Polystyrene to Polyvinyl Chloride / model plastic to PVC - what glue works?

Tanker-Builder

Re; Your question.

      I will tell you this. If you use the C/A it will work great. Just make sure that Anything you do use it for is not subject to Torque stress. No twisting or pressure from any side. 

   Note: Watch out for that thin C/A , Why? Capillary action will glue you to the part or vice versa. You won't even feel it happening !

 

I keep a bottle of CA debonder on hand. It sure helps when I glue my fingers together, or to each other.  Also, CA is the only glue I know of that offers a nice debonder.

Re; Your question.

      I will tell you this. If you use the C/A it will work great. Just make sure that Anything you do use it for is not subject to Torque stress. No twisting or pressure from any side. 

   Note: Watch out for that thin C/A , Why? Capillary action will glue you to the part or vice versa. You won't even feel it happening !

If you do a lot more checking about the solvent/glues for PVC pipe, you will find that there is a solvent recommended for non-pressure, or pressure joints,  is a Type G clear liquid.

Now when you do a search for this Type G solvent, your going to find that it is sold at numerous hardware outlets worlwide, it containd that magic elixer called MEK, as well as being diluted a tad with Acetone.

So you can use this magic elixer on PVC and Polystyrene as well, marvelous product this MEK.

Far cheaper than that expensive stuff that's sold at rip off hobby stores, you get about 20 times the amount for the same price, or even cheaper.

Read ALL about it below, ------ sometimes Google can be your best friend.

https://www.vinidex.com.au/app/uploads/pdf/VIN340A-Quick-Installation-Guide_PVC-Solvent-Cement.pdf

When modelling, forget about using primer, the glue will clean the PVC for you.

I agree about CA.  A couple of years ago I was making a Jupitor C rocket kit.  The main body was a common problem- the two halves were not quite round when placed together.  I found a piece of PVC pipe that was exactly the diameter the body was supposed to be.  I glued the kit nose and tail (engine) parts to the pipe with gel CA, and it has held fine.

Just tried it, and the winner is .  .  .CA !!!!   (and the crowd roared!)

Thanks much.

Of course, the one time I need the thin CA, I don't have it. It holds but the capillery action effect would help in getting it to flow like I need. The gel just don't flow.

Should be OK then.

No substantial stress is expected, I'm trying to build the lower barbettes for my 1/350 Arizona, the parts below deck. If anything, they will just hang from the deck.

CA glue should work.  Will the piece be subjected to stress?  If so, maybe epoxy glue.