Final Coates and Washes

QUOTE: Using enamels, can I use either enamel or acrylic clears.

Yes. The accepted order of paints is acrylics, enamels, laquers. In other words, acrylics over anything is OK; enamel over laquer is OK. There are exceptions, see below ...

QUOTE: Using acrylics, can I use either enamel or acrylic clears.

If the acrylic is allowed to cure THOROUGHLY, as in 24-48 hours, you can use enamel clearcoat without any problem. I have heard, although I haven't tried it myself, that laquer clear coat will also work OK but the first couple of coats need to misted on very thin and allowed to dry otherwise it will dissolve the acrylic. Acrylic clear coats are no problem, let the paint cure for a day and you should be just fine.

QUOTE: If clear enamel gloss coat used, what is the best wash mixture for panel lines, how long applied for and method of removal of excess.

A lot of people use enamel washes, but I don't. I use either artist's water colors or acrylics. They need to be applied over a very smooth surface (and that probably applies to enamel washes as well). If the surface is flat it is very difficult to get them off again (I repainted a small section of my F-105 Saturday because the acrylic wash wouldn't come off). On a smooth surface, acrylic or water color washes will come off with a lightly moistened Q-Tip.

QUOTE: If clear acrylic gloss coat used, what is the best wash mixture for panel lines, how long applied for and method of removal of excess.

Same as above.

QUOTE: And should clear coats be applied after each step following the initial coat. ie initial coat - panel lines wash - clear coat - decals - clear coat - weathering - final coat.

Each layer of clear coat fills in a little bit of surface detail so that ie becomes a little more difficult to keep panel line washes in shallow panel lines. I usually finish my paint, spray a couple of coats of Future, apply decals and washes, and a final gloss or dull coat. It's usually a good idea to put a thin coat of clear over the decals prior to the washes, but I've not had any problems so I don't.

QUOTE: Sorry guys, but i have read and read and I cant seem to get my head around the concept. "WHAT AN AMATEUR"

Hey, no problem. Give it a few months and you'll be more of an expert than many here.

Just as an additional bit of information, what I usually use for dull coat is Tamiya XF-21 flat base mixed with Future. I mentioned that same thing to another person here and he had a lot of problems with it, but I never have. Try it on some scrap first and make sure it will work for you.

You can adjust the finish by adjusting the proportion of XF-21. Three parts Future to 1 part XF-21 is completely flat. Six parts Future to 1 part XF-21 gives a satin finish.

Thanks Scott, that really helps.

Just another question!

What is Future, would it be readily available in hobby shops, say in Australia, and is it applied via airbrush ie. technique, and if so does it need to be thinned and with what.

Again thanks for the speedy reply.

This has to be by far the best site on the web!!!!!!!

Regards,


Nick

QUOTE: What is Future, would it be readily available in hobby shops, say in Australia, and is it applied via airbrush ie. technique, and if so does it need to be thinned and with what.

Future is a floor polishing acrylic. In Austrailia I think it's called Pledge but some of the Aussie modelers can tell you for sure.

It's available here in most larger groceries and department stores. It's a perfectly clear acrylic and is normally used on floors. It can be brushed or airbrushed and doesn't need thinning to airbrush. There are two "Stickies" at the top of this page entitled "Future FAQ" and "TheComplete Future" that should tell you everything you ever wanted to know about the stuff. I don't know how it works on floors, never tried that, but for models it's great stuff.

QUOTE: This has to be by far the best site on the web!!!!!!!

I agree. The amount of information I have gotten here is amazing. I've gotten more good tips, ideas, and information in the past six months than in the 40 years before

Thanks Scott,

You're worth a million bucks.

Take care mate.

Nick.

QUOTE: You're worth a million bucks.

I WISH! If I were I'd buy us all a few kits