Polishing clear plastic!!! HELP!!!!!!!!!

Littlemoe, if you have fine scratches left from the Novus polish, use "The Treatment" wax, which you can get at any hobby shop, that should get rid of them.
Lee

micromesh is the ultimate polishing system for plastic/metals, its a cushioned abrasive, like a cloth that when used as wet sand, produces excellent results.

check out https://www.micro-surface.com/default.cfm?page_id=1

that will give you the low down, i think you will all be impressed.
They have a convenient hooby kit available, which has all you need.
Ive tried it on a car kit to see how it looks on a painted surface, damn, if you want the model cars to shine, this is the ticket.

i start out using 1500 dry, then i go through 7grades up to the final 12000 grit.
its also great for 'thinning' out the jam jar effect on some canopies, just fill them with bluetack or plastacine for doing the outside (stops the dreaded cracking), and then impress the canopy in the same manner to do the inside.

ive used it for over 8 years now, i still have the original 2"x 4" 12000 piece!!!
for aicraft modellers, if you like to have canopies down, this method is the key to showing off youre fancy cockpit work, it also doubles to polish the wifes rings and jewellry;)

Have fun, P.S if want to see youre model buddies have a freak out, while he is building, grab one of his canopies, to have a 'look' . pretend to drop it on the floor. He will quickly proceed to have a look for it, but he didnt see the one you brought from home, which is the the one that is really on the deck.Now you can offer youre help top find the precious piece of plastic, but watch the look on his face when you step on the strategically placed old one!!!![:0]

whatis MicroMesh????

1 word: dollarstore

I have to admit a lot of people go to a lot of effort to get exceptional results - but I've found that 2000 wet and dry sandpaper (soaked in water for 24hrs before use), then a polish with Brasso paste (in the tube) followed by a dip in Future usually cleans up ANY scratches. Plus, it's cheaper and easier than scratch removal kits - not that I think they're not worth the money - I've seen some people do amazing things with them. I've just never tried them.

Micro Mesh!
Micro Mesh!
Micro Mesh!
Micro Mesh!

I swear by this stuff, flexible, durable comes in grades from 1500 to 12000 grit
i use it on aircraft canopies, ive also got the cd scratch removal kit, it rocks too.
it can be pricey but its worth every penny.
100% reccommended

Don't rub in one direction!. Make small figure eight's with your finger/cloth, that's how we polish out imperfections on Aircraft transparencies. That way you don't create lines or ridges in the plastic.
Good luck

QUOTE: Originally posted by littlemoe George, is that polish available in the USA???? Is there a internet site i can order from???

Yes, it most certainly is... SuperMarket stuff and pretty cheap at that. Costs only 6 or 7 US$/Euros. You can find many sites you can order from, just go to Google.com then type "Duraglit polish wadding" in the seach field.

Keep up the good work with that Mythos (Greek word, meaning "Legend", BTW)...

Thanks for your help guys!!!!!!!

George, is that polish available in the USA???? Is there a internet site i can order from???


Here are some pics of the Mythos in progress........ The body is now painted, but i lent my dig camera to my sis in law for her senior project, so those pics will come soon......
http://www.picturetrail.com/gallery/view?p=999&uid=1033598&gid=1932614&

thanks again....

Hi Ron,

I'd suggest that you start from scratch. So here's what you have to do:

1. As djmodels1999 has already suggested, if (and only IF) the scratches are deep, start with some fine sandpaper (1000), then go over that with finer and finer grades, upto 1600. You should by all means use WET sandpaper in this whole process.

2. Now, go out and get some DURAGLIT Silver Polish Wadding (blue box). It's the best polishing compound that I've ever used on clear parts (I, personally, ALWAYS polish clear parts, no matter whether they're scratched or not) and it works really fast (maybe 4 or 5 times faster than any other brand I've ever used, like, say, Gunze Sangyo's Mr. Rubbing Compound 1000). Also, make sure that you wipe the parts at intervals using a clean soft cotton tissue. Repeat until you are completely satisfied with the results. Don't worry, it'll take less time than you think.... When you're set make sure that there are no lints left on the part.

3. Prepare the necessary volume of Future (diluted with 10-20% of window cleaner) so as for you to be able to dip the whole part into it. Then use a fine pliers to hold the clear part at an angle and let Future drip completely, helping the whole process by lightly touching the lowest end of the said part with a paper towel, where dripping Future will be accumulated. Just make sure that, in the end, no excess Future remains on the lowest part of the windshield...

4. Let the clear part dry covered for 24 to 48 hours, and ...be stunned!!! Wow, is this Ferrari Mythos' windshield made of fine Bohemia crystal, or what?

I hope I've helped...

I actually have used a very fine sand paper... then use a rubbing compound... buff relentlessly... then dip in some Future acrylic wash. Worked well on a aircraft cockpit.

Never used this product, Ron... My way of removing small scratches is to rub toothpaste onto the damaged area. It's not an 'instant' fixer, though, as it can take a little while to get all the scratches removed. Use a very fine and smooth cloth too!

Also, if the scratches are deep, start with some fine sndpaper (1000), then go over that with finer and finer grades, then finish the process with the toothpaste.