Not so happy with the color - Revell Doctor Lykes

Tamiya's hull red is the IJN color and is quite brown. 

Ive recently been using Vallejo Model Air Fire  Red 71.084 

"Hey Mr. Talley Man, count me bananas."

When I build merchant ships, I like the old Rustoleum primer for the hull.

And, I picked up a can of Ace Hardwares knockoff.

It looks great as a topside deck color.

Now the big ??

Your Lykes Line ship really won't show any hull red unless she's light on her way back down south from Tampa to San Juan.

Black? Tamiya NATO Black is a nice dark gray.

We old timers use our stashes of Polly S Engine Black.

"Tanker-Builder" has approved this message.

The Doctor Lykes,brings back some memories of one of my favorite books

Trivia: anybody remember the Tom Clancy novel where the Doctor Lykes played a big role, and how 

Tojo72

The Doctor Lykes,brings back some memories of one of my favorite books

Trivia: anybody remember the Tom Clancy novel where the Doctor Lykes played a big role, and how 

 

Red Storm Rising or maybe Red Storm....  Anyhow, a ship was disguised as the Doctor Lykes SeaBee vessel.  This Doctor Lykes was the 4th or so to carry that name

EdGrune

Tamiya's hull red is the IJN color and is quite brown. 

Ive recently been using Vallejo Model Air Fire  Red 71.084 

 

tks for the color tip - ill ck it out.

Mrchntmarine

 

 

Tojo72

The Doctor Lykes,brings back some memories of one of my favorite books

Trivia: anybody remember the Tom Clancy novel where the Doctor Lykes played a big role, and how 

 

 

 

 

Red Storm Rising or maybe Red Storm....  Anyhow, a ship was disguised as the Doctor Lykes SeaBee vessel.  This Doctor Lykes was the 4th or so to carry that name

 

Yes, the Soviets disguised a ship as the Doctor Lykes carrying an airborne division to invade Iceland

The new issue of FSM has an article on the Arizona....he used 3 parts XF9, 1 part XF2 .  looks more like a US red to me, but don't know how much is the print/color process.

Might be worth looking at.  Pretty easy to mask off the bottom and repaint.

goldhammer

The new issue of FSM has an article on the Arizona....he used 3 parts XF9, 1 part XF2 .  looks more like a US red to me, but don't know how much is the print/color process.

 

Tks goldhammer.....  Got mine today. Still debating. Gonna hang on to this for reference. I might have more masking and spraying than I anticipated seeing as this older kit has a lot of the details molded in.  A lot of tiny tight spaces with deck color being different from attached rails....  Not sure how picky I'm gonna be.  

And... USN drydocks are not Pacific Pipe and Steel, Union or whatever yards the Lykes Line used.

Hull red is a thing that really depends on your preference.

On a merchant, the real thing would be a mixture of marine growth scented with whatever remained of her last shop visit.

My own prefence is to err on the brown side, go more red on smaller models.

Bill

Hi;

 "Hey, Mr Talleyman, Talley me bananas, Day Oh, Day Oh, Daylight Come and Me want to go home" I use Rusteoleum or Testors rust for every thing ship bottom related. There is a difference of course, so sometimes the two colors get used on the same bottom or decks!

 The last Time;

    When I ported in Lisbon for the last time I saw the then version of the Dr.Lykes from "the Lykes Lines": She was then a real weird light grey.Upper works White and cranes and hardware Buff. She looked beat to H#%% too!

   I figured she would hit the scrappers soon.

GMorrison

Hull red is a thing that really depends on your preference.

My own prefence is to err on the brown side

Bill

Tanker-Builder

 The last Time;

    When I ported in Lisbon for the last time I saw the then version of the Dr.Lykes from "the Lykes Lines": She was then a real weird light grey.Upper works White and cranes and hardware Buff. She looked beat to H#%% too!

   I figured she would hit the scrappers soon.

 

are you talking of the the C3 version?  Or the SeaBee?  The last SeaBee version I think was sold to the Military at one point and I've seen pics of her in grey. And oh, some of the pics ive seen towards the end - and past - the end of their lives - whew - I've wondered how they even floated or ran.....

Hi;

     That would be the C-3-4 version. She had what looked like a modernized stack and front Wheelhouse bulkhead. Oh, and talk about "Oilcanning" the hull didn't appear to have a flat plate on it!. She looked like a demo Derby survivor flying a Liberian Flag.

