Perfect Plastic Putty anyone?

I've had very good experiences with PPP. It's nice, because you can get it in the crack, then use a damp q-tip to "knock down" the access. then after it's dried, you can give it a quick sand. And, I've never had it shink on me, and no issues with several types of paint and primers. Hope this helps.

X2.  Is great for small seams and imperfections.  Can even hit it with a wet Q-tip after it had dried and still work it down and off.

Had some issues with rescribing, but that is probably more me than the product.

I almost always use PPP for small area filler, but for wider gaps I like the red Bondo filler. Really good consistency, never had it shrink, sands easily enough. I always use masking tape on either side of the gap line, tape very close to the gap edges.

With a small flexible spatula, (like for cooking in really small pans,) I can do a good job of leveling the Bondo so sanding is faster and easier. For PPP a moistened Q-tip will get rid of excess putty in the gap, and around it, very neat job. PPP sands the easiest of all, I think.

To be sure of dryness I let it set overnight, but for small areas like pin holes or scratches, just a few hours is plenty OK. After the tube has been sitting for more than a day, I use 1 or 2 drops of water, literally, applied at the mouth of the tube to ensure the proper consistency.

When finished I add water again to the tube opening, which gives it a much more effective seal against drying. This present tube is 4 years old and the product is still as new.

I think you'll like it.

Patrick

Thanks for the great information everyone. I'm waiting for the PPP to be delivered via the mail.

patrick206

I almost always use PPP for small area filler, but for wider gaps I like the red Bondo filler. Really good consistency, never had it shrink, sands easily enough. I always use masking tape on either side of the gap line, tape very close to the gap edges.

With a small flexible spatula, (like for cooking in really small pans,) I can do a good job of leveling the Bondo so sanding is faster and easier. For PPP a moistened Q-tip will get rid of excess putty in the gap, and around it, very neat job. PPP sands the easiest of all, I think.

To be sure of dryness I let it set overnight, but for small areas like pin holes or scratches, just a few hours is plenty OK. After the tube has been sitting for more than a day, I use 1 or 2 drops of water, literally, applied at the mouth of the tube to ensure the proper consistency.

When finished I add water again to the tube opening, which gives it a much more effective seal against drying. This present tube is 4 years old and the product is still as new.

I think you'll like it.

Patrick

 

exactly what i do except for the water in the tube. Learned something cool here going to use this idea tonight!

My PPP showed up yesterday and I gave it a try today. It's nice because it can be removed with water. No sanding required.

Sands easy as well, fairly quick with 320 or 400.  The hard Tamiya type Q-tips, damp, will leave it even with the surrounding surfaces.

When working with acrylic‘s.Make sure you thin the paint just slightly because it will effect the PPP.Its not a strong putty.Good for small areas.Also,good for canopy seams against the fuselage.

I had the same thing happen to me.Use the (PPP) .Lit dry.Shoot a gloss sealer.Then w/a very thin fine brush painted/a light metalic line.Next seal it .Take a clear decal film sheet and draw thin metallic lines using a enamel or acrylic thin paint marker aided w/a ruler.Seal the sheet w/clear gloss.after drying then cut out the lines and decal in the line .