PE Basics

wibhi2

Member since
March 2003
From: Brooklyn

Posted by wibhi2 on Friday, November 19, 2004 7:20 AM

QUOTE: Originally posted by KJ200

The fibreglass pencil is also great for removing paint from areas that need to be glued, both on PE and the model itself.

Karl

That shounds very interesting...thanx for the tip.

3d modelling is an option a true mental excercise in frusrtation

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madmike

Member since
July 2003
From: Perth, Western Australia

Posted by madmike on Friday, November 19, 2004 5:59 AM

Take the whole fret and pass it over a naked flame or gas jet until the fret changes colour. Do not over heat the fret though. This will make the brass more malleable and assist folding and rolling operations for any of the various parts contained on the fret, eg rolling perforated machine gun jackets or folding a bucket seat for a WW2 fighter.

The flame also removes any chemicals or oils allowing the fret to be primed.

:cheers:

Mike

"I do not feel obliged to believe that the same God who has endowed us with sense, reason, and intellect has intended us to forgo their use." - Galileo Galilei

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KJ200

Member since
July 2003
From: Bicester, England

Posted by KJ200 on Friday, November 19, 2004 2:50 AM

I got mine from a model railway shop, for about £4.00 ($7.20), but I'm sure someone like Micromark would sell them in the US.

They are like a propelling pencil, but rather than a lead, they have a small bunch of glass fibres.

Karl

Currently on the bench: AZ Models 1/72 Mig 17PF

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, November 18, 2004 12:49 PM

A fiberglass pencil, that's a new one, where would you get that?

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KJ200

Member since
July 2003
From: Bicester, England

Posted by KJ200 on Thursday, November 18, 2004 6:41 AM

I always was PE in soapy water, along with the rest of the kit and any other AM parts, though obviously not the AM decals!!!!! Took me a while to learn that one!! And that appears to be fine.

I also prepare the PE by rubbing it with a fibreglass pencil. This gently abrades the surface, leaving it nicely keyed for painting. Even acrylics adhere to this without any problems.

The fibreglass pencil is also great for removing paint from areas that need to be glued, both on PE and the model itself.

Karl

Currently on the bench: AZ Models 1/72 Mig 17PF

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, November 16, 2004 1:23 AM

QUOTE: Originally posted by tho9900

the paint store thinner should work fine on the PE but test any plastic on scrap before using it... I think it is not as kind to plastic as laquer thinner, which isn't a nice player itself if you're not careful...

oh yes, feareth not tom, i know exactly how un-nice a player paint store laquer thinner can be *shudders thinking about tamiya enzo chassis* but i guess for metal it ought to be ok, right ?

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 15, 2004 7:31 PM

For cutting PE
I use a nice set of fine wire cutters and cut in a bowl of water under the surface.
the small part will sink where it can be tweezed out.
Small pieces I cant seem to grab with tweezers underwater, I just pour the water thru an old t-shirt to retrieve the part.
I even save the water for the next cut by filtering thru the shirt into another bowl.

The problem with this method is I can now hear the growling stomach of the carpet monster. He's not getting enough parts to eat.

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tho9900

Member since
July 2004
From: SETX. USA

Posted by tho9900 on Monday, November 15, 2004 6:22 PM

the paint store thinner should work fine on the PE but test any plastic on scrap before using it... I think it is not as kind to plastic as laquer thinner, which isn't a nice player itself if you're not careful...

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!

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wibhi2

Member since
March 2003
From: Brooklyn

Posted by wibhi2 on Monday, November 15, 2004 1:15 PM

QUOTE: Originally posted by reggiethedorf

laquer thinner meaning paint store thinner ?

That should work as well, but there is a difference.

3d modelling is an option a true mental excercise in frusrtation

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, November 15, 2004 4:12 AM

laquer thinner meaning paint store thinner ?

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Bandha Boy

Member since
September 2004
From: Australia

Posted by Bandha Boy on Monday, November 15, 2004 3:17 AM

Tweety - where do you get Isoprop in Oz? Are you able to buy it in bulk & is there a brand that is easy to chase down?

Carl

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wibhi2

Member since
March 2003
From: Brooklyn

Posted by wibhi2 on Sunday, November 14, 2004 9:26 PM

You should soak PE in laquer thinner prior to doing anything (removes the photo solution residue), then a light sanding with 600 grit should solve all your paint adhesion issues.
Never had a problem with enamels or acrylics.

3d modelling is an option a true mental excercise in frusrtation

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tho9900

Member since
July 2004
From: SETX. USA

Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, November 14, 2004 8:13 PM

yeah it's Isopropyl alcohol... the wipes should work, just be careful about fibers.. they would be easy to get off, but check to make sure...

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 14, 2004 7:02 PM

whats lso? isopropanol ? will surgical wipes do the job ?

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 14, 2004 6:28 PM

When I first started using PE sets, the only tools I had were a Pair of LaCross tweezers two difernt sizes, one is small and pointy, the second is pointy and bent, for the hard to glue aereas. Plus a set of small of small pliers similar to the ones jewlers use, oh yeah an exacto knife wit a sharp #11 blade.I also learned a techniqe from one the members of the model club I belong to. It is this use double sided carpet tape on yuor work bench, then place the PE fret with part that you are going to remove from the sprue, and there you have it no more ducking for cover as the part heads for the great beyond,ie the carpet. This works well with plastic parts also.

Cheera and happy modeling

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tweety1

Member since
August 2003
From: Alice Springs Australia

Posted by tweety1 on Sunday, November 14, 2004 9:23 AM

I use acrylicds 99.9% of the time, and to help with adhesion to the PE parts, I give the part a nice wipe over with some Iso, then a light sanding with a fine grit sandpaper, just enough to lightly scratch the surface.
Work in a circular motion if you can, this helps to hide the scratching.
Then another wipe over with Iso, and she's good to go to the paint booth.

