Applying instant glue/superglue/cyano

I use a toothpick with medium ca glue . it give's you a bit of time to position your piece . some guy's here use elmer's white glue , don't like it  myself , too messy . but something a bit slower drying and a small tool .

I use a  piece of thin wire, i normally use 5amp fuse wire. I also tend not to take my glue straight from the bottle, but instead put a small amount on a piece of wax paper. If i have a long piece that need glue along an edge, i can simply touch the piece to the blob of glue.

Darren Scannell of the Resin Shipyard demonstated this technique several years ago at an IPMS Nationals

http://www.resinshipyard.com/pages/tip_pages/glue_tips.html

He uses Teflon radio-control control sheathing tube and stretches it like you would a piece of sprue (Didja  know that when you stretch sprue the shape remains?  Square remains square, but finer.  A tube remains a tube, but finer.)

Put the unstretched end of the tube over the spout of liquid CA.  The hair thick tube   delivers a pin-point sized drop with good control.I use this to run a bead of glue along the gutter rail of PE railing.

Teflon is not affected by the glue.   But if the tip clogs just nip back to a good point, often 1/8 inch or less.

I bought a 24" inch length of RC tubing for less than $5.00 at the local Hobby Town and was able to make a couple dozen tips.

steve5

I use a toothpick with medium ca glue . it give's you a bit of time to position your piece . some guy's here use elmer's white glue , don't like it  myself , too messy . but something a bit slower drying and a small tool .

 

Ditto on the gel CA, but I also use white glue at times, again applied with a toothpick.  It depends a lot on the piece and its location.  I apply the white glue with a toothpick also, so it isn't that messy.  The light weight of PE means you don't need a lot of strength.

With either glue I sometimes put the spot of glue in the spot it will go, other times on the PE piece.  Really depends strongly on where I am putting the piece, and what the piece looks like.

I made a few applicators using different sizes of sewing needles. Clip off about 2/3 of the eye and drill the appropiate size hole in the end of a section of 1/4" dowel that is comfortable to hold.  Shove the sharp end of the needle in the hole, can put some CA in the hole first if you want.

Just scrape and pick any hardened CA off the needle with a blade.

Picked up this tip from here on the forum.

I use a scrap piece of wire myself. I use this CA glue because it's far more stronger than the other usual brands.

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

I use a scrap piece of wire myself. I use this CA glue because it's far more stronger than the other usual brands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Thanks for all the tips, guys!

I found a MIG product called slow dry cyano at my local shop this weekend, I'll give it a try! Thank you all :-)

modelmaker66

 

 

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

I use a scrap piece of wire myself. I use this CA glue because it's far more stronger than the other usual brands.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Great stuff but so expensive! I just buy the little tubes of super glue regular and gel in the multi pack. I dispense on a plate, use some wire to apply. It costs $3.00 at hobby Lobby for 3 tubes.

 

 

I agree they're expensive but I find it laughable to your comment. It's like calling the kettle black. It's no different than buying the best brand in kits, paint, and tools. Just saying...

Hi;

 Just as an aside,I use Insta-Cure from Bob Smith Industries .Local Hobby Shop label .I preferthe Insta -Cure + type .

 I apply it with a fruit skewer ( small ) you can get a pack of small ones for about a buck at Dollar General Stores . They are small ( about a third of the diameter of a pencil ( Wood ) and you can cut and re-sharpen the pointed end with sandpaper till it's to short to use !

 I use the butt end to apply Zip-Kicker .

EdGrune

Darren Scannell of the Resin Shipyard demonstated this technique several years ago at an IPMS Nationals

http://www.resinshipyard.com/pages/tip_pages/glue_tips.html

He uses Teflon radio-control control sheathing tube and stretches it like you would a piece of sprue (Didja  know that when you stretch sprue the shape remains?  Square remains square, but finer.  A tube remains a tube, but finer.)

Put the unstretched end of the tube over the spout of liquid CA.  The hair thick tube   delivers a pin-point sized drop with good control.I use this to run a bead of glue along the gutter rail of PE railing.

