Proper method to attach canopy

I jhave to try the bondic. I have two dispensers. But I have been using testors tube glue for 58 years. The directions say sparingly apply and that’s how I apply it. 

Thanks to all who have replied.  I'm going to try the Formula 560.  I'll let everyone know how it goes when I get that far.

Bill

gregbale

 

 

Don Stauffer

I use the UV laser hardened glue now for all transparencies.  Of course, like with any cement or glue, I scrape off any paint on mating surfaces.  The stuff bonds in seconds, does not affect the transparencies, and is stronger than those window cements.

You do not need to order it from tv commercials- many hardware and building supply stores carry it now.

 

 

 

A small asterisk to Don's very useful suggestion:

the UV light used to cure those resins doesn't penetrate through styrene...even clear styrene...so make sure there's a bit of 'edge' of the adhesive exposed, for that light to reach.

(Not sure about the acetate-type plastics used in vac canopies...but I suspect it may be the same deal.)

 

Very true!  You must shine the laser on the edge of the joint.

I was using white glue but read somewhere a while back you can use Tamiya extra thin without canopies fogging so I tried it and it worked, so I use that now unless I am temporarily tacking on the canopy for building then I use white glue until I'm ready for permanent attachment later.

Your best bet is pick up a cheapy model for a paint mule and you can practice things like this on it before you do it on an actual build. Tamiya has some inexpensive Japanese aircraft models that make for great paint mules. Just throw the fuselage together and put the wings on and you have a practice plane with spare parts left over and we can never have enough spare parts laying around. Good Luck

Don Stauffer

I use the UV laser hardened glue now for all transparencies.  Of course, like with any cement or glue, I scrape off any paint on mating surfaces.  The stuff bonds in seconds, does not affect the transparencies, and is stronger than those window cements.

You do not need to order it from tv commercials- many hardware and building supply stores carry it now.

A small asterisk to Don's very useful suggestion:

the UV light used to cure those resins doesn't penetrate through styrene...even clear styrene...so make sure there's a bit of 'edge' of the adhesive exposed, for that light to reach.

(Not sure about the acetate-type plastics used in vac canopies...but I suspect it may be the same deal.)

I use the UV laser hardened glue now for all transparencies.  Of course, like with any cement or glue, I scrape off any paint on mating surfaces.  The stuff bonds in seconds, does not affect the transparencies, and is stronger than those window cements.

You do not need to order it from tv commercials- many hardware and building supply stores carry it now.

Hi Bill;

    This is something I wondered about it seems for years .When I was little I mean . My Mom came up with the answer over 60 years ago. " Honey, she says " " If that stuff in the tube is fogging the glass,why don't you use some of this"? " This" turned out to be a early version of what I use now .Aleens " Sticky" Craft Glue . I think it was a K-Mart brand !

 Canopies don't like any type of plastic glue .I have used also a " Jewel Glue" from Hobby Lobby " It's used to fasten Clear Rhinestone type gems to material and solids .This dries clear too . Won't hurt the plastic! Testors " Window Maker - Good Choice as is Elmers. 

goldhammer

Watch using CA (superglue) the fumes can fog clear styrene.

I use Pace 560 and have had good luck with it.

Another vote for Formula 560: great stuff...like thickened white glue, but stronger, and stays flexible instead of getting brittle.

Also, re the CA...if you can get at it (i.e. if the canopy isn't shut tight), a little denatured alcohol on a swab or brush will usually wipe away that frosting if it's just 'surface accumulation.' If the fumes were sufficient to have actually etched the surface...relatively rare, in the quantities used with clear parts on models...then you're 'S(adly) Out of Luck.'

If you are using wood glue,Elmers,or canopy glue,then you don't need to scrape off paint,those type of glues don't interact with plastic like Tenax,Tamiya.and those types.

I use a UK brand of wood glue. I did have a bottle of the Microscale glue for canopy's but i used so little of it, i only used about a 1/4 of the bottle before it went hard.

Good point goldhammer - I ruined a few canopies in my early days of CA use.

Watch using CA (superglue) the fumes can fog clear styrene.

I use Pacer Formula 560 and have had good luck with it.

I use testors clear parts cement. A lot like Elmer's.  I tack the masked canopy during assembly when it is difficult to mask over the cockpit.  Then pop it off if I want to pose it open. Do a bit of clean up and attach.  Other times I have masked and sprayed the canopy separately and it's one of the last things I attach.  The masked windscreen goes on before painting and stays on.

I'm not an expert by any stretch, but maybe I can help start the conversation. Yes, you should have little to no paint on the contact surfaces as possible. There are a number of adhesives that are useful, from PVA (think Elmer's and the like) thru conventional model cements and even CA (Superglue and other brand names) depending on the strength of the bond you desire and the model you're building. What is appropriate and when is a judgement made from experience.

There are books on basic skills and techniques in the Kalmbach store to help you sort things out, and there are many online tutorials. Hopefully other, more experienced modellers will come in with their suggestions and advice.