Just remember to prepare things like PE flaps etc off the model.
It's easier for a start, and allows you to paint the part in all it's nooks and crannies before attaching to the model.

--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???

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tlivancso

Member since
February 2004
From: Connecticut, East of the River

Posted by tlivancso on Sunday, November 14, 2004 8:48 AM

Here is a site that has some good information on it, and helped me when I first started using PE.

http://s96920072.onlinehome.us/TnT_Archives/Photo_Etch.htm

HTH
Cheers
Thom

IPMS Member #42958 / AMPS Member #2091

IPMS Central Connecticut (President)

IPMS Northeast Military Modelers Association (Web Master)

Like Alice "I try to believe in three impossible things before breakfast"

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tho9900

Member since
July 2004
From: SETX. USA

Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, November 14, 2004 8:09 AM

QUOTE: Originally posted by reggiethedorf

how do you guys prep PE for paint ? im using acrylics.

well see that's what I was using then realized immediately Acylic doesn't stick to PE... (I wasnt happy with that even though I should have figured as much) so I use enamels for the PE... it's not bad since the main bits of PE are flat black, red, steel/aluminum etc... I already have them but if you didnt it wouldnt be a lot of paints to buy...

crocket recommended roughing up the surface... something like a finishing sandpaper would probably work just fine..

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, November 14, 2004 7:52 AM

how do you guys prep PE for paint ? im using acrylics.

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tweety1

Member since
August 2003
From: Alice Springs Australia

Posted by tweety1 on Saturday, November 13, 2004 10:55 PM

I'm with tho9900 on this one.
The 2D look can take away from an otherwise awesome looking model.

I found to counter the 2D look, when painting just pile alot of paint onto the item, say a throttle lever.
Use your judgement for this, cause a throttle handl will be larger then the stem it is attched to!

--Sean-- If you are driving at the speed of light and you turn on the headlights, what happens???

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tho9900

Member since
July 2004
From: SETX. USA

Posted by tho9900 on Saturday, November 13, 2004 9:41 AM

I've only used PE a couple of times but didn't wash it before.. the external PE gets washed int he final steps for painting... just be vewwy vewwy careful because if it's not CA'd down good it will come off if you handle it too much while washing...

for the interior I paint the pieces before putting them in... it's a lot easier. sometimes I might have to touch up a little but it's easier than trying to paint a turnbuckle almost under a co-pilot seat etc....

oh, and sometimes I find some of the PE doesn't look quite to scale or makes the cockpit look too "busy" use your own judgement when using PE, if you dont like something there's no rule you have to put it in. (example some throttle levers tend to look 2D when you use them from the PE so I tend to stay away from them if it makes the model look more like a toy because of it...)

---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!

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Bandha Boy

Member since
September 2004
From: Australia

Posted by Bandha Boy on Saturday, November 13, 2004 2:29 AM

Do you guys wash the PE beforehand? I'm wondering if there's any point washing it in a thinner or similar (plastic prep solution?) , is there a danger of this causing corrosion?

Carl

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, July 21, 2004 11:28 PM

I am gaining confidence. Thanks for all the input!

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F105-Thud

Member since
April 2003
From: Swindon, UK

Posted by F105-Thud on Wednesday, July 21, 2004 2:40 PM

I got fed up with changing blades on my knife cutting PE, so I bought some Xuron PE cutters to do the job, and they work just fine. I also use the Hold and fold, Etchmate and H & F bending kit to get PE to the shapes I need. A good pair of sharp tweezers and pliers will also come in handy.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Tuesday, July 20, 2004 8:20 AM

I recall an article or tip mentioned regarding PE cutting from the fret. Usually the PE comes in a plastic bag. Keep the PE in the bag and cut through the bag and piece (I use a cutting pad on my worksurface-unlike glass it doesn't dull the blades as fast, but the PE will dull it anyway, so...). This will keep the PE piece in the bag and it won't fly off. I first tried this on some US air seatbelts. It worked like a charm. Don't be afraid to move the parts to another plastic bag (Ziploc) if it doesn't work in the original packaging. I had to do this for some fenders for an M4. It works great.
Dmod :)

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crockett

Member since
April 2004
From: The cornfields of Ohio

Posted by crockett on Monday, July 19, 2004 3:31 PM

Some PE is stainless and is very hard to cut. For both stainless and brass PE a few passes over a candle flame will anneal the tree and part and it will cut and bend like butter, a little butane torch is perfect for this. On parts that are larger, it is also a good idea to rough up the surface a bit so paint will stick (especially acrylics).

Tigers no Lions, no Bears...OH MY

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Monday, July 19, 2004 2:08 PM

I use an old piece of glass from an old 4x7 picture frame and a number 4 blade. The glass provides a strong backing. So when you push the blade straight down and cut the piece it won't bend in the process.

I also put a piece of either regular tape or 2 sided tape on the glass so the piece won't go flying off after it is cut off the sheet.

Good luck and hope this helped

Paul

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 16, 2004 9:35 PM

I use an older pair of fly tying scissors to remove my parts from the PE tree. (I sharpened them out in the shop in the bench grinder) If you use scissors, I recommend you cut well away from the part when removing from the tree then trim off the excess. Use onyan tape trick or there is a good chance that if your scissors don't shear the part cleanly, it will twist off and go flying.

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Anonymous

Member since
November 2005

Posted by Anonymous on Friday, July 16, 2004 4:12 PM

I just thought of a great idea for folding PE. Can I use the metal part of a floppy disk to hold down the part while I use an X-acto blade to fold it up?

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