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Squadron Putty

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  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Pensacola, FL
Squadron Putty
Posted by Foster7155 on Saturday, August 7, 2004 7:47 AM
Hey all,

I haven't seen anyone else mention this particular technique, so I figured I would share my experience.

Has anyone else had this experience with Squadron Green or White putty? You have a fairly large gap or area and after putting on the putty you realize that the plastic is severely melted and the area looks much worse than it would have without the putty at all.

Squadron Putty uses Toluene as a solvent - an extremely harsh chemical that can react quite violently with many plastics. This is particularly true if the putty is applied thickly and the toluene does not have the ability to rapidly evaporate.

TIP:

There have been articles in the past that mention diluting Squadon Putty with Acetone. This is also a rather harsh chemical that will react with plastic. I have found that Squadron Putty can be thinned with plain denatured alcohol.

I normally use a old, cleaned out, square Testors paint bottle. I'll squirt about 1/3 of a bottle of putty into the bottom and about another 1/3 with denatured alcohol. I use a toothpick to gently mix the components together until they form a paste with a consistency something like pancake batter or mixed plaster of paris. If the mixture is too thin, I add a bit of putty and if too thick, a few drops of alcohol.

With the cap in place this thinned putty can be stored for many months without a problem. If the putty starts to set up a little, a few drops of alcohol will bring it right back.

I've discovered that thinning the putty like this has three distinct effects. First, the alcohol dilutes the toluene solvent and makes the putty much less reactive to plastics. This is very nice if you are concerned with the plastic pitting, warping, or otherwise reacting to the putty. Second, the thinned putty will flow into gaps and recesses much better than before. This helps to avoid the air bubbles that can form with thick putty. Third, if applied in thin coats, the drying time does not appear to be much more than the basic putty. Note that I've said thin coats. As with straight Squadron Putty, if you put it on too thick, it will take forever to dry.

I've used Squadron Green Putty thinned like this to fill gaps between ill-fitting parts, fill ejector pin holes, and simulate a thin mud on armor projects. I've also added some ballast or sand and static grass to the thinned putty to make thicker and fairly realistic clumpy mud.

I hope you'll consider using this technique the next time that thick Squadron Puttly just doesn't seem right. Maybe my "thinned" version will be just what you need.

Enjoy your modeling...

Robert Foster

Pensacola Modeleers

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Saturday, August 7, 2004 10:49 AM
Thanks for the tip Foster7155. I've never heard of using denatured alcohol. Where do you get your DA? Do you think IPA will work also? I always thin Squadron putty with lacquer thinner. I rarely use it at full strength.

  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Pensacola, FL
Posted by Foster7155 on Saturday, August 7, 2004 10:54 AM
I get one quart cans of denatured alcohol in the paint section at Walmart. I would think that IPA might work. Give it a shot.

Enjoy your modeling...

Robert Foster

Pensacola Modeleers

  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Sunday, August 8, 2004 6:47 AM
Robert, that's a great idea and one that I will certainly try. Putty that will flow and fill areas is something that I can use all the time. Thanks for passing that along, I'll put it to good use.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    December 2012
Posted by FreedomEagle1953 on Sunday, August 8, 2004 6:05 PM
Hi ya Foster7155 ...

Thanks for the DA tip for thinning Squadron putty ... sounds like a winner ... I'll be mixing up a batch and trying it soon ... thanks again ... Smile,Wink, & Grin [swg]

FreedomEagle1953

Chicago, IL area

"keep on building 'em ... but don't glue your fingers together"

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Monday, August 9, 2004 12:48 AM
Good tip, thanks Robert.
  • Member since
    August 2004
  • From: calgary
Posted by toomanyslurpees on Monday, August 9, 2004 5:46 PM
I've had the thought cross my mind that maybe that effect of your putty (or like I learned starting out gobs of that testors glue in the tubes putting in nose weight) could be used to replicate the wavy type effect that you see in the skin of some aircraft, like I've often see on B-52s, you know, when the alluminum looks like sand on a windy beach. has anyone tried that effect? there's probably an easier way though.
  • Member since
    September 2004
  • From: Australia
Posted by Bandha Boy on Thursday, October 7, 2004 4:09 AM
Primer is basically suspended putty, so it might be worth experimenting with mixing a primer & a putty with the same type of solvents.
Carl
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Saturday, October 9, 2004 2:42 PM
that's a brilliant idea...! I tend to waste putty because no matter if the top is secured right or not, typically if I haven't used it for awhile the first 1/8" or so is a little too stiff to work well with... I can just thin it and let it flow! And I think it might work better on some issues with my current build than what I was thinking of doing...

Thanks!!!
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Saturday, October 9, 2004 6:37 PM
Robert, I've been meaning to hunt this topic down and mention that I did give your idea a try and it works like a charm. The Phantom I'm building has some ejector pin marks that would be very difficult to sand if I over puttied them. There are also a couple of places where PE took the place of factory parts and required some filling. I used your idea on those and it worked beautifully since I could easily control how much I dribbled in the areas.

Thanks! My hat's off to you for coming up with that one.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, October 10, 2004 7:52 AM
same here, I was working on my AV-8B last night and on the outboard gear I found gaps that were going to show, so I did it! went on real smooth! No more fighting a race to get it into the gap before it starts hardening...
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 10, 2004 5:42 PM
whats IPA ?
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: USA
Posted by MusicCity on Sunday, October 10, 2004 6:18 PM
QUOTE: whats IPA ?

