Seams...

Well, seems like seams are a way of life for the modeler. First, I use Tenax 7 for assembly, which can minimize the seams needing to be filled. For filling, I use Zap-A-Gap CA+, a gap filling super glue, and file/sand it down. If there is an easier way, haven't found it.

QUOTE: Originally posted by rjkplasticmod Well, seems like seams are a way of life for the modeler. First, I use Tenax 7 for assembly, which can minimize the seams needing to be filled. For filling, I use Zap-A-Gap CA+, a gap filling super glue, and file/sand it down. If there is an easier way, haven't found it.

I do the same as Rick although sometimes I will use putty with the fingernail polish remover technique that Swanny recommends on his site.
http://www.swannysmodels.com/Seams.html

I find this better for wing roots as it is harder to sand the Zap-A-Gap in those tight areas.

Mike

I use basically the same procedure as Mike. Zap-A-Gap when I can, Squadron putty when I can't. I've also used dilluted white glue for sort of wide, shallow seams. Trick is the same has to be relatively level or it all just runs off

Another good thing to use for shallow seams is Future.
You can paint it on with a paint brush, let it sit till it dries and then add some more if needed. The only downside is that it has to have a day or two to cure before painting.

Mike

I've started using Bondo Glazing Putty (Red). It can be thinned with acetone for thin seams/lines and the stuff sands really smooth. Its ready to be sanded after about a half hour and you can pick it up at WalMart for $2 or any automotive supply store.

I use Bodo Putty (Red) as well. I love how quickly it can be sanded, doesnt make me start seeing things like Squadron, and is cheap, cheap, cheap. I get mine at Kragen Auto for $3.

After i assemble my parts i use bondo glazing&spot putty, thenafter it dries i wet sand the parts with 400 grit sand paper. I dunno if they still make that brand of putty anymore, becaues ive had mine for a long time and i'm running out and id like to find more.

i have used squadron green putty, ca, whiteout, white glue, thick paint, and future (on some very shallow). i am still looking for the perfect solution.

joe

I use Elmers on shallow stuff and wider stuff I shim it with strips of Styrene of the appropiete size then fill with sqaudron green...only because I just discovered white. I havent modeled in over 10 years so I am playing catch up.

I use TNT , first I put the model together then after hours and hours of cursing and stabbing at the kit with sharp and dull knives and after reaching the conclusion that no matter what I do the seam will not disappear I stuff the kit with TNT and watch the fireworks !!!!! PLEASE DO NOT TRY THIS AT HOME ! - but for real I haven't found the perfect way to fill those seams either , just part of a modelers life I guess

Walt

QUOTE: Originally posted by woodbeck3 I use Elmers on shallow stuff and wider stuff I shim it with strips of Styrene of the appropiete size then fill with sqaudron green...only because I just discovered white. I havent modeled in over 10 years so I am playing catch up.

Elmer's glue? I've been hearing about this rick. can you teach me how?

What if you get (as a result of a bad build; something I'm all too familier with!) one side slightly higher than the other, besides popping it open and re-gluing it? It's a lot to sand down the higher side, but it's a lot to fill the lower side. Or is there no easy answer?

Depends on the seam width and length. If the gap has no backing surface then use super glue. It is the best option. If it looks like a trench use putty, if it is very small use lighter putty like mr surfacer of gunze. If the gap is significant use molten plastic sprue, melt it using excess glue no fire!!!!l if the gap is huge change hobby or buy better kits.lol

Check out this page from the Aircraft Resource Center web site:

http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/TnT_Archives/Filling.htm

Look especially at the "Beginner's guide to fuselage assembling by Steve Wilder." His basic technique is one that I've seen in FSM too: use liquid glue to melt the plastic from each part of the pieces being joined. The plastic then oozes out of the seam and, once dry, the oozed part can be sanded down leaving no visible seam.

Also check out, on the same page, the item, "Filling without sanding." It's another take on the putty and nail polish remover trick that's also posted on Swanny's site.

Regards,