What type of filler should I try next?

I prefere Mr. Surfacer to the Squadrons. I haven't tried milliput or Revell fillers.

Glenn, I already use Gunze paints, but hadn't thought aboput using Mr Surfacer.

What's it like?

Karl

Squadron is the old standby for me, although I prefer the White. I also like the Gunze Mr.Putty, but I haven't much experience with it.

For really small stuff Mr.Surfacer is unparalleled.

Regular automotive spot putty works great as well; it comes in tubes which are much larger than a tube of specialty modeling filler, is pretty much the same stuff as Squadron, and is a helluvalot cheaper in the long run.

Many two-part automotive putties also work well.


Fade to Black...

I'm with you guys I can't stand squadron green stuff.. it is the suxors....., not only that but with the white stuff you can mix in a little bit of paint to get a somewhat similar color as your subject.

having tried numerous brands.....i'm still always looking for something better.......& i stumbled across this stuff called Stucco (yellow and blue tube) from Italy.......it's smooth and fine like Squadron White but, it's like a neutral grey in colour, little shrinkage and seems to bite the plastic a little better......
works good, lasts a long time....imo

Have you ever tried melting sprue in liquid glue? After the glue flashes off, your working with plastic.

I'd say try as many as you can get your hands on and decide for yourself.
Personally, I prefer Tamiya Polyester Putty and Tamiya Epoxy Putty.

Wayne, everytime i go to use putty, I always ask myself, why am i not trying glue and sprue technique......

You know what though, I have a spot on this Walker Bulldog that is "out of the way of the line of sight" and I am going to try it and see how it works.
If it works out right.. i might even "Flick my brush and see how it splatters on the side of my tank and see if it acts like mud spots and then paint the mud spots....

For very small areas I just use Zap-A -Gap superglue - as soon as it dries just file away

I've used squadron, white and green, for years. Recently, I've used thick super glue for those small spots. Frankly, they've been easier for me to get.

I'm fairly new to the forum. Great topic. I found some stuff called Acryl Blue, yes it's blue and you can get it at automotive stores. I goes on very smooth, no shrinkage and the tube is HUGE! Need proper ventalation as it has an odor.

How do you apply your filler?

I'd always heard horror stories about Squadron shrinking, etc so I have never even tried it. When I got back into modeling a few years ago I kept reading about Evercoat Euro-soft 2-part automotive putty. I picked some up and tried it out. It worked great but it ended up drying out before a used even a fraction of it. Lately I've been using Bondo Glazing and Spot Putty. I like it because you don't have to mix anything together. I do run into pinholes with it once in a while but overall I'm very happy with how it works.

Ray

I use Dr. Microtool's "Supreme Model Putty". This won't help you much as they went out of business years ago. I bought a case as soon as I knew they were going under. Dr. Microtool is the best hobby putty I've ever tried! I still use Squadron green & white from time to time. I personally don't see any difference in the preformance of the two colors. Bondo spot putty because it's cheap and works pretty good. CA, thin with baking soda or the thick kind stratight. White-Out for fine scratches and my own Sprue Goo putty made of clear styrene plastic silverware dissolved in M.E.K.
I would say try as many putties as you can and don't try to find the best. See what each excels at and add it to your bag of tricks.

I use Squardon white and here's a trick that I haven't heard mentioned here yet.

I apply tape to either side of the seam that I'm going to fill with putty. I place the tape as close to the seam as I can and burnish it down. I apply the putty and immediately go over the putty and seam with a q-tip dabbed in nail polish remover (currently using the non-acetone based stuff).

The nail polish remover removes excess putty and leaves the seam filled nice and flush. The tape prevents excessive amounts up putty being applied where it doesn't need to be. When you're finished, there's minimal sanding required (usually 600 grit wet then dry) and you lose very little of your surrounding detail (rivets, access panels, raised lines, recessed lines, whatever)

I use Aves Sculpt and miliput. Both can be mixed with you hands, non toxic, great stuff. I get the miliput from micromark.cor and the Aves Sculpt from avesstudio.com. Aves studio can can give you the closest source where you can buy Aves Sculpt.
Happy modeling. Bart Bartholomew

I use Tamiya putty almost exclusively, and just started using Auto 2 part Putty, or Bog as we call it here.

So far so good, gonna try a product called Kar-Glass soon.
Same as your normal bog, but is inlaid with Fiberglass, planning on using it to strengthen resin kits etc.