Resin parts

wpwar11;

         That is exactly the procedure I use now. I have been able to get back to resin after dealing with an allergy to the Dust. I now only sand it under running water. No, I don't waste water. I have a five gallon bucket I fill with water and then put a small submersible pump in it. I then Proceed to sand under the stream that gets caught in another, Like a plaster or cement mixing craft tray and pump it using a retired Acquarium Pump, right back into the original bucket.

          Took me a while to figure it out and finding an old unused bilge pump I had bought for my House-boat way back when, The idea hit me. Now I can get that Resin Plymouth Valiant Done.  I Will be glad when the "Signet" can join It's shelf of Chrysler friends. Did you know that a Baby Swan is called a Signet?

So you cannot use solvent cements on resin. CA is usually the best choice, followed by epoxy or other bond type cement. Because of this, your joint strength is totally dependent on the surfaces attached.

Make sure that your primer, if used, has excellent adhesion to whatever its applied to. I find if more common than not to pre paint detail parts, including resin, prior to attachment, because that works with CA.

Bill

I've used acrylic paint and primer on resin parts without any issues. And, as mentioned, keep the dust down with water. I usually wear a mask when sanding or sawing reson as a secondary precaution--the tendency to do a quick dry sanding or filing for fit sometimes gets the better of me. 

Other than the clean up from the mold and dust control using water I treat them like plastic in all aspects, except CA glue is needed. I have not noticed any differene with them over plastic with regard to painting. The big thing is to work with them wet when cutting or sanding. 

BK

I have mostly used lacquers and enamels on my resin parts without any issues, and I use decanted Tamiya surface primer underneath the paint.  For washing beforehand, I use my standard method of a soak in Simple Green, followed by a rinse under hot water, and then a quick dip in Isopropyl Alcohol to speed up the drying process after the bath.  The little bits of resin "fuzz" you might encounter around some of the more intricate details in the casting, I have found that brushing a coat of MEK directly onto the resin and letting it just evaporate settles that down.

Roger that.  Thanks Tojo

That's the procedure that I have used with my resin parts and figures.

I have used an X-acto knife to carefully clean them up to trim off bigger pieces before sanding them.

I have used those primers you mentioned,usually after the parts are attached to the model and once it's primed whatever paint you use doesn't make a difference.