Teflon is not affected by the glue.   But if the tip clogs just nip back to a good point, often 1/8 inch or less.

I bought a 24" inch length of RC tubing for less than $5.00 at the local Hobby Town and was able to make a couple dozen tips.

 

This is awesome and something I haven't discovered yet.I already have the tubing so I'm going to get after this soon. Thanks for sharing.

steve5

I use a toothpick with medium ca glue . it give's you a bit of time to position your piece . some guy's here use elmer's white glue , don't like it  myself , too messy . but something a bit slower drying and a small tool .

 

I use the gel ca also, for spot gluing on things like railings.  Then I go back to white glue thinned 1:1 with water for the whole thing. The white glue takes too long to dry- a few spots of ca gel make it easier.  I also use a toothpick for the gel, and a homemade applicator for the white glue, a large needle with eye ground in half to make a fork, and jammed in a piece of dowel.

Hobbie, hope you don’t mind that I piggyback off your topic. 

On the subject of CA. I often use CA to join parts after painting, especially when adding final details like pitot tubes, landing gear etc. So my question to the folks here: would you remove the paint from the surfaces to be glued? Or just apply CA to the painted surfaces?

I would think removing the paint makes for a better bond. However sometimes scraping off the paint results in the fit becoming not as good, as some plastic will inevitably get shaved. 

Or does it not make much of a difference, and I’m just worrying over nothing?

I always remove the paint.  As an alternate to scraping, for small parts I drill a little dimple or two through the paint layer.  I don't trust the strength of the paint bond.

Don Stauffer

I always remove the paint.  As an alternate to scraping, for small parts I drill a little dimple or two through the paint layer.  I don't trust the strength of the paint bond.

 

Thanks for the tip, Don!

Will try the drill technique, kind of just nick the painted surface with the drill bit. 

I dislike working CA and avoid it as much as I can. Dries to fast, makes a mess, and my gluing skills aren't the best anyway.

For CA, it is usually Gator's Grip white glue (like Elmers, but lots better), or CA Gel (same as Don)

Edit: just realized this doens't really address your question, sorry.

Greg

I dislike working CA and avoid it as much as I can. Dries to fast, makes a mess, and my gluing skills aren't the best anyway.

For CA, it is usually Gator's Grip white glue (like Elmers, but lots better), or CA Gel (same as Don)

Edit: just realized this doens't really address your question, sorry.

 

 

No problem even if it doesn’t address the question, Greg. Always good to hear how others tackle the issue. 

I share your opinion of CA, but I do think it offers a better bond compared with white glue. Will give Gator’s grip a try though, if I come across it. 

Thanks for being understanding, Edwin.

Funny we are talking about CA. I just had a horrible away from home repair experience with CA an hour ago. I hate the stuff, I'm mad, I have fingernails glued to skin, my nose burns like a 15 yr old with severe acne, and if I was home I'd go downstairs and throw every container of the gad-dunged junk away. (except the Bob Smith CA Gel, which I love)

It's dangerous and I can't understand why it has not been criminalized in California yet.

So there.

Hey, back to your topic, back home I have some neato CA applicators I bought at the Nats in Cincinnati a few years ago. There are a PE set, they clamp into an exacto blade handle, work great and after use you just hold them over a lighter flame, the hardened CA burns right off and you're good to go again. I'm looking for them online, if I find them I'll pass along to you, Edwin.

goldhammer

I made a few applicators using different sizes of sewing needles. Clip off about 2/3 of the eye and drill the appropiate size hole in the end of a section of 1/4" dowel that is comfortable to hold.  Shove the sharp end of the needle in the hole, can put some CA in the hole first if you want.

Just scrape and pick any hardened CA off the needle with a blade.

Picked up this tip from here on the forum.

 

but I use a lit candle to clean up the needle then wipe clean on a paper towel. I also use a tooth pick to apply Alene’s which is way stronger than Elmers and also use Gorilla Superglue Gel depending on the application.