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Scratch-Building a Ship! (Waterline-All Scales)

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  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Scratch-Building a Ship! (Waterline-All Scales)
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Tuesday, October 18, 2022 7:46 AM

Is it Hard!

         Nah! First you have to know what kind of ship you want to build. Now I will say that I have NOT chosen to do small scale war ships this way. I am sure I could, but I have chosen to concentrate on Civilian vessels from Tugs all the way to Liners.

         Next is acquisition of some parts. Are you going to do a Tanker say, or a Dry cargo ship. Dry Cargo can be anything from taconite, in a class of ship known as a Laker. Or are You wanting to build the Ocean-Going variety that ply the oceans mainly. These are referred to as Salties in the Great Lakes and Northeasterns Inland waterways.

         You must have Plastic. I use.030 and .040 for the Deck and Base plates and ProfilePlate. When you do the next step you will lay out the plates according to their place on the ship. An outer profile drawn to a centerline will work for the deck and base plates. The baseplate will reflect the shape of the hull where it enters the water. The deck plate wil also have slots in it to allow the upperworks(Deckhouse etc.) to come through. The Bottom plate is a butt joint along the centerline with the profile plate held vertical. You can plate the hull with .010 or .020. This way you will have scale thickness on your bulwarks. This works in the larger scales of 1/96, 1/87, and 1/100as well as 1/200 also the scales of 1/400 and down.

The easiest way is to build the hull like you would build a Paper or Card ship model. First you create a profile that goes from the Boot stripe to the Funnel tops(If it has them) Then you create a Bottom plate(The part in contact and visible at the water. Then a Deck-Plate (Deck). Take the profile plate and create slots in the deck plate( to allow the profile plate to slide up into and mesh nicely with the deck).

        Then making sure that those are true and square, glue them together. Find the centerline on the base Plate. Then glue the profile plate to it, again making sure it is true and square, Letting this assembly dry for at least a day. I find with most plastics this works best. Plate with the thinner stuff and if your ship has a very flared bow or stern, do those in diagonal strips so you can shape them right. This works better in plastic for sure.       Happy Building!         NOTE: Please don't ask about older Galleon style sailing ships or Ships of the Line. They are too difficult for the casual builder and very tricky to boot!

        

  • Member since
    March 2022
  • From: Twin cities, MN
Posted by missileman2000 on Tuesday, October 18, 2022 8:57 AM

Tanker-Builder

...

         You must have Plastic. I use.030 and .040 for the Deck and Base plates and ProfilePlate.

 

       

I would disagree with this.  I have built a number of scratchbuilt ships without using any plastic.    I can get plywood as thin as 1:64.  There are plank on frame and plank on bulkhead, and solid hull construction that use wood better than plastic.  POF and POB, as well as solid hull can be made pf plastic, but I believe wood is better and cheaper than plastic for those methods.  And I have build plate type hulls from wood.

 

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Tuesday, October 18, 2022 4:27 PM

Okay!

    Let's not pick on the TankerBuilder! I work in Plastic so I promote Plastic. Of Course you can do the same with wood. I was just tryin to splain how ta do it in Plastic. B'sides wood takes too longfer folks whut is in a hurry!

 Besides, c'mon Missleman2000 have you ever seen a wooden H.O. scale ship after being trotted around for display for say ten shows with a waterfront scene? Doesn't hold up to well!

    I have some great models of old Ferries and Fishing Boats built the same way in wood. I just don't promote it too much, knowad I mean? I will relent though, and say you CAN do the same in wood to the same degree of detail.The raw material of course is your choice, now where did I put that RESIN IronClad? LOL.LOL. Because you Can do it this way. I have done four different vessels out of Skived White Ash.1/64" thick, this way. Great results too!

  • Member since
    March 2022
  • From: Twin cities, MN
Posted by missileman2000 on Thursday, October 20, 2022 10:29 AM

I'm old enough to remember when IPMS contests did not allow anything but plastic models. I guess I am just sensitive to those days.  I left IPMS, rejoining only after they allowed any kind of build material.

 

  • Member since
    October 2019
  • From: New Braunfels, Texas
Posted by Tanker-Builder on Thursday, October 20, 2022 2:35 PM

Yeah!

 What was with that? Well, The name was International PLASTIC Modelers Society. Thing is, there were those who wanted to display Paper as well. I have even seen Ships of Glass(Not Many, Mind You) but see, anything can be used to construct a model! There are certain model shows each year in Great britian, ships galore and it seems any material is Welcome!

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