     I wouldn't wanted to be too close to her. I am sure she smelled to the dickens. Her decks looked like a sewer and some of the effluent coming out her freeing ports and running down her sides looked positively gross! Looked like dried slime!

      There were very few ports My own ship could actually enter. But on this voyage I had to take one of the  older ships to the yard and then fly back to my own command in a different country. For a short while, I was on a ship of only 657 feet in length. It was like being on a very poor handling, clumsy sports sedan!

Tanker-Builder

Hi;

     That would be the C-3-4 version. She had what looked like a modernized stack and front Wheelhouse bulkhead. Oh, and talk about "Oilcanning" the hull didn't appear to have a flat plate on it!. She looked like a demo Derby survivor flying a Liberian Flag.

     I wouldn't wanted to be too close to her. I am sure she smelled to the dickens. Her decks looked like a sewer and some of the effluent coming out her freeing ports and running down her sides looked positively gross! Looked like dried slime!

      There were very few ports My own ship could actually enter. But on this voyage I had to take one of the  older ships to the yard and then fly back to my own command in a different country. For a short while, I was on a ship of only 657 feet in length. It was like being on a very poor handling, clumsy sports sedan!

 

check this out:

https://www.history.navy.mil/research/histories/ship-histories/danfs/h/hamul.html

The 1945 C3 vessel was scrapped in 1973

So i have another "procedural" question - not exactly color related, but with this model.  The decks and wheelhouse areas have molded in details and ive not had the pleasure of taping a deck before.  So - i plan on a reddish deck, the deck sides are white and various colos for the lines and machinery.  Question - would you tape the small items, spray the deck then paint the small details freehand or then tape the deck to cover then paint the small items.  The side rails are white so tape them 1st or leave uncovered, ok to get some red on them then paint white?  I wouldnt want the red to show through the white on the sides.  Dont know what to do 1st.......

Hi There!

       I assume your model was molded in white? Why, then did you prime it in Dark Grey? When I build these I always glue the decks down, then Cut off all the rails and blend everything with putty. As for my reasoning. Because of the way the structures assemble. To get straight bulkheads without a seam horizontally.That gets the rails out of the way.

  Revell had this bad habit of molding this way. I often wondered why they didn't set it up where each level was molded with an upper deck and the deckhouse in a single swipe below. I forget who, but one company did this  The deckhouse bulkhead walls rose from the deck to the heighth of the bottom of the next deck. Put it on and so on.

     Ports were represented by divots and rings molded in the sides. Ladders were still what we used to call Aztec temple style. Sometimes cutting those off resulted in other holes to fill. Ah well, It made us better modelers!

 As far as better painters, well some yes. You will certainly have time to gain the skill. I have NEVER tried to AirBrush and tape off all that stuff. That's what brushes are for! If you try to tape off all that detail, she's gonna fight you. Some of those details Have sink holes in them and most do not have correctly shaped sides.

     I don't recommend that you detail with an A/B. anywhere on this model. I replace the rails with Clear sheet plastic Engraved with the rail pattern that has had white paint bled into the engraved lines. You can find clear plastic that isn't too shiny and do this. I got this idea from a model I saw in a travel Agency window. Remember those? If you choose not to remove the rails at least thin them out. make sure you use Acrylic for this, because using oil base enamel takes to long a learning curve for some folks.

Tks TB - actually i was just thinking of you.....  To myself - time to go and do this - airbrush the decks and just hand paint the details I was thinking...  I dunno, grey primer, bc what i have on hand grey, white, black.  What would you have recommended so i know the reasoning?  Im afraid to cut the side rails - this plastic is very brittle.  We'll see....  

Tks much!

I paint the deck with the A/B, then mask around the base of the details and deck houses.

I spray the deck houses, and usually hand paint the winches etc.

Bill

Aha!

    Brittle plastic requires a gentle hand and a very sharp X-Acto Number 11 blade drawn backwards along the edge where the inside of the rail joins the deck. The whole deal is not to get in a hurry! DO NOT use sprue cutters anywhere you would do this to remove a molded part from any of the ship's structure. I repeat the above instructions.

where i am now....

yep - very brittle....  in dry fitting king posts, 1 or 2 of the pegs broke off in the holes.   also, the decks did not fit well and it seemed as if all the rail posts between the decks were different lengths. kinda lost my patience on 2 and 3 level and cut some short....  also missing the boom supports that go on the 2 booms on the forward house.

Mrchntmarine

where i am now.... 

Looks nice.  Can't wait to see it all finished.

Pat