Newby Whine

missileman2000

I use auto body putty, now called glazing putty.  It comes in big, expensive tubes, but that big tube is almost a lifetime supply.  Only big drawback is that it dries quickly.  Be sure to put cap back on immediately after squeezing some out.  Work fast.  You can thin it a bit with lacquer thinner.

 

 

I was waiting for someone eles to say that lol !

I use auto body putty, now called glazing putty.  It comes in big, expensive tubes, but that big tube is almost a lifetime supply.  Only big drawback is that it dries quickly.  Be sure to put cap back on immediately after squeezing some out.  Work fast.  You can thin it a bit with lacquer thinner.

To me a little thinner is better than gloppy. I actually was going to post whatever you use less is more even if you have to re apply. Better that than sanding away a globs of putty with risk of the center still being soft. Been there done that back around 1962.

Hey C.B.!

      I have used them all from Spackling Compound (1954) all the way to Resin putties (2022.)I have settled on Tamiya white putty. Why? Weell, it is light in color and is easy to sand the first 24 hours after hardening. It's a little harder later, but unlike Testors which is too grainy it sands to a perfectly smooth finish which can actually be polished before priming. Assuring a smooth finish.

 Also, although thinner than some it almost makes you follow directions about applying a thin layer at a time. And, It works a little longer while setting.

Thanks for the very through reply. Appreciate your time--CB

gregbale

CA ('super glue') types also work well for seams, but must be sanded fairly quickly; they harden as they cure, becoming progressively more difficult to sand smoothly as time goes on.

I usually let mine cure overnight before sanding and don't have issues with it being too hard.  After it cures, I scribble on the cured super glue with a black sharpie, and then sand with a 1500 Micromesh stick usually until all of the black is gone.  The black sharpie tells me when I have a flush surface so I don't end up over-sanding.  The cool thing is that I rarely have to go back and repeat the process.  If you do have to repeat the process, it will lay down and cure right over the top of any primer you have put on to check your filling job.  I have seen a lot of people doing things like sprinkling baking soda on the wet CA to make it cure, but the time I tried that, it hardened the CA to a jagged mess that shredded sandpaper like broken glass.  Letting it cure on its own keeps it pretty easily workable for me.

gregbale

That shows a touching -- if somewhat optimistic -- view of plastic model design.

Haven't had a good laugh here in ages. That was a doozy, Greg.

Old&Slow

But if you build it right  and things fit tight shouldn't need filler, right?

That shows a touching -- if somewhat optimistic -- view of plastic model design. Even the finest kits rarely reach micrometer accuracy across the board. At least a little putty is nearly always called for somewhere on a model. Older kits and certain manufacturers (rhymes with "schindberg") may require more impressive (or discouraging) quantities.

My personal preference is for solvent-based putties -- like the old Squadron White putty, or the lacquer-based automotive types -- simply because they seem to 'grab' better and shrink less, and sand out without Herculean effort.

I've tried several of the plastic/acrylic type fillers. They seem great for small seams, where you can just smooth them over with a damp cloth or brush...but I've never gotten them to work properly for larger gaps, repair areas or reshaping contours. CA ('super glue') types also work well for seams, but must be sanded fairly quickly; they harden as they cure, becoming progressively more difficult to sand smoothly as time goes on.

Fillers with a hardness similar to the surrounding plastic are perhaps easiest to sand to perfection. Gluing in pieces of scrap or sprues -- or making a filler from styrene scrap dissolved in something like liquid cement -- remains a favorite 'go to' for many modelers...though the drying time tends to be measured in days rather than hours, depending on the size. Gives a good solid fill, though. 

Cheers

Tamiya extra thin mostly. Super glue occasionally, but not on seams.--CB

Mostly a/c aboard the Ticonderoga (CVA 14) in the late 60s, A 4s, F 8s etc. Currently doing 1:72 scale but small parts can be frustrating.--CB

For most seam filling applications where I want a completely invisible seam, I use Gorilla Super Glue with the light blue cap.  But, there's a possibility you may need to adjust your technique for gluing things together as well.  What type of cement are you using, and how are you currently using it?

What sort of kits are you building, model types and brands etc ?