C.A. - Superglue - A Discovery

I stopped using the hobby brands like Bob Smith a few years ago because after all these years they still have that crappy tip design that clogs easily.  Switched over to Gorilla Super Glue with the light blue cap and never looked back.  Their tip design never clogs.

Aha, The dreaded Ejector Pin Mark!!

         You know, when I first started using C.A. on little fill jobs, that's just what I used it for. It took me a while to use it for other fill jobs. Ya know, old habits die hard! The Bob Smith Thick I find works best for this,But, and I have to add this.For those wee holes that pop up sometimes the Gel works great too!

Tanker-Builder

Now, I will use C.A. for many fill tasks. But, I will not use the accelerator on it. I have found it's great for smoothing seams on card and thin plastic aircraft parts.

That's exactly how I use it when filling seams.  Tried using accelerator once to try to speed up the process even more, and I found that it made it much harder and more brittle.  So, I just went back to dabbing a little into the remnants of seams and letting it cure on its own.  Then I use an ultra-fine-point sharpie and scribble the black ink all over the cured CA spots to be my leveling indicator.  Then its just a matter of wet sanding with 1500 and 1800 MicroMesh sticks until all the black is gone.  That leaves a perfectly filled and contoured seam that won't absorb paint and won't crack as I continue to work on the model.  Usually works on the first try, so it eliminates the dreaded putty, sand, repeat dance.  The times that it doesn't, I can just dab a little more CA into the missed spots, right over the primer.  As long as you dab the CA into the primered gaps and let it settle on its own, it will mix with the primer and cure like it normally would.  Don't have to worry about removing primer to get a good bond like you do with solvent-based putties.  The stuff is magical for that, and I use the same method for filling ejector pin marks.

Eaglecash867;

      Oh, for sure.You remember way back when those beautiful Bunch of Grape Dining Table decorations came about? Just about the time those toys came out that were two resin balls connected by a string that clacked together? Well,  that Resin is what did me in. WE ( the factory) had a girl make a batch of a thousand of the grapes and she made them too hot! They cooked off in the building and caused the sprinklers to drown out the fire. After that day even the so called oderless resins will bother me.

      Now, I will use C.A. for many fill tasks. But, I will not use the accelerator on it. I have found it's great for smoothing seams on card and thin plastic aircraft parts. The beauty? Using C.A allows me to WET sand paper. All I have to do is isolate it to that surface. One thing is that when I have to do that. I have to use craft spray fixative. It tends to protect the card or paper for the time needed to do the work. Then Step away and let it all dry. Here's a fact. I discovered  something, that if I can, I will make a mold with a Metallic based filler. Once cured, With just a little coating of something non-sticky( read, Cooking Non-Stick here) Rubbed in well, and set aside for a day or two will allow you to make things, Thin Things, with C.A., Of course you  HAVE to do it in very thin layers.

       See? I don't think I will stop experimenting with anything model related. It's just to darned much fun! Even the Mess ups! The Cooking Spray thing works sometimes, and most times it doesn't, Seems to depend on chance, BUT, I never stop trying.

Tanker-Builder

Eaglecash867:

         I Would and Could use Epoxy except for one thing. I would have to use the stuff outside as there to many allergies to deal with . Mine and the Two ladies. I can't even be around curing Fibreglas Resin anymore!( Never used to Bother me) Not so Now, for sure!

Eaglecash867:

         I Would and Could use Epoxy except for one thing. I would have to use the stuff outside as there to many allergies to deal with . Mine and the Two ladies. I can't even be around curing Fibreglas Resin anymore!( Never used to Bother me) Not so Now, for sure!

Epoxy is available everywhere, and does a better job with zero risk of fogging...just sayin.

Hi Baron;

       No, I haven't purchased stock. I was making it known that in a tight it can be used. I go to hobby shops and such, and every time I turn around another Brand is not being carried. The C.A. is always there though! Testors liquid has disappeared from around here and the closest I can by Tamiya is 45 miles in either direction. One way! The Local H.L.has Testors in the tube, but no more liquid.They used to carry Tamiya liquid. No more of that!  Now it's the Mr. Hobby Brand Liquid. My last plane needed it's canopy so the office wouldn't get dusty, C.A.Gel to the rescue, Again!

Tanker-Builder

 Hi Baron-If You Re-read:

 I did mention that many of the C.A. glues are hot. That's why I mentioned the Gel. Three little dots at the Canopy frames (On the edge) WILL do the job without fogging! I have done this for quite some time now. I have Not tried Bondic, But I am thinking about it too! Really, any glue is a nominee for Clear parts. It's just how you use them. Note: There are of course different brands and many are not well known for quality.That's why I said use a name brand!

           Before the dots, I did mention the amount you use. The more glue the more chance of fogging. It stands to reason- If you use to much of any glue on any part you are going to get damage. I used gel on my Monogram trainer way back when Gel first was available. It didn't fog and the Four little dots did their job with no damage. I am not saying Use it for sure, but you MAY if you are very careful with it. If I had a couple of hundred hours building and detailing an aircraft I certainly wouldn't want to ruin it, It took practice! 

That's as may be, but I doubt you've convinced anyone who doesn't use CA glue to glue clear parts, to change his mind.

Why the push to get people to use CA glue? Have you recently purchased stock in Bob Smith Industries or something?

 Hi Baron-If You Re-read:

 I did mention that many of the C.A. glues are hot. That's why I mentioned the Gel. Three little dots at the Canopy frames (On the edge) WILL do the job without fogging! I have done this for quite some time now. I have Not tried Bondic, But I am thinking about it too! Really, any glue is a nominee for Clear parts. It's just how you use them. Note: There are of course different brands and many are not well known for quality.That's why I said use a name brand!

           Before the dots, I did mention the amount you use. The more glue the more chance of fogging. It stands to reason- If you use to much of any glue on any part you are going to get damage. I used gel on my Monogram trainer way back when Gel first was available. It didn't fog and the Four little dots did their job with no damage. I am not saying Use it for sure, but you MAY if you are very careful with it. If I had a couple of hundred hours building and detailing an aircraft I certainly wouldn't want to ruin it, It took practice!

No downplaying here.  CA has its uses, and attaching clear parts with it isn't one of them for me.  Like Baron says, its about chemistry, and for many of us it isn't worth the risk.  A tiny bit of epoxy, and the whole job is done in one step, with zero risk of fogging anything no matter what.

Tanker-Builder

...many of you have downplayed C.A. as a cement for clear parts. Why? Well, here's the answer and it will surprise you...

You appear to have omitted discussing the reason people choose not to use CA glue for gluing clear parts-that gasses emitted as the glue cures will etch the plastic, creating the fogging effect. Especially if used in a case in which the gasses can't dissipate rapidly enough, such as the closed cockpit or interior of an airplane model.

I'm not sure that is related to the brand or quality, it's just a matter of chemistry.

I finally learned my lessons with CA type glue,the less the better,when too much goes on,it never sets up,like TB says,just small dots.

To be honest -- though it's not my adhesive of first choice for clear parts -- I've never had much difficulty using CA to attach canopy parts.

With small amounts of the glue, and reasonably good air circulation, I've rarely had any problems. The few times I've gotten a little 'fogging,' a swipe with a micro-brush and denatured alcohol has wiped it cleanly away.

Just my