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Enamels and washing

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  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Enamels and washing
Posted by SeaBee on Wednesday, September 1, 2004 10:06 AM
This is a real silly question, but I tend to do thing a different way around...

I usually wash with acrylics after sealing with laquers and cleaning up with an acrylic thinner, thus no damage by the thinning agent on the sealing layer.

I have the perfect colour, but it's an enamel and I want to wash with that... what do I seal with and what do I use to remove the excess paint from the wash with? Or is there no way this can be done without damaging the sealing layer when working with stuff strong enough to thin enamels?

Or will it be better to try and find an acrylic that will do the job?
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State
Posted by rjkplasticmod on Wednesday, September 1, 2004 11:04 AM
If the lacquer topcoat has completely cured, you should be able to use an enamel wash with no problem. Just be sure you use it as a wash & don't start scrubbing it on.

Regards, Rick
RICK At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Thursday, September 2, 2004 8:59 AM
Okay, thanks!

But what do you use as thinning agent for enamels? (That's my biggest prob) I don't work with enamels much, so it might be wrong, but it hasn't killed me yet... I use the ominously named (for this exercise, at least) Lacquer thinners. It sounds as if that will damage the laquer layer, even if properly cured.

I usually "clean off" some of the wash with thinning agent, just to clarify the reasoning behind my question.
  • Member since
    February 2003
  • From: A Spartan in the Wolverine State
Posted by rjkplasticmod on Thursday, September 2, 2004 6:52 PM
You can use Mineral Spirits or even Turpentine as a thinner for enamel. Most Hardwares have thinners for enamels, or Art Stores sell higher grade thinners intended for Oils. I wouldn't use lacquer thinner for thinning enamel paint as you may get a bad chemical reaction or the laquer thinner will make your wash too "hot" & may damage the base coat

Regards, Rick.
RICK At My Age, I've Seen It All, Done It All, But I Don't Remember It All...
  • Member since
    March 2004
  • From: Paarl, South Africa
Posted by SeaBee on Friday, September 3, 2004 4:35 AM
Great stuff, will try that rather! Thanks Rick!
  • Member since
    February 2004
  • From: Portugal
Posted by Loureiro on Sunday, September 5, 2004 12:18 PM
According ot my experience (I know it's wrong to just distinguish between acrylics and enamels...), I don't usually do enamel washes or oil washes when I've painted the base colour with an oil-based paint...As much as a person doesn't want to be scrubbing around, a mistake can happen and if you're a perfectionist, eventually you'll end up going through the protective layer...
Generally I use oil colours for washes, mixed with turpentine (not exactly a nice and delicate thinner). Between the base coat and the washes, I usually spray an acrylic matt varnish, or better...a water-based matt varnish (I'm considering Vallejo acrylics as they guarantee at their website, nothing gets through it, even turpentine). For correcting washes ( clean up when the wash goes to the wrong place) I use cotton swabs soaked in turpentine (oil washes)..Once my base coat is protected with a water based matt varnish I can go around and scrubb pretty much as I want...

Take care.Cool [8D]
  • Member since
    March 2003
  • From: Brooklyn
Posted by wibhi2 on Thursday, September 9, 2004 3:30 PM
When I work with enamels or oils (which is all the time) I'll seal the base coat with future
(2-3 coats) before applying an enamel/oil wash. Then I'll wipe the wash with turps after about 12 hours drying time. Let the future cure for a minimum of 24 hours after appling the last coat - I have yet to aggresively go through the future to the base coat.
3d modelling is an option a true mental excercise in frusrtation
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