. Get it from Lowe's, etc.

Other than that, I've used the white Testor's putty that comes in tubes, didn't spread right for me, and has too much odor.