A little too much pledge coat

Water....

BlackSheepTwoOneFour

Water....

 

 

Dampen a q-tip ( cotton bud)  with water and keep rubbing the affected area. How much water and rubbing depends on the thickness of the PFC.  it's a trial and error method.

Jay Jay

Dampen a q-tip ( cotton bud)  with water and keep rubbing the affected area. How much water and rubbing depends on the thickness of the PFC.  it's a trial and error method.

 

Tks.  Ill give it a try and report back.  Ill first have to wait for the dec to dry.  have a nice weekend.

Windex, or a mixture of ammonia and water will dissolve that junk.

Good grief, no one has asked- what is the paint under the Pledge?

If it's acrylic, windex will attack that too.

Water won't do any good.

Cadet Chuck

that junk

+1

And I agree with GMorrison, it depends on what is under the floor polish.

Hope you get this sorted out. Drips are not fun. Been there, done that.

Maybe lightly sanding the area with 1000grit or higher. Then apply more clear to the area. But future is meant for the floor not a model. I've tried using it before as a clear coat I just didn't like it, I've still use it to dip clear parts but probably won't on the next build.

so i have acrylic under the pledge.  i tried rubbing alcohol to smooth out a previous botch and i got an even bigger one - it stripped everyting.....  oh well, live an learn.

not sure what to do with these 2 small drips though......

PS. O, and i see the pictures are not showing again.  UGH......  

If it were me, not saying you should, I‘d try this: I have repaired many a botched paint job by sanding the affected area and then respray it. I have not tried it on Future but, I don’t see why it wouldn't work. If you try it, sand with a very fine grit and only sand until the glob is flattened. You’d need to be careful not to sand through to the paint. Then, wipe it clean, and respray that area trying to blend it. My hope would be that respraying would blend things and remove the dull finish from sanding. I can’t say for certain it would not make things worse. Sometimes it’s hard to blend clear gloss coats once a previous  coat has dried. Like I said, I have not tried it on Future. If you apply a final flat it could help to  blend any remaining variences or demarcation of gloss.

Wish I would have seen this sooner. Those drips are easily repaired by letting the Future cure for at least a week. Sand the affected area till the ridge is gone but don’t flip when the sanded area turns white. After the sanding is feathered and completed, re spray or hand brush the Future. I don’t spray it but hand brush it all the time. It self levels and leaves no brush marks. Let it cure for a good week and spray clear flat. I use clear flat lacquer over the  cured Future without a problem.

plasticjunkie

Wish I would have seen this sooner. Those drips are easily repaired by letting the Future cure for at least a week. Sand the affected area till the ridge is gone but don’t flip when the sanded area turns white. After the sanding is feathered and completed, re spray or hand brush the Future. I don’t spray it but hand brush it all the time. It self levels and leaves no brush marks. Let it cure for a good week and spray clear flat. I use clear flat lacquer over the  cured Future without a problem.

 

 

tks again. Took your suggestion and it’s better I think. used 1500 sandpaper, cleaned it up with water, dried and then brushed more on. All done for now. 

Mrchntmarine

 

 

plasticjunkie

Wish I would have seen this sooner. Those drips are easily repaired by letting the Future cure for at least a week. Sand the affected area till the ridge is gone but don’t flip when the sanded area turns white. After the sanding is feathered and completed, re spray or hand brush the Future. I don’t spray it but hand brush it all the time. It self levels and leaves no brush marks. Let it cure for a good week and spray clear flat. I use clear flat lacquer over the  cured Future without a problem.

 

 

 

 

 

tks again. Took your suggestion and it’s better I think. used 1500 sandpaper, cleaned it up with water, dried and then brushed more on. All done for now. 

  

 

Hey you are welcome and it looks good from here. 

No one should use Windex for this if the underpaint is acrylic.  It may take to the whole thing down to the bare styrene. FYI If any other people have "Future" problems.

Good advice from plasticjunkie, your repair looks very good.

I'm glad it all worked out for you.

pledge is a thing of the past.Try airbrushing “ Gauzy Shine Enchancer”.Its a good acrylic  gloss .Drying fast within min’s.Google it.

Silver

pledge is a thing of the past.Try airbrushing “ Gauzy Shine Enchancer”.Its a good acrylic  gloss .Drying fast within min’s.Google it.

 

Or, put another way, the 100 ml or so of Pledge I've used from my current bottle of it cost me $ 0.80. A bottle of the nice stuff costs $ 10.00.

Still a big future fan.  Good stuff and dirt cheap.  Also had issues recently with alclad gloss - first time use.  Seems future is inert when it comes to paint interaction.  

The only problem I've had with interaction is with decal solvents.

Yes, a better quality spray acrylic finish is preferred, Silver is right. Future will definitely run into corners and drip without some care taken to wick it with absorbent paper.

But it is inexpensive.

“Bingo” Decal solutions are bad for Future.Anyway, good luck.

Silver

“Bingo” Decal solutions are bad for Future.Anyway, good luck.

 

I have been using Future for well over 20 years and the ONLY time I got a reaction from decal setting solutions was from the Future not being cured.  I wait at least 3 days and NEVER had a single issue even using Solvaset which is VERY strong.

I know Future works for me so no sense fixing something that is not broken and is VERY cost efficient (cheap compared to other products).

I not only use Future for glossing up finishes for decal prep but it has other uses too:

It hides scratches on clear parts.

Can be mixed with compatible acrylic paints as a thinner/glossing agent specially in Craft paints.

Glues together clear parts.

Great for making wet mud and other wet effects for dios.

Makes realistic IP instrument glass faces.

Can be used to attach stubburn decals that curl up.

Decal applied over wet Future eliminates silvering.

Great for hiding thick decal film edges.  Takes several applications but it works at getting rid of that "step"edge.

You and me plasticjunkie- future sales team 

Ditto plasticjunkie.

Tojo72

Just a thought for next time,if it's only a few decals,there is no need to spray the entire model,just do where you will be decaling,less chance for error,and the gloss area will blend when you apply your flat coat.

 

Use spotty gloss at your own risk.  I have a couple of models sitting around that demonstrate this doesn't always work.  For whatever reason, the under gloss coat still shows a clear difference between the areas that were applied, and those that weren't, even with a nice thick dull coat.  You might verify on an extra bit of sprue first before jumping in.

Mark Lookabaugh

 

 

Tojo72

Just a thought for next time,if it's only a few decals,there is no need to spray the entire model,just do where you will be decaling,less chance for error,and the gloss area will blend when you apply your flat coat.

 

 

 

 

Use spotty gloss at your own risk.  I have a couple of models sitting around that demonstrate this doesn't always work.  For whatever reason, the under gloss coat still shows a clear difference between the areas that were applied, and those that weren't, even with a nice thick dull coat.  You might verify on an extra bit of sprue first before jumping in.

 

I agree with Mark. Sometimes the finish is different between the two so I spray the entire model just in case.

Well I’m glad I posted !  Always learning. Have to say, the little I’ve been doing this I’ve had good luck with PFC - baring this issue and one other. I’m sure my inexperience was the cause. For the cost, a good product with many uses.