IsoPropyl Alcohol, or plain old rubbing alcohol.
Scott Craig -- Nashville, TN -- My Website -- My Models Page
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, October 10, 2004 7:13 PM
I used the Isopropyl and it worked pretty good but I want to try the denatured alcohol this week.

From mix to putting it on the model was fine, but if there was a spot that needed a tiny dab more it seems any left had already started to solidify and turn to 'coffee grounds'. There wasn't a lot of time to work with it either. Maybe it didn't thin quite enough to give it more time to play with. If denatured gives me the same results that's fine.. it still works great so far!!!
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, October 14, 2004 11:46 AM
hey does anyone know if this can be done with revell plasto putty?
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Pensacola, FL
Posted by Foster7155 on Thursday, October 14, 2004 3:35 PM
QUOTE: Originally posted by tho9900

I used the Isopropyl and it worked pretty good but I want to try the denatured alcohol this week.

From mix to putting it on the model was fine, but if there was a spot that needed a tiny dab more it seems any left had already started to solidify and turn to 'coffee grounds'. There wasn't a lot of time to work with it either. Maybe it didn't thin quite enough to give it more time to play with. If denatured gives me the same results that's fine.. it still works great so far!!!


I think you probably have it mixed about right. The surface of the putty still tends to stiffen up pretty quickly (within about 2 to 3 minutes) even being diluted. I've found that I'd rather just let it dry for a few hours before adding a bit more (particularly on large areas) than try to get it all perfectly filled the first time. Your analogy with "coffee grounds" brought a smile to my face. It does kind of look like wet coffee grounds, doesn't it? Smile [:)]

As I mentioned in my original post, the biggest advantage for me is the dilution of the Toluene. It still will affect really thin parts, but it doesn't seem to "etch" thicker plastic parts nearly as much as straight putty.

I'm glad that both you and MusicCity have had a positive experience with my tip. I'm also glad that I could help.

Enjoy your modeling...

Robert Foster

Pensacola Modeleers

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 17, 2004 8:14 AM
hey can some one tell me if methylated spirits is dentaured alcohol? on the label it says denured ethanol 96%

cheers!!
  • Member since
    July 2004
  • From: SETX. USA
Posted by tho9900 on Sunday, October 17, 2004 8:38 AM
that should be it! as long as that is the only ingredient!
---Tom--- O' brave new world, That has such people in it!
  • Member since
    July 2003
  • From: Pensacola, FL
Posted by Foster7155 on Sunday, October 17, 2004 8:41 AM
Yes,

Ethanol is also known as grain alcohol (methylated spirits) or denatured alcohol. However, unless it's 100% ethanol it is usually not suitable for consumption. Ethanol is not the same as isopropyl alcohol. Even though it is commonly known as "rubbing alcohol", isopropyl alchohol is poisonous and can in fact cause adverse reactions through skin absorption or inhalation, but usually only in high exposure.

Enjoy your modeling...

Robert Foster

Pensacola Modeleers

  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Sunday, October 17, 2004 9:46 AM
so i cant drink this stuff coz its only 96%?? but it smells so good!!! ;)

thanks everyone,, and thanks for the tip mate!!
  • Member since
    January 2004
  • From: Philomath, OR, USA
Posted by knight667 on Friday, November 19, 2004 4:10 PM
I just wanted to say that I've recently tried this technique on a couple kits now and I'll probably never go back to using putty the "normal" way! The results are astounding, and the lack of etching on the plastic is a major help. I'm using denatured alcohol (had to have a pharmacist friend order it for me) and Squadron white, and it works like a charm. I highly recommend trying this out!
John "The only easy day was yesterday." - US Navy SEALs "Improvise. Adapt. Overcome." - US Marine Corp. "I live each day/Like it's my last/...I never look back" - from "I'm A Rocker" by Judas Priest
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Wednesday, December 8, 2004 12:59 PM
Concerning "denatured alcohol": This stuff is mostly ethanol, BUT the denaturing agent is a nasty chemical (usually 2-buthanone and/or pyridine) that makes you puke PDQ (not just after taking a "healthy swill"), sometimes it is methanol, this is outright toxic (if swallowed): You could easily become blind after the ingestion. The reason behind denaturing is taxation: Otherwise everybody would buy dirt-cheap DA and have a party.

You can't get 100% pure ethanol "outside a lab", because ethanol "happily" forms a stable mixture with 4% water. To remove the water, special methods are needed.

Rubbing alcohol (isopropanol) is also a good thinner, but it has a higher boiling temperature and thus a lesser vapor pressure, so ethanol dries quicker. Isopropanol is just slightly more toxic than ethanol, but it will give you a serious head-ache and no real "high". The "lighter" alcohols all work as skin defatting agents, but not as agressively as mineral spirits or benzene or tolouene etc.

HTH and greetings from Germany

Jan Teipel
(far on his way to become a chemistry major)
  • Member since
    November 2005
Posted by Anonymous on Thursday, December 9, 2004 2:04 PM
I don't know if anyone else has tried this but I sometimes by the large cans of primer from the auto section of the store, then take them home and using a very small punch I set a small hole at the top of the can and bleed out the propellant. After that I use a can opener and open the can and transfer the contents to a baby food jar and use it on my models as the primer reverts back to a creamy putty once it is out of the can.
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