Attaching a vacuformed canopy

Epoxy has always been my go-to for attaching canopies.  I think you're on the right track with that idea.  Its much stronger than white glue and more transparent, and it will never fog your canopy.

I have used watch crystal cement for years.  Strong and completely colorless.  It comes in a small tube with a very fine metal applicator needle.  Putting that very small wire back into the nozzle will test your eyesight and steadiness.  I get them from MicroMark.

https://www.micromark.com/Watch-Crystal-Cement-Two-1-3-oz-Tubes

I use plain old Testers clear parts cement. Although basicly white glue it drys much harder. The trick is to glue the part and then leave it totaly alone for at least 12 hours. My only failures have always been my own fault for being over eager and handling too soon.

Thanks for the replies.  I'm thinking that epoxy might help fill in some gaps if my fit isn't too perfect, which it probably isn't.  If I mess it up, I've got several copies of the canopy to experiment with.  I don't think this one will go to the Smithsonian anyway.

Don

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CA/SuperGlue would also be OK, but you have to treat your canopy with future equivalent first - then you won't have to worry about fogging. Good luck with your build!

Paweł

I sometimes make small tabs from stryene sheet or strip stock and glue them where the inside of the canopy will be.  Before I glue on the canopy I paint the inside of the tab with the color of the inside of canopy.  Carefully scratch off the paint on the inside of the canopy base.

Hi Don:

      Whilst I don't build many Planes, when I do, I always try to Vac-u-form the Canopies. That way if it is open, it is scale thickness. Closed? Well, it's easier to see all the hard work inside. Fastening it down. I have, ever since I got fascinated with paper(Card) models years back, I use Aleens, Copper Bottle White glue("Aleens Tacky Glue") It allows for a good attachment and it also will let you fill irregularities in thin layers. Then Paint goes over it just fine. I check where the canopy makes good contact and that is the spots where the Toothpick line of glue goes. Then leave it alone for at least a day. It will meet your requirements.

Thanks, guys.  Good to know.

Don

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Arabic	Hebrew	Polish
Bulgarian	Hindi	Portuguese
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Chinese Simplified	Hungarian	Russian
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Dutch	Klingon	Swedish
English	Korean	Thai
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Don Wheeler

Thanks for the replies.  I'm thinking that epoxy might help fill in some gaps if my fit isn't too perfect, which it probably isn't.  If I mess it up, I've got several copies of the canopy to experiment with.  I don't think this one will go to the Smithsonian anyway.

Don

If you decide to go the epoxy route, you can give it some time after you mix it before you apply it.  With the epoxy I have, depending on the job, I give it about 20 minutes after mixing.  That way its nice and sticky and won't have a tendancy to slowly flow with gravity out of where you want it.  Your mileage may vary, of course, because every epoxy brand behaves differently as far as how much workable time you have.

missileman2000

I sometimes make small tabs from stryene sheet or strip stock and glue them where the inside of the canopy will be.  Before I glue on the canopy I paint the inside of the tab with the color of the inside of canopy.  Carefully scratch off the paint on the inside of the canopy base.

This, give the canopy an edge to stick to.

Then crystal clear/ watch crystal cement   I used this, but i had a duff batch & onlyone canopy per tube was a bit annoying!

Gorilla glue is a good alternative, & Epoxy will work, with good 'grab' but will go brown if unpainted