WWII Aircraft Painting Technique?

Hi, Shoop - Without an airbrush you're left with either tape masking or brushing. Tamiya tape is my most often used, blue painters tape works well, it can be cut into very narrow strips if needed. Masking fluid is another way, but not always the best results.

Some guys use paper cut to fit, then dampened in order to adhere. Just be sure to blot the surface to be painted until dry. I've done it, it can be made to work, but the edges can be prone to lift with pressure of propellant.

There are masking agents available that are reuseable, very thick and can be rolled into "worms," leaving no residue behind. A search for masking agents should lead to a manufacturer, I think AK might be one, Mig for another.

I'm an airbrusher, but if I need really fine lines I use Tamiya tape, or the blue tape from Scotch. Pretty much foolproof.

Hope you find something that works.

Patrick

Rule of thumb is paint the lighter colors,mask and then the darker colors.

I have also used Frisket, availble in art supply stores. It can be cut into whatever curve you want. Burnish the frisket with a tooth pick to seal it to the surface. You can use blue tape to cover areas away from the edge of the frisket. Stuff cotton  into areas such as the cockpit or wheel wells.

Tojo72

Rule of thumb is paint the lighter colors,mask and then the darker colors. 

Ditto. This usually means painting undersides (or all over) first, then masking (tape, Silly Putty, Blu-Tack, or other magical substance of choice) and doing the topsides and/or camouflage pattern last.

Also ditto to what Rob said, though I tend to use cheap notebook paper or paper towel sections to cover between masking edges, and toilet tissue to stuff into intakes, gear wells and the like. (Just make sure surrounding paints are dry, or you'll end up with tiny fibers stuck to your finish.)

I'm using Tamiya Masking Sticker Sheets now for all of my masking.  It can be cut to any shape and seems to be infinitely "re-stickable", while at the same time not having such an aggressive hold on your paint work that it damages it.  It also leaves no residue or difference in sheen to the contact area like other masking tapes I have used.

Thanks guys, I'll put your tips to good use on my next plane build. I need to finish one of the two vehicles ( 1/12 scale 57 Chevy and a 1/25 Corvette C7-R )I have on my bench now. I'm probably going build my Tamiya 1/48 Raiden Jack next.

Many camo patterns are also done free hand,especially simple upper-lower

Tojo72

Many camo patterns are also done free hand,especially simple upper-lower

 

As in brushed?

Shoop

 

 

Tojo72

Many camo patterns are also done free hand,especially simple upper-lower

 

 

 

 

As in brushed?

 

Air brushed

Shoop

As in brushed?

What Tojo said. 

I did the JAWS camo scheme on an A-10A using no masking.  It came out looking pretty good.  

Also free-handed an F-16CJ with the standard grey camo, but that was pretty easy because the pattern is pretty simple.