Frisket Techniques?

Thanks GR!

Spencer: You can airbrush Future along the edges to prevent what Jonathan described as run through. I have not had this problem because I am using low psi and I spray away from the mask. Try this technique on a scrap model and I think you will like it.

Mike

Thanks you guys, I'm gonna do some experimenting today. I'll let you know the outcome.
Jonathan, I don't really understand the clearcoat method. Could you clarify for me a little more? I'd really appreciate it. Thanks, -Spencer

One thing that I've found to be indespenable, is to lay down your friskit, but then before you do ANY painting, lay down a clear coat around the edge. I had bad luck with colors seeping under even the tackiest friskit. One shot of clearcoat, and that problem has gone the way of the do-do. Youll get a line as clean as a whistle! Its a must...especially on hot-rods and stuff.

Good luck!
-jonathan

Laser printers and most modern copiers work on basically the same principle. The image to be copied is "Digitized", or scanned into millions of pixels. For each dark pixel on the original a corresponding pixel on the copy is given an electrical charge. Toner is then applied to the page, and where the page has been electrostatically charged, the toner sticks to it. It's just dust though. The fuser heats up the toner and melts it into the page.

I really think the idea will work if the Frisket can stand the heat. An ink jet would work fine if the ink will adhere to the Frisket. I haven't tried that either.

A third method might be to just print the images, spray them on the back with some artist's adhesive (the peelable kind!) and then stick them to the Frisket. Cut out the patterns, and peel the paper off the Frisket.

It's all the same basic idea as goldenretriver's method. Just a little easier to cut it out is all.

Wow! You guys never cease to amaze me! Maybe I could scan them and run the Frisket through the printer! What do you think? I'm not sure what you meant by fuser.

QUOTE: Originally posted by goldenretriver This is great stuff for hard edge demarcation lines such as found on British WW II aircraft. Enlarge your instruction sheet so that it is the same size as the model. Place the instruction sheet under clear plastic or glass and then place the frisket over the clear surface. Using a sharp blade, cut the patterns out and place them on the model's surface.

Something I've often thought about trying but never have is to actually Xerox the patterns directly onto the Frisket. It should work fine since the Frisket has enough of a matte finish to hold the toner. Just not sure what the fuser would do to it though. I've used matte film in copiers before, but it's way too sticky and stiff for masking. One of these days when nobody is in the office, it's gonna happen!

Thanks Mike, I might try this as I'm having trouble finding objects that are the right size to fit my needs.

This is great stuff for hard edge demarcation lines such as found on British WW II aircraft. Enlarge your instruction sheet so that it is the same size as the model. Place the instruction sheet under clear plastic or glass and then place the frisket over the clear surface. Using a sharp blade, cut the patterns out and place them on the model's surface. You are now ready to airbrush using 10 psi, airbrushing at 90 degrees to the surface. Saran Wrap Press and Seal is also excellent especially for curved surfaces and can be applied in the same way as frisket paper. It has little tac so it is great on delicate paint.

Mike McShea

That's about the same way I was seeing it. But there are always tricks of the trade people use that novices like me don't know about. So any info would help.Thanks, -Spencer

Great queston! I'm curious if there's any special tips too.
I've got a pile of it but never used it on models, only on bristol or canvas. Never used it because I haven't masked anything yet in my return to modeling, only basecoats so far. I always just treated Frisket as really good masking tape, that you could be more exact with.