Making windows w/Testors clear parts glue...?

Ive used the testors for windows in the side of the fuselage of a 1/72 Breuget Br-2 it came out real good.
Bruce

QUOTE: Originally posted by djmodels1999 Thanks, much better! Gonna have to try that! What made you think of doing that!?

I did the inside of of an ME262 in foil once, just the gear area, I didn't have any BMF and the LHS was out so I used kitchen foil and white glue for the small area I had to do.(turned out nice too)
Anyway I noticed that the glue spread out over the small openings for the gear.
I had to cut the foil out in that area to open up the mounts and noticed such a nice window over the opening it tickled my ingenuity.
So I tried it.

Thanks, much better! Gonna have to try that! What made you think of doing that!?

QUOTE: Originally posted by djmodels1999 lroc, this sounds really intriguing but I have trouble following you... Could you go over that again?

Sure, I wrote that quickly from work yesterday...so I'll clearify.

I used this on an Academy B-24 last week, that was missing a window.

Take a piece of kitchen foil larger that the window....much larger.
turn it over dull side up and spread white glue on it, just bead it on then smear it around to cover the foil. you want to leave a layer that you can see ...don't smear it so thin you can see thru it.

Then place it over the window, now use a tooth pick, or a piece of spru to burnish it down, just like you would BMF.
the glue will pool up under the foil and you can "push" it out from under the edges of the foil...but you want to push it into the window opening.

What you should end up with is a piece of foil with just enough glue under it to hold it to the model, with the pushed out glue filling the window space.

smooth the glue,in the window area, flush from the inside and set it aside level so the glue doesn't get flowing around and get uneven before it dries.
Let it dry about 24 hours.
Now if you burnished the foil down real good, air wasnt able to get in and the thin layer of glue holding it down won't be compleatly dry, but the glue in the window will be because air could get to it.

Gently peel the foil off, the glue in the window will have formed a nice smooth clear "glass" window from the outside.
If any glue is left outside around the window where the foil was. gently clean it off with a wet Q-tip and set it aside to dry somemore.


Better?

QUOTE: Originally posted by styrene Forgive my ignorance, but it seems it would be easier to take a small piece of clear acetate (like a document protector) and cut a piece to fit. At least you don't run into the problems of varying thicknesses associated with trying to get some goo in an opening--unless the opening is miniscule.... Gip Winecoff

Duh! Don't know why I didn't think of that. Thanks, I'll give it a shot!!

lroc, this sounds really intriguing but I have trouble following you... Could you go over that again?

Forgive my ignorance, but it seems it would be easier to take a small piece of clear acetate (like a document protector) and cut a piece to fit. At least you don't run into the problems of varying thicknesses associated with trying to get some goo in an opening--unless the opening is miniscule....
BTW, KrytalKleer is great stuff. I've used it for small headlight lenses, rangefinders and sights for artillery pieces, and am fixing to use it for bridge windows on a 1/350 ship model.

Gip Winecoff

Try this
take a piece of kitchen foil.
add white glue or testers window glue, to the back of it and burnish it down around the window opening.
Now use a smooth piece of spru, or a toothpick and push the glue under the foil, to the window opening.
from the back, inside the car body, smooth the glue out then set it aside on a flat surface, foil side down, till it dries.
After about 24 hrs, slowly peel the foil off and you should have a window.

I've never done it using Testors, but I have done it using Micro Kristal Klear, which is a similar product. Results depends a lot on the size of the opening you're attempting to glaze. Works best on smaller openings, the larger the opening the more the difficulty. Basically, you put a large amount of the glue on a brush or toothpick and then put the blob of glue into the opening, working from edge to edge. If you do it right, when you withdraw the brush the glue will have filled the opening. As it dries, it will dry clear and give a fair representation of glass. Requires some practice, but if you don't like the result it's easy to remove with water.

Regards, Rick

There are several liquid products available to represent windows but all the ones I've tried can only do small ones, say 1/72 Jeep wind-shields, or airliners windows. The best I've ever found is actually not (yet!) marketed for modelers, it's ROSS's gel glue (blue tinted) sold in Walmart. It dries very thin and extremely transparent.

I'd be interested in hearing of someone who's done it too... I've seen it on the bottle but wasn't sure what the outcome would look like... I ididnt wan to waste half a bottle trying...