ZONA - ZON35-550 35-550 Fine Razor Saw, 42 TPI.010-Inch Kerf, Blade Length 6-1/2-Inch,

Hey!

    Promise not to laugh?  Remember I said i was allergry Sensitive to Resin? Found a way around some of it. Photo Etched saws! And Water and a large Pyrex Baking Dish(Casserole size)! Now I am building some long wanted model cars that are resin.

 These P.E. saws are very thin as expected. And using them underwater has, if anything, wether plastic or resin, made them eaiser to use and so there you go! And of course being very thin saws, some no thicker that the (I )on your keyboard there is virtually no Binding!

Razor saws generate a lot of heat while cutting any kind of plastic, and  tiny amounts plastic actually melt!  I keep a small dish of water on the bench while sawing.  Eliminates the sticking and allows you to saw faster.  Same as oil when cutting metal.

Hello!

For small to medium pour blocks I recommend a knife like this:

Many companies including OLFA sell them as "plastic cutters" - they cut a V-groove in plastic, and if you use them on resin you get long shavings or curls instead of dust.

That's what I use - have a nice day!

Paweł

My last step is sanding to the finish dimension rather than cutting to it in the beginning.

Bill

EdGrune

 

Those CMK saws are good for lighter duty work but clog rapidly when used on heavier resin plugs...

I use them on plugs from things like cockpit details for 1/48 scale aircraft, 1/35 scale figures, and larger anime figures in 1/8 and 1/6 scale, where the casting blocks can be quite thick.  I haven't had any problems with those cutting jobs.  Of course, everyone's mileage may vary.

thanks

the Baron

Some of these saw blades are actually made in a photo-etching process, and are very thin.

I will also use a Nr 11 blade to score along the cutting seam, to remove parts from the casting blocks, too.  It depends.  I've used a sewing needle to score along the seam to remove it.

Those CMK saws are good for lighter duty work but clog rapidly when used on heavier resin plugs. 

Don't use the cutting edge on your #11 blade. It seems to work faster by turning the blade over use the backside of the point to drag material out of the separation line.  

Refrain from using a cut off wheel in a dremel.  It throws dust everywhere and allows you to screw up faster than doing it by hand

I use a jewelers saw with a fine spiral blade on it.  The blade has an extremely small cross-section, so you're not limited to just making straight cuts.  You can follow the countour of the piece you're removing the base from.  It also keeps the dust level lower than anything else I have used.

yeah I have read that.  I wear a mask while I saw.    thanks

The dust is hazardous and you don't want to breathe it in. Most of us use the saw blade in the X-Acto knife handle to minimize the dust created.

thank you

I use a fine-toothed razor saw to remove resin parts from their casting blocks, but not one of my X-Acto saws. The kerf on those saws, even on the fine ones, is too wide for my taste, for this kind of job.

I use this saw from CMK, though there are other makers who make the same kind of blade and similar handles:

Some of these saw blades are actually made in a photo-etching process, and are very thin.

I will also use a Nr 11 blade to score along the cutting seam, to remove parts from the casting blocks, too.  It depends.  I've used a sewing needle to score along the seam to remove it.

Hope